Emmer and Rye Artisan Bread


I enjoy exploring ancient and modern wheats, whole grain, sifted, and refined flours, and different forms of leavening, and this artisan-style bread recipe embodies my love of all these possibilities. It’s made with a delicious combination of flours: organic bread flour from hard red spring wheat for loft and chew, ancient emmer wheat flour for nutty sweetness, and rye flour for earthy-grassy notes and staling-resistance. I chose to leaven the dough with yeast, which you don’t see very often in Breadtopia recipes given our passion for sourdough, so our yeast baker fans can have a break from converting recipes from sourdough to yeast and also to work on my own yeast-leavening skills.

Emmer wheat (aka farro medio) on the left; Rye on the right

I typically use yeast for enriched breads like brioche and challah, because it’s easier to get a fluffy crumb and a caramelized crust with yeast. With sourdough, you need to begin strategically feeding your starter one or more days ahead and that doesn’t always work with my schedule.

You might think that if a person can bake artisan-style crusty breads with sourdough, then baking this same sort of bread with yeast would be easy. Not so! Figuring out how much yeast to use for a targeted fermentation time requires experience and observation, just like with sourdough. You could default to using a packet of yeast (2 1/4 tsp) and have bread ready in about 3 hours, but I’ve found that a longer rise is better. Time develops both flavor and gluten strength, so too rapid leavening in this style of bread results in minimal score bloom (no ear) and an overpowering aroma of yeast rather than the wheat flavors shining through.

For my first attempt at this recipe, I used 1/4 tsp yeast and mixed the dough just before bed in a 70°F kitchen. About nine hours later, the dough had more than tripled. This small amount of yeast likely would have taken longer on a white flour dough, but whole grain rye and emmer boosted the fermentation. I salvaged the situation by shaping and baking the dough as Turkish Pide, which I highly recommend everyone try, either with this dough or the original sourdough recipe formula.

For the next attempt, I reduced the yeast amount to 1/8 tsp and mixed the dough in the morning so I could keep an eye on it. With a warmer ambient temperature of 76°F, the dough doubled and was ready to shape in about 6.5 hours. With a sourdough, I might have refrigerated the proofing basket until the next day, but given how active this dough was and my relative inexperience with instant yeast in this scenario, I didn’t want to risk it. I let the dough rise at room temperature for about an hour and then baked it. You can see how much I let the dough rise in the Photo Gallery below the recipe.

Excellent texture and flavor

Photo Gallery

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