Meet the Winemaker Ana María Cumsille from Viña Carmen • WineDivaa

I recently attended “Sips of South America” hosted by Wine Enthusiast. One of the absolute highlight of my experience was an intimate tasting session with Ana María Cumsille.

“Anita” as nick-named by its peers, is incredibly knowledgeable and passionate, and a rising star in the Chilean wine scene. Ana Maria Cumsille is the chief winemaker at Viña Carmen, one of Chile’s most historic wineries.

Unveiling Viña Carmen’s Legacy

We met at the “Sips of South America” event. It was hosted by Wine Enthusiast at City Winery Pier 57 in New York City. The energy of the city perfectly complemented the dynamic wines on offer.

The primary purpose of this event was to showcase the diversity and quality of South American wines. More specifically, it was to highlight the exquisite wines from Argentina, Uruguay, Chile and for the first time Brazil. Hence, as soon as it started the event I headed out to Viña Carmen table to meet Anita. As I told her, this is the first time we meet but hopefully not the last.

Ana María guided us through each wine. She shared insights into the viticultural practices and winemaking philosophy. She also described the unique characteristics of each vineyard site. Her passion was infectious, and her expertise enriched every sip.

Although she has been with Viña Carmen for only three years, her understanding of the winery’s philosophy is clear. Her dedication to its wines is also palpable. It was a true pleasure to taste alongside her. I gained insights directly from someone so deeply connected to the winemaking process.

We delved deep into a curated selection of Viña Carmen’s exceptional wines. This portfolio truly demonstrated the winery’s commitment to quality and innovation. It also highlighted the unique character of the Chilean terroir. The wines we tasted included:

Carmen Gold 2021

A true testament to Carmen’s prowess in crafting iconic wines. This particular vintage showcased a beautiful balance of ripe dark fruits – think blackberry and cassis – intertwined with elegant notes of cedar and a hint of dark chocolate from careful oak aging. The tannins were refined, providing a long, lingering finish that spoke of its ageability and complexity.

Carmen Delanz Apalta 2022

This wine immediately captured my attention. It presented a more restrained yet equally expressive profile. On the nose, I detected bright red cherry and plum, with subtle herbaceous undertones and a touch of graphite. The palate was medium-bodied, with vibrant acidity and a silky texture. The fruit was pure and focused, leading to a fresh, clean finish. This wine exemplifies the nuanced elegance I’ve come to appreciate in the Delanz series.

Carmen María’s Legacy 2022

This wine was a delightful discovery, offering a captivating blend of floral aromas, perhaps violet and rose, mingling with juicy red berries. There was an intriguing minerality present, almost a saline quality, which added depth. The palate was wonderfully supple, with well-integrated tannins and a bright, energetic acidity that made it incredibly food-friendly.

Carmen DO Quijada Semillón 2021

A fantastic example of a white wine that defies expectations. This Semillón was rich and textural, with notes of beeswax, honeyed apricots, and a hint of toasted almond. Despite its richness, it maintained a refreshing acidity, making it incredibly well-balanced and intriguing. It truly showcased the potential of this often-overlooked varietal in Chile.

Carmen DO Matorral Chileno 2023

This wine was a revelation, speaking directly to the unique native flora of Chile. It displayed a fascinating aromatic profile of wild herbs, garrigue, and dark, brooding fruits. The palate was savory and earthy, with firm yet ripe tannins and a distinctive wildness that was utterly captivating. It’s a wine that truly tells a story of its origin.

Delanz Cabernet Sauvignon 2023

Another stellar offering from the Delanz line. This Cabernet Sauvignon was a testament to balance and elegance. It offered classic notes of blackcurrant, bell pepper, and a touch of graphite. However, it had a more approachable and vibrant character than some of the bolder, more traditional Cabernets. The tannins were beautifully integrated, and the finish was long and graceful.

The Evolution of Excellence: From Bold to Balanced

What truly struck me during this tasting, and what I discussed with Ana María, was the exciting evolution of Viña Carmen’s winemaking philosophy. Having previously enjoyed their Delanz series, I’ve witnessed firsthand their progression from crafting powerful, bold wines to a more nuanced, balanced style that appeals to a wider range of palates.

I openly shared my preference for the balanced style of the Delanz series, a style that I believe truly highlights the terroir without overpowering the delicate nuances of the fruit. The Delanz Apalta 2022 and the Delanz Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 were perfect examples of this evolution. They offered complexity and depth without sacrificing freshness or elegance. Their vibrant acidity and refined tannins made them incredibly approachable, yet still possessing significant character. This shift towards a more elegant and expressive style is something I deeply appreciate as a wine writer and enthusiast.

It’s truly impressive to see one of Chile’s oldest wineries. Indeed, it’s one of the oldest in the country. It continues to innovate and adapt while staying true to its rich heritage. Viña Carmen’s journey from its establishment to its current forward-thinking approach is a testament to its enduring commitment to excellence.

A Toast to Chilean Innovation with Viña Carmen

My tasting experience with Ana María Cumsille and Viña Carmen was nothing short of inspiring. It was a vivid reminder of the incredible quality and diversity emanating from Chilean vineyards. Viña Carmen showcases a range of exceptional wines. These include the iconic Carmen Gold, the captivating DO series, and the beautifully balanced Delanz wines. Viña Carmen continues to push boundaries and redefine what’s possible in Chilean winemaking. Ana María’s dedication and the winery’s commitment to expressing their unique terroir are truly commendable. I left the “Sips of South America” event not only with a deepened appreciation for Viña Carmen but also with an invigorated sense of excitement for the future of Chilean wine. Salud!

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