
Shor Gumbad, dome of the noise
Also see: Gulbarga (Kalaburagi) Travelogues
On the eastern edge of Gulbarga (now Kalaburagi) stands the single-domed structure of Shor Gumbad (or Chor Gumbad). It stands atop a small mound and overlooks the road passing next to the mound.
Gulbarga (now Kalaburagi) is the former capital of the Bahamani Kingdom from its inception in 1347 until 1424. It served as the capital for the first 8 Bahamani rulers. The 9th ruler, Ahmed Shah Wali Bahmani, shifted the capital to Bidar, which served as the capital till the disintegration of the Bahamani kingdom in 1527.
Since November 1, 2014, Gulbarga (Persian for “city of flowers and gardens”) has been known as Kalaburagi (Kannada for “land of stones and thorns”). The move was part of a larger initiative to rename several cities in Karnataka to reflect their local history and Kannada heritage. Today, Kalaburagi is a busy, unplanned town with chaotic traffic. Shor Gumbad, along with the Gulbarga Fort and Haft Gumbad are few of the Bhamani Sultanate period structures still standing in Kalaburagi.
History of Shor Gumbad: Nothing much is known about the history of Shor Gumbad, but it is believed to have been built during the reign of Firoz Shah Bahamani (reign: 24 November 1397 – 1 October 1422) or Ahmed Shah Wali Bahmani (reign:1 October 1422 – 17 April 1436)
Tomb or watch tower?: Also, nothing is known about the purpose of the structure. No grave have been found inside the structure making historians believe that it was not a tomb. On the other hand its strategic location atop a hill and on the edge of the town have justified the opinion of a watch tower.
Origin of the name: Shor Gumbad literally translates into noisy dome. The interior of the tomb has a unique acoustic properties that allow sounds to echo multiple times giving a noisy feeling (something similar to Gol Gumbaz, Bijapur). The structure is also refereed as the Chor Gumbad, literally meaning the dome of the thief. According to local folklore the structure served as a hideout for thieves and criminals in later years.
Architecture: The tomb stands on a square base and is topped with a giant dome, along with four corner turrets. From the outside, the structures appear two-storied with two levels of recessed arches. Each side has five recessed arches on two levels. The only entrance is from the eastern side.
Interiors: Although it looks double-storied from outside, the interiors reveal a single storey. The walls are decorated with beautiful calligraphy of verses from the Koran, along with geometric and floral patterns. Narrow staircases lead to the inner drum of the dome with the unique acoustic properties that allow sounds to echo multiple times.
Interior of Shor Gumbad
Shor Gumbad today: With the rapidly expanding city of Kalaburagi, the area around the Shor Gumbad is heavily encroached. Even portions of the mound have been leveled to give way to real estate development.
Today, Shor Gumbad is a protected monument under the Karnataka State Archaeology Department. They have built a wall around the Shor Gumbad to prevent encroachment.
The entry to the complex is through a opening in the northern boundary wall. Next to the complex entrance is an active dargah housing two graves. This is an active dargah frequented by locals.
Shor Gumbad is rarely visited and lies in utter neglect. Vegetative growth have taken over the structure and the wall compound is not well maintained.
The interior tell the same story. The plasters have peeled off and the calligraphy and stucco ornamentation has gone missing. Only the amazing acoustic still remains and the thundering roar from a single sound still amazes the occasional visitor.
Necessary information:
- Location: Google map location
- Timings: No fixed timings. Usually open from 9am – 5pm
- Tickets: Free. Non-tickted
- Photography: Allowed
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