I Walked the Entire Length of Japan’s Ancient Buddhist Pilgrimage Shikoku Henro

March 4, 2025

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I Walked the Entire Length of Japan’s Ancient Buddhist Pilgrimage Shikoku Henro, Patrick Boxall,

Japan’s 1200km Shikoku Henro is one of the world’s few circular pilgrimages. Explorer Patrick completed the pilgrimage in April 2024 and came home a little fitter, a little leaner and – if you ask him – a little wiser, too.

The Shikoku Henro circumnavigates the Japanese island of Shikoku and sees pilgrims visiting 88 Buddhist temples associated with Kobo Daishi, the monk who brought Buddhism from China to Japan.

Cherry blossoms in Saijo City

Quick Overview

The Shikoku Henro is a 1200km(ish) loop on the Japanese island of Shikoku. Pilgrims generally take 30–60 days to walk the entire pilgrimage, averaging 20–40km per day. The majority of pilgrims are Japanese but the route is becoming increasingly popular with foreigners looking for an extended walk that doesn’t require complicated logistics or carrying a heavy load.

Shikoku Henro Facts

Distance: Approximately 1200km
Duration: 1–2 months
Elevation gain: Approximately 20,000m
Nearest town: Tokushima

Nature reclaiming a Japanese vending machine in Tokushima

About the Shikoku Henro

The Shikoku Henro is a Buddhist pilgrimage on the Japanese island of Shikoku. The pilgrimage can be completed on foot, by bicycle, or by vehicle.

There’s no ‘correct’ way of completing the pilgrimage, nor is there a time limit; pilgrims are simply required to visit all 88 temples along the route and receive a goshuin (stamp) from each.

This can be done as one continuous journey, but many Japanese will walk for a week or two at a time and complete the entire pilgrimage over several years or even decades.

Resting with a Japanese pilgrim I regularly encountered throughout the walk

History of the Shikoku Henro

Though it’s hard to put an exact date on the Shikoku pilgrimage’s beginnings, it’s thought to have been in existence for over a thousand years. The central figure of the pilgrimage is Kobo Daishi, or Kukai, who brought Buddhism from China to Japan and was born on Shikoku.

Kobo Daishi is said to travel alongside all pilgrims, a belief that has led to the tradition of osettai – the practice of gifting pilgrims small tokens, like cold drinks or fruit, which double as gifts to Kobo Daishi.

A statue of Kobo Daishi

The word Shikoku translates as ‘four provinces’, a reference to the old political divisions prior to Japan’s Meiji period. These days, there are four prefectures in Shikoku: Tokushima in the east, Kagawa in the north, Ehime in the west, and Kochi in the south.

The pilgrim’s journey through these four provinces emulates the Buddhist path to enlightenment, with temples 1–23 representing awakening (hosshin), 24–39 representing austerity and discipline (shugyō), 40–65 representing enlightenment (bodai), and 66–88 representing nirvana (nehan).

Traditional Shinto shrine

How to Get to the Shikoku Henro?

The Shikoku Henro has no official starting point; that said, the majority of pilgrims will start at Temple 1 (Ryōzen-ji), in the city of Tokushima, and walk clockwise around the island.

By Car

Tokushima city is a two-hour drive from Osaka.

By Train

Take a Tokaido or Shinkansen train from Tokyo or Osaka to Okayama, then take the Seto-Ohashi Kotoku Line from Okayama to Tokushima Station.

By Bus

Overnight and daytime buses run from major cities including Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe. The overnight bus from Tokyo takes approximately nine hours.

Cherry blossoms in Saijo City

Where to Stay Along the Shikoku Henro

There are various accommodation options on offer for pilgrims walking the Shikoku Henro.

Minshuku – These are traditional guesthouses with basic facilities. Some offer an option for home-cooked meals
Ryokan – A more upmarket style of traditional guesthouse usually offering dinner and breakfast
Hotels – Tend to be cheaper than a ryokan but more expensive than a minshuku, offering more Western-style facilities
Hostels – Bigger cities have affordable dorm room options
Campgrounds – There are a number of public campgrounds scattered around Shikoku, though many are off the pilgrimage path. Be sure to plan in advance if you’re hoping to bring a tent and camp. Note that sleeping outdoors, outside of an official campsite, is a controversial practice and generally discouraged by locals.

Traditional accommodation

Skill Level

Beginner

Though the Shikoku Henro is a long adventure, you don’t need a tonne of outdoor experience to complete it. With the guidebook and Henro Helper app, you shouldn’t have too much trouble navigating the trail as it’s generally well-marked.

Shikoku Henro Packing List

Comfortable walking shoes that can handle both road and trail
A 30–40L backpack
Shikoku Pilgrimage Route Guide
Traditional pilgrim attire (to be purchased on Shikoku)
Three sets of walking clothes
A rain jacket or poncho
First aid kit

This is the traditional pilgrim attire

What it’s Like to Walk the Shikoku Henro

By the end of my 1200km pilgrimage, I’d walked through such a variety of landscapes – from golden beaches to alpine summits – I had a hard time believing I’d been in a single country the entire time.

