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In the list of Italian breweries that an attentive and even a little nerdy craft beer drinker must necessarily know and have drunk, Brasseria Della Fonte is certainly in the lead. Over the years, Samuele Cesaroni has developed such ability and competence that he is one of the faces of the Italian craft beer Renaissance of the 2000s.
In this new article some questions to learn more about him, his history and his great inspirations. In addition to discovering some places around Italy where you can drink Brasseria Della Fonte beers.
Samuele, can you tell me your path, your story as a professional in the world of beer?
I approached the world of craft beer as a drinker, occasionally around 2009 – 2010, and then I also became interested in the production and tasting side. The turning point was during the trip to Alaska, in 2014. It was from that moment that I wondered “who knows how beer is made…?”.
Within 6 months I was already a homebrewer with a fair amount of experience, so much so that I started working as a beer firm while I deepened my studies more and more, accompanied by beer-themed trips.
In 2015 – 2016 I did a real 360 ° full immersion in the world of beer.
Brasseria Della Fonte brewery opened in June 2016 with a plant on a human scale, but still with optimal and cutting-edge technologies as regards the production process.
Over the years I have always tried to increase production gradually, both as regards the fermentation cellar (now 52 hl) and the brew system, replaced in 2020 with a custom-made 7 hl one.
Over time I have also started the barrel ageing project, with a special focus on barrels used for spirits, now I have about 30.
Is there a philosophy in the roots of Brasseria Della Fonte that you try to bring to every beer you produce?
I try to give personality to all my beers starting from the ingredients I use. Water, first of all, is that of our source and is certainly characterizing. The base malt comes from the cultivation of barley which is next to the brewery, which is then malted at a malt factory in Umbria (from which we buy other malts). Some of the ingredients I use are only me and this certainly gives personality to my productions. Other ingredients I go to look for them outside the standard market (the malt in fact, and the yeasts that are re-inoculated from previous batches).
Brasseria Della Fonte has not a declared, written philosophy. I try to do my job as best I can according to my skills and knowledge.
Which beer style do you most love to brew, or which beer do you love most to create if we refer to beer aged in wood?
I love to produce the whole English world: bitter, mild, pale ale without dry-hopping.
They are more relaxing cooking days than other beers, and I always work with recovered yeasts. As for the barrel-aged beers, they are endless and demanding cooking days, which last up to 16 – 18 hours.
Imperial Stout with double mash and very high Plato degrees are certainly the most “satisfying”.
The beers you are most proud of?
There are a couple of beers that I am proud of Viel Rauchbier and Traditional Mild. Two opposite beer styles, belonging to two distant brewing worlds. Both beers are interpretations that have given me great satisfaction.
A brewery with which you hope to collaborate soon?
What a rude question. I have done a few, both in Italy and abroad for now and I’ve always enjoyed it. I would like to collaborate with Suarez Family brewery, in upstate New York. Suarez Family is a brewery that struck me a lot for their way of working. Without bothering with more high-sounding names, I am sure I would have a lot of fun with them.
What is the beer festival you prefer, or what are the festivals you love as an exhibitor or differently as a customer and what makes it / makes them so special?
The festival where I prefer to work is surely Brewer of the Year -Florence- (and Eurhop -Rome- immediately after).
Unfortunately (or lucky) I never drink much at festivals, but I see the FrankenBierFest in Rome as the “perfect festival” for the chilling atmosphere. I don’t like the confusion or the crowds.
What would you drink after a shitty day?
Water 😊
And what would you drink to celebrate a wonderful day?
I often choose Bokkereyder or Antidoot beers from the cellar, perhaps to share with friends.
Who is in charge of communication and marketing in Brasseria Della Fonte?
I do everything myself: my communication is minimal due to a lack of time and skills. And above because we work almost mainly in presale. I never manage to have products available.
I do marketing in the brewery while working!
Where can you buy Brasseria Della Fonte beers if you are not close to Pienza?
I have a regular clientele of pubs/beer shops that take my beers consistently. Over time a good friendship has been created, and it makes me happy and proud because it means that this is the right way. Some places are Moskito pub (Iseo), Galaxy Beer shop, Arrogant Pub (Emilia), The Drunken Duck (Vicenza), Scurreria (Genoa), La Bottega Matta (in Montepulciano) a few km from my brewery, Torre del Luppolo and L’Etrusco. In addition, there are 15 to 18 pubs in Rome and more others around Italy.
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I have seen photos of you and some barrels. Rolling barrels out of the brewery! Can you tell us what it is?
It is called “Bravio delle Botti”. Bravio delle Botti is a gruelling competition that takes place once a year (in August), in Montepulciano. It consists of pushing an 85kg Tonneaux for just under 2 km on an uphill path. Eight districts participate with two pushers each, all top-level athletes and excellent runners. We train all year round: it is amazing how much dedication and sacrifice we all put in trying to win. We train 8 – 10 hours a week, and in the month before the race, it is forbidden to touch alcohol, so for me an additional sacrifice.