In recent years, consumers have increasingly been turning to cocktails with stronger, bolder flavors, driven by a variety of factors, including shifting preferences and a desire for unique experiences.
T.A. “Ted” Breaux, an absinthe expert, highlights the evolution of cocktail culture, noting that the early 2000s were dominated by vodka and flavored vodka. However, the removal of the U.S. prohibition on absinthe in 2007, alongside the rise of more complex spirits like agave, gin, and amaro, have contributed to a broader trend toward stronger flavors.
Breaux emphasizes the influence of agave spirits, particularly in California, as a significant catalyst: “The Bay Area in CA was ground zero in the trend of mainstreaming more esoteric agave spirits, which gained sufficient momentum to reverberate throughout the US and across oceans. Almost like an echo, what bounced back from across the Atlantic are strongly flavored spirits like aperitivo and amaro, the popularity and selection of which in the US is now larger than ever. Also, in an unexpected twist, the popularity of zero ABV spirits has fueled the trend simply because they often substitute strong flavors for alcohol. The flavor pendulum has indeed swung toward the opposite direction, and in doing so, it has launched a renaissance of sorts for absinthe.”
Darian Everding, an absinthe enthusiast and a bartender from Ames, Iowa who works at London Underground, explains that younger consumers, driven by curiosity, social media trends, and a desire for new experiences, are more willing to embrace complex flavors. These drinkers, who are less concerned with intoxication and more focused on “Instagrammability” and “FOMO,” often seek bold flavors that make each drink memorable.
“These younger drinkers also have a different relationship to intoxication, preferring to purchase fewer drinks overall; thus, they want each drink they have to count. I have also noticed that these drinkers are more accepting of the idea that they will encounter drinks that don’t suit their palates but which they respect for the experience regardless.”
This shift has had a profound impact on how absinthe is perceived by both bartenders and consumers. Breaux points out that, unlike 20 years ago when absinthe was stigmatized and associated with illicit substances, younger drinkers are now more open-minded. The myths surrounding absinthe have less influence on today’s consumers, who are more likely to approach the spirit sensibly. With better access to accurate information, the perception of absinthe has evolved, making it a more approachable and respected ingredient for cocktail enthusiasts.
So, what makes absinthe so appealing? Breaux has an answer:
“Understanding absinthe as a cocktail ingredient begins with understanding that traditional absinthe is a highly extracted, dry, anise-flavored botanical spirit that requires a high ABV to remain stable in the bottle. The high concentration of aromatics is most stimulating to the palate. In his 1895 book, ‘The Mixicologist,’ C.F. Lawler observed that the flavor of a cocktail is generally improved through the addition of a small amount of absinthe. In this context, absinthe was often used like cocktail ‘hot sauce’ to contribute a bit of excitement.”
But absinthe isn’t just for making flavors pop; it can also be well paired with other strong flavors with a bit of skill and ingenuity. For example, I was intrigued by a cocktail I experienced in Manhattan, which consisted of absinthe, baijiu, and a yuzu cream reduction. These are not flavors one would necessarily consider as playing well together, but much to my own surprise, they absolutely do. Absinthe also plays well with strong cocktail bitters and stands with them shoulder-to-shoulder, thus allowing those to be used in larger concentrations than typical, creating some very interesting flavor combinations. When supported by base spirits like agave, rum, or whiskey, and tied together with juices and liqueurs that serve as ‘glue,’ the results can be exceptional.”
For bartenders looking to incorporate “La Fée Verte” (The Green Fairy) into their drink programs, Breaux suggests starting with classic cocktail books, such as the 1930 edition of The Savoy Cocktail Book, which offers numerous recipes featuring absinthe. He also recommends looking at resources like drinklucid.com for an absinthe mixology guide.
Everding advocates for experimentation, encouraging bartenders to try absinthe in various cocktails to understand how it works. “Start by acquainting yourself with the absinthe(s) you’ll be working with and then get creative! I always try a new absinthe with several methods to understand how it plays: dilute with water; in a Brunelle, in a Necromancer, in a Sazerac. Play with it in small amounts like bitters and give it a try as a base spirit. I like having a cocktail on the menu that uses a significant amount of absinthe so that I can ensure the bottles are turning over; quality absinthes are an expensive ingredient but it’s easier to justify the quality when you use lots of it!”
Both Breaux and Everding agree that getting creative with absinthe is key to unlocking its full potential in modern mixology. As Everding says, “I believe in you and your ability to bring the Green Fairy to life!”
Amore e Morte
by Darian Everding – @DrinkingWithDarian
Ingredients
- ¾ oz. Lucid Absinthe Supérieure
- ¾ oz. Pama
- 2 dashes Bittercube Cherry Bark Vanilla Bitters
Preparation
- Shake, strain into coupe, Top with strawberry Kombucha (Strawberry Serenity from Synergy).
- Garnish with a strawberry.
Fairies on the Beach
by Darian Everding – @DrinkingWithDarian
Ingredients
- 1/4 oz. Lucid Absinthe Supérieure
- 1 ½ oz. Appleton Estate Rum
- ¾ oz. Drambuie
- ½ oz. Ziyad Guava Nectar
- 3 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters
Preparation
- Shake, strain into lowball or Old Fashioned glass.
- Garnish with two Amarena black cherries.
Wide Eyed (Our version of an Espresso Martini)
by Marco Salas – @MarcoAntonioSalas
Ingredients
- 3/4 oz. Lucid Absinthe Supérieure
- ¾ oz. coffee liqueur
- ¾ oz. Peychaud’s Bitters
- 1 oz. Cold Brew Coffee
- ½ oz. Simple Syrup
Preparation
- Shake, strain into coupe glass.