The days spent schlepping along coastal highways were balanced by regular forays into pine forests and the mountains, in search of remote ancient temples. On some days I shared the path with other pilgrims; on others, I’d walk an entire day without speaking to anyone.

Being Japan, the food and hospitality along the Shikoku Henro are a real highlight. Kagawa Prefecture is famous for its udon noodles and fresh seafood is a staple across the island. The ubiquitous conbini (convenience store) was, at times, my lord and saviour.

While the food and landscapes are important parts of the Shikoku Henro, it’s the fleeting and not-so-fleeting interactions with locals and other pilgrims that make this journey such a memorable one.

No two pilgrimages are the same – I hesitate to offer much advice, except to take things at your own pace and be open and flexible. I’m not a Buddhist, but being curious about the rituals and stories added invaluable context to my own journey.

Quick coffee stop with two local women who were excited to hear about the walk

Stage 1: Tokushima Prefecture (Awakening)

Distance: 200km
Temples: 1–23

For many pilgrims (henro), the journey around Shikoku begins in Tokushima Prefecture. This stage represents awakening and sets the spiritual tone for the pilgrimage, with henro arriving at Ryozen-ji (Temple 1) and donning the traditional uniform of a white robe, conical hat, and wooden staff.

Beginning just north of Tokushima city, the path loops the rural outskirts of Tokushima before turning south towards the ocean. The highlight – for me, at least – was the ascent to Shosan-ji (Temple 12), which is the pilgrimage’s second-highest temple and is thought of as a nansho (hard place).

One of many viewpoints from the ascent to Temple 12

The quad-busting 700m climb followed winding mountain paths past enormous cedar trees before depositing me at a serene temple with views (on a clear day) of the surrounding mountain ranges.

The coastal town of Hiwasa, which is home to Yakuō-ji (Temple 23), served as a beautiful base to recharge before tackling the 77km stretch to Kochi Prefecture and Hotsumisaki-ji (Temple 24).

I soothed my muscles in the Yakuoji Onsen, which is just below the temple, and rested my head at Ichi The Hostel, which serves up some top-notch (and much-deserved) cocktails.

I Walked the Entire Length of Japan’s Ancient Buddhist Pilgrimage Shikoku Henro, Patrick Boxall, torii gate, hiwasa

Red Torii Gate off the coast of Hiwasa

Stage 2: Kochi Prefecture (Austerity & Discipline)

Distance: 390km
Temples: 24–39

Kochi is the Shikoku Henro’s longest and most remote stage. It’s known as the ‘Land of Ascetic Training’ due its physical demands and the solitary pilgrim experience. Essentially, Kochi is where pilgrims go ‘full monk’.

Hemmed in between the Pacific Ocean and mountains, the path took me first to Cape Muroto, where Kobo Daishi is to have gained enlightenment while meditating in a cave. Legend has it he swallowed a star (of the celestial variety), which I wouldn’t recommend attempting.

Pilgrims praying at one of the mountain temples

At various points I became fed up with walking along the coast, but was pleased to discover the terrain became more varied after passing through Kochi City.

The boat across Uranouchi Bay was both a novelty and a highlight, while the walk from Cape Ashizuri to Mihara Village was one of the most memorable stretches of hiking I’ve ever done.

Embrace the challenging terrain and isolation. This stage invites reflection and many henro are thankful for the opportunity to lean into the pilgrim experience.

Stage 3: Ehime Prefecture (Enlightenment)

Distance: 360km
Temples: 39–65

Crossing into Ehime, the ‘Land of Enlightenment’, I walked approximately 360km over remote mountains, through bustling port cities and along the northern coast. Though Ehime is said to be a gentler stretch than Kochi, I still encountered challenging terrain.

Highlights included Matsuyama City, which is home to Matsuyama Castle, a large student population and Dogo Onsen (of Spirited Away fame). I found the best stretch of walking was to temples 54 (Daihō-ji) and 55 (Iwaya-ji) in the Kumakogen area.

Spring is sakura, or cherry blossom season

Carved into a cliff, Iwaya-ji is everything one could want from a mountain temple. The surrounding forest is the stuff of fairytales and the pristine stream below guided me back to civilisation.

Ehime is also known for the Shimanami Kaido – a road consisting of nine bridges stretching across the Seto Inland Sea to Hiroshima. It connects to Shikoku at the port city of Imabari and is well worth the overnight detour if your schedule is flexible. I met plenty of cyclists in town and was disappointed I didn’t have time to swap two feet for two wheels.

House perched on the Oda River

Stage 4: Kagawa Prefecture (Nirvana)

Distance: 150km
Temples: 66–88

The final stage of the Shikoku Henro sees pilgrims travelling through Kagawa Prefecture. This stage represents nirvana, a transcendent state devoid of suffering, desire, and ego. By now, both my body and mind had adjusted to the journey, allowing me to embrace the present.

