I spent 13 years living in Chicago, never more than three miles from Alinea, the famed Michelin 3-star restaurant (or AAA 5 Diamond for those who prefer their restaurant reviews to come from a different automotive company). I never ate there, though, and when my wife and I moved to Charlotte to run away from winter, I thought my chance had passed. Then, I discovered Counter-.
Before I go any further, let me save you a headache. You can just read the name as “counter.” The “-” is meant to let you add any word you see fit. Counter-culture. Counter-intuitive. Counter-espionage. OK, maybe not that last one, but you get the point.
It may be fine dining, but Counter- isn’t serving on white linens with 16 different types of forks.
The restaurant flies counter to traditional fine dining. It’s not stuffy, classical, or laid out like a dinner party from Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous. Chef Sam Hart focuses on bringing attention to people who might not ordinarily land in the spotlight.
That includes people like rising chefs who might typically be heads down in the kitchen of most restaurants and local artists whose works adorn the walls and inspire dishes. Music also plays a big role in the meal, although it leans more toward picking the perfect song for a dish… or a week-long special menu based entirely around Outkast.
From the horse’s mouth
Counter- is an intimate, full sensory restaurant experience featuring themed 10- and 14- course tasting menus created by Executive Chef and Owner Sam Hart (a 2023 James Beard Awards Semifinalist for Best Chef: Southeast). Designed to evoke emotion throughout the dining experience by utilizing sound, taste, and art as a vehicle, the menus rotate quarterly and are driven by sense-based storylines such as music, modern art, and mental health.
Via the Counter- website
Let’s get it out of the way. The food at Counter- is absolutely amazing. It’s unique. It’s creative. It’s occasionally comprised of ingredients you literally can’t go out and buy, regardless of where you are. Quite frankly, it’s probably the best food I’ve had in 40 years, and I used to weigh almost 250 lbs, so you know I’ve done some eating in my day.
But people don’t pay $1,000 to eat dinner (the 14-course meal is $235, and wine pairings can add up to $325). Counter- offers a truly immersive experience, and that’s what sets it apart. When my wife and I visited, the menu theme was modern art. They didn’t just serve up dishes in an artist’s style, though.
Every course had a story. Sure, they told you what you were eating, but Hart – or whichever staff member created the dish – brought you into their world and shared their inspiration and passion. We weren’t waiting for them to be quiet so we could eat. We anxiously awaited the next course to learn more.
This is also the first time non-alcoholic drinks didn’t feel like an afterthought. Wine pairings are certainly the star of the beverage show, but a tremendous amount of thought and care went into creating spiritless drinks that rang true to their namesake cocktails but were driven by clever culinary combinations, not just taking the tequila out of a margarita.
I used to think “experiential dining” was a gimmick, and I’m sure most places that fall into the category are (I’m looking at you, Rain Forest Cafe). But Counter- nails the concept and turns a meal into an occasion that will be seared into my memory like the super prime striploin that led the “Fuck Pablo Picasso” course.
If you want to go from the gutter to butter for your next meal, I can’t recommend Counter- enough. A few of their upcoming menu themes for this year are Street Food, Here & Now, Curry, and Time… not to mention a special all-desserts menu.
A few things to know
- It’s worth every penny. I can’t afford a season pass, which gets you early access to each theme before it sells out, but I’ll be back at least a couple times. Full disclosure, Counter- comped one of our plates this visit.
- Just go with it. Hart served a dish of banana, tomato, parmesan, and mascarpone, which sounded like hell on earth and tasted… well, counter to that.
- The spirit-free alternative to wine pairings is next level. Don’t expect boring alcohol-less cocktails. They’re unique creations from the sommelier, with one drink seemingly having 14 ingredients.
- It’s about the show as much as the food. Enjoy the stories, choreographed movement, and curated music that really ties the
roommeal together. - You’re going to be full. Fancy food on small plates is always a risk, but trust me – you won’t leave the slightest bit hungry.
And in closing… I have to give them full marks for blasting the perfect song to accompany their Jackson Pollock’esque rootbeer float dessert.
