For centuries before the dominance of wristwatches, pocket watches were the ultimate symbol of sophistication, status, and technological advancement. They can be traced back to the 16th century, when the development of spring-driven movements allowed for the creation of smaller, portable timepieces. The first truly portable timepiece was the Nuremberg Egg, a small, drum-shaped clock developed in the early 16th century. These early timepieces, often worn on a chain around the neck or carried in a pocket, are considered precursors to modern watches. Unfortunately, they were bulky, inaccurate, and more decorative than functional.
By the 17th and 18th centuries, pocket watches had evolved significantly. Advancements in horology, like Christiaan Huygens’s invention of the balance spring (or hairspring) in 1675, significantly improved their accuracy. During this period, pocket watches became more refined, with smaller cases, glass-covered dials, and intricate engravings. They soon became coveted accessories among European nobility and the rising merchant class. Owning a pocket watch was a sign of wealth, education, and social standing. They were often passed down as family heirlooms.
Fueled by the Industrial Revolution and the subsequent rise of precision manufacturing, the 19th century marked the golden age of pocket watches. Companies like Waltham, Elgin, and Hamilton in the United States, as well as Swiss brands like Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe, pioneered mass production techniques, making high-quality timepieces more accessible to the middle class. However, one of the most significant applications of pocket watches at this time was in the railroad industry. Trains were becoming the backbone of the transportation and commerce industry. It was extremely important that they run on time and that the timekeeping method was precise and accurate.
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Unfortunately, the mass production pocket watches of the time were not up to the task. The infamous Great Kipton Train Wreck of 1891, caused by a faulty pocket watch, led to the implementation of “railroad-grade” watches, which had to meet strict precision standards set by railroad companies. These watches featured lever-set mechanisms, highly accurate movements, and robust designs to withstand the demands of train travel.
By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, pocket watches were widespread among gentlemen of all social classes. The tendency to carry them in a waistcoat pocket, attached to a fob chain, became the epitome of refinement. Special variations, such as hunter-case watches with protective lids and open-face designs for quick readability, catered to different users, whether military officers, businessmen, or laborers.
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Despite their prevalence, the usefulness of pocket watches was increasingly challenged by the wristwatch, which was gaining traction among soldiers. In the chaos of trench warfare, fumbling for a pocket watch was impractical, while a wristwatch allowed soldiers to check the time quickly and keep their hands free. These “trench watches”, often featuring luminous dials, shatter-resistant crystals, and robust leather straps, proved their worth on the battlefield. By the war’s end, many returning soldiers had grown accustomed to wristwatches, and the stigma of them being a “women’s accessory” began to fade. While pocket watches remained the dominant timepiece up until World War I, the conflict proved to be a turning point in their decline.
As soldiers returned home with their wristwatches, civilian demand began to surge. Watch manufacturers capitalized on the shift and marketed their wristwatches as a symbol of modern masculinity, efficiency, and style. Brands like Rolex, Omega, and Longines began producing durable and elegant wristwatches. Rapid advancements in horology in the 1920s and 1930s included water-resistant cases, automatic winding mechanisms, and more accurate movements. By World War II, wristwatches were standard military issues, which helped to further solidify their near monopoly in the timepiece market.
Pocket watches soon became associated with formality and tradition rather than practicality. While they remained in use among railway workers, some business executives, and older generations, they were no longer the default choice for everyday timekeeping. By the mid-20th century, wristwatches had been firmly established as the preferred timepieces for both men and women, and pocket watches were demoted to a niche market that focused on collectors, heritage brands, and luxury pieces.
The transition from pocket watches to wristwatches wasn’t just about convenience—it reflected broader societal shifts toward speed, accessibility, and modernity. Today, while wristwatches dominate, pocket watches continue to endure, and several modern watchmakers, including Tissot and Speake-Marin, continue to produce them.
However, pocket watches continue to tick on timelessly within the realm of collecting. Collecting pocket watches offers a fascinating mix of history, craftsmanship, and treasure hunting—an exciting pursuit for seasoned horologists and beginners. For collectors, the ultimate “unicorns” are rare and highly sought-after timepieces, such as the Patek Philippe Grande Complication, early Breguet models, or limited-production railroad watches from companies like Hamilton and Waltham. These can fetch astronomical prices at auction, particularly if they have provenance or unique features.
However, for those just starting out, the pocket watch market is rich with affordable yet charming finds, including well-made Elgin or Ingersoll watches from the early 20th century, which can often be acquired for under $100. Railroad-grade watches, known for their precise timekeeping, remain a popular niche, while hunter-case designs with intricate engravings attract collectors who appreciate artistry.
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Several groups are dedicated to the pocket watch, from Facebook to forums. A few are listed below:
The Pocket Watch Group on Facebook
NAWCC Forums (National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors)
WatchUSeek’s Vintage and Pocket Watches Forum
WatchForum.com’s Pocket Watch & Clock Forum
The Clock & Pocket Watch Forum on The Watch Forum (UK)
These platforms provide valuable resources for novice and seasoned collectors, offering a sense of community and shared passion for the craftsmanship and history of pocket watches.
The shift from pocket watches to wristwatches was not merely a change in fashion but a response to the evolving needs of modern life. What began as a military necessity in the trenches of World War I soon became a symbol of efficiency, practicality, and progress. Daily routines demanded greater convenience, and the wristwatch seamlessly integrated into everyday wear. By the mid-20th century, it had fully eclipsed the pocket watch, proving that timekeeping—like time itself—never stands still.
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