Like this sunset over the Yoshino River in Tokushima

In Japan, Kagawa is the home of udon noodles; so yes, it truly is nirvana. Soupy, slurpable noodles were the perfect fuel to push me through the final 150km of the pilgrimage. Zentsū-ji (Temple 75) is a real highlight as this is where Kobo Daishi grew up.

It’s possible to stay in the temple but you’ll need to plan accordingly and may have to book a week or two in advance.

My most memorable moment was arriving at Ōkubo-ji (Temple 88) after a challenging final climb. If you’re not staying the night at the nearby accommodation, it’s still worth hanging around for a bowl of noodles and a beer.

With so many henro finishing their pilgrimage, there’s something special in the mountain air.

My certificate of completion in the hills before Temple 88

Tips For Hiking the Shikoku Henro

Hike in spring or autumn for the best weather
Wear the henro uniform and don’t forget to buy the stamp book!
Be sure to carry extra yen – small coins, preferably – to offer at temples along the way
Read as much as you can about the trail before you go so you’re prepared for the experience and get the most out of it
Try the local food

One of many tsunami warning signs

Shikoku Henro FAQs

When is the best time to complete the Shikoku Henro?

Spring and autumn are the best (and most popular) months for walking the Shikoku Henro. Summer can be unbearably hot and humid, while winter sees snow on the high passes and many accommodations and facilities closing. In spring, you’ll likely walk beside cherry blossoms, while autumn sees the leaves turning red and yellow. The beauty of both will bring you to your knees.

What are Shikoku’s trails like?

Much of the path – as much as 85–90% – is bitumen, so be prepared to spend a long time walking on the road and pavement. It can be tough going, but this is balanced by the beauty of the mountain and forest stages.

How do I plan my Shikoku Henro walk?

There are three invaluable sources of information: the official Shikoku Japan Route Guide, the Henro Helper app, and the Shikoku 88 Ohenro Pilgrimage Facebook group. Between the three, you should find answers to all your questions. Henro.org will also be useful.

How do I book accommodation?

Accommodation options are listed in the resources mentioned above. You’ll find that many traditional inns need to be booked over the phone and the owners often don’t speak English. Fortunately, English-speaking Japanese pilgrims and locals are often happy to help you book the next night or two.

The Henro House website is also useful, as it lists a network of affordable homestay accommodations around the island that can be booked online (and in English). You’ll likely use a combination of Henro House, booking.com, and phone calls to make your way around the island.

Be aware that foreign pilgrims have gained a reputation for booking accommodation and not turning up. This is deeply offensive in Japanese culture as hosts will have gone out to buy enough food for dinner. Please let hosts know as soon as possible if you can’t make your accommodation booking – otherwise, more accommodations will be closed to foreign pilgrims.

What is mobile reception like on the Shikoku Henro?

Mobile reception is, generally speaking, very good around the island. I bought an Airalo eSim and had reception through all cities and villages and even in the mountainous areas where, as an Australian, assumed I’d be let down. There’ll be black spots, but for the most part, you should be able to get a text away. Still, it’s a good idea to download any maps to your phone.

Do I have to wear the henro uniform?

No, you don’t. You can wear whatever is comfortable for walking. I do, however, recommend buying the white vest and walking staff, as you’re more likely to be welcomed and approached when you can be clearly identified as a pilgrim. You’ll also need to pick up a stamp book, which the temple attendants will stamp and sign using traditional calligraphy, to confirm you’ve paid your respects.

Is the Shikoku Henro similar to the Camino de Santiago?

Though there are similarities between the walks, as you might expect from pilgrimages, the cultures of Japan and Spain are very different.

It’s important to travel through Japan with a lot of respect and politeness – in recent years, this has been lacking from some foreign pilgrims. Know too that there’s a lot more partying and comradery on the Camino de Santiago. The Shikoku Henro is not as social, especially as you’ll often spend the night in the houses of locals rather than large hostels catering exclusively to pilgrims.

Where does the Shikoku Henro start and finish?

The Shikoku Henro has no official starting point. That said, most foreign pilgrims will begin and end at Temple 1. You’re not required to continue from Temple 88 to Temple 1, but many do as a way of ‘closing the loop’.

What temple rituals do I need to complete?

There are a number of traditional rituals a henro can complete at each temple. At the very least, you should be respectful and bow at the main temple gate before washing your hands, ringing the bell, and offering a small amount of yen at the two temple halls. After prayers and offerings, you may receive a stamp from the nōkyōjo (stamp office). Henro.org is a great resource for more in-depth information about rituals and etiquette.

Where can I find more information about the Shikoku Henro?

In addition to the planning resources mentioned above, there are a number of books and YouTube videos detailing the Shikoku Henro. My favourite book about Shikoku is The Cicada’s Summer Song by Lu Barnham. Neon Pilgrim, by Lisa Dempster, is also worth a read.

Descending from Temple 60