Exploring the hill-station of Uttarkhand on a cycle rickshaw
Also see: Uttarakhand Travelogues
Hills stations and cycle rickshaws don’t go hand in hand, but think again, as Mussoorie has its share of cycle rickshaws and is a popular mode of transport for both locals and tourists. Usually, the undulating terrain of the hill station makes padel power difficult in the hill- stations.
My wife Debjani and my daughter Rupsha enjoys a rickshaw ride in front of the Hawa Mahal pavilion
Things are different in Mussoorie, a large tract of land surrounding the hill station is flat, making it easily accessible for pedal-powered vehicles. Moreover, motor vehicles are not allowed in large sections of the mall area and therefore, rickshaws make a good substitute.
An antique wooden hand-pulled rickshaw on display
History of rickshaws in Mussoorie: The rickshaws (not cycle but hand-pulled) of Mussoorie have a long history dating back to the days of the British Raj.
During the middle of the 19th century, Mussoorie started developing as a hill station.
It started serving as a summer retreat to the British officers, who found the place ideal for escaping the plains of India during the hot season.
Movement within the city was difficult, as there were hardly any modes of transport. So, in the 1890s, an Indian business man came up with the idea of introducing rickshaws in Mussoorie, which was gladly accepted by the British administration. He was even provided with a workshop space, where the rickshaws could be built.
A symbol of elitism: The rickshaws soon became a popular mode of transportation. It was even a symbol of elitism. To add to this, the rickshaw pullers were provided with impressive uniforms. The rickshaw usually carried one to two passengers.
Pulled up the slopes, Mussoorie rickshaw ride
They were pulled by four or five rickshaw pullers, who were known as jhampanies. At the turn of the century, the rickshaws in Mussoorie numbered about 300.
There have been interesting stories about the communication, or rather miscommunication, between the jhampanies and their European passengers.
According to one story, once the jhampanies demanded 4 annas (1/4 of a rupee) from a British officer after he had reached his destination. The officer, who was not familiar with the language and numerals, disagreed and wanted to pay one rupee. No wonder the jhampanies at once agreed.
Introduction of cycle rickshaws: In 1995, the local administration decided to replace the hand-pulled rickshaws with the cycle rickshaws. Since then, the cycle rickshaws have been continuing their journey through the streets of Mussoorie.
Gate of Mussoorie Cemetery
In 2017, there was an initiative to turn the cycle rickshaws into battery-powered e-rickshaws, but the plan is yet to be implemented and the padeled rickshaws still dominate the flat regions of Mussoorie.
Leisure rides to tourists: Today, the rickshaw stand (Google map location) in Mussoorie is located next to the ropeway stand.
Opposite the rickshaw stand is a covered platform displaying an old wooden hand-pulled rickshaw.
A brief write up on the history of rickshaws in Mussoorie is also provided. Sadly, the beautifully decorated platform is almost obscure and part of it is covered with construction material. The rickshaws mainly ferries passengers to the Library More (crossing), where the Mussoorie bus stand is located.
Camel Rock, Mussoorie
The rickshaw also provides leisure rides to tourists covering a few spots within the town. The rickshaw follows a circular route with stops at certain points of interest.
First is the Hawa Mahal (Google map location) contrary to the name there is no mahal but just a pavilion, where tourists can enjoy the hawa (wind) along with great views of the mountains.
After Hawa Mahal, the route follows the Camel Back Road, which has a slight upward incline.
In some stretches the rickshaw puller has to pull his vehicle up. The road leads to the Camel Back Road Cemetery (Google map location), which consists of a Parsi and Christian section. The Parsi section has a small gate with the year 1920 mentioned on it. While the Christian section has a grand gateway complete with pointed arches and a tower topped with a wind vein.
My wife Debjani and my daughter Rupsha preferred to walk, while the rickshaw is pushed up the slope
Sadly, both cemeteries are locked at and views from the gate show that they are not maintained.
A sign next to the Christian cemetery gate narrates the history of cemeteries in Mussoorie.
It mentions that the Camel Back Road Cemetery came up in 1829 and houses the mortal remains of John Hindmarsh, one of the 100 survivors of the brigade immortalised by Lord Tennyson’s Charge of the Light Brigade.
The other notable personalities include Fredrick (Raja) Wilson, who settled in Harsil in Uttarakhand and made a fortune through the trade of timber. Also included in the list is John Lang, an Australian lawyer, who represented Rani Laxmibai in a lawsuit against the British. Sadly, the locked doors have kept the amazing history out of bounds.
Mussoorie Rickshaw Ride
Further south of the cemeteries, the road leads to the Camel Back Rock (Google map location), after which the road is named. It consists of jumbled-up rocks in the form of a camel hump, complete with neck and head. The area also provides a great view of Mussoorie town. There are telescopes on rent offering closer views of the panoramic landscape. After Camel Back Rock, the road rises steeply and passengers have to get off the rickshaw for the rickshaw wallah to pull up his vehicle. The steep climb ends at the mall road, ending the trip.
Necessary information:
- The trip takes about one and half hours, which include a tea break and stops
- The charges are usually ₹600 for two adults and a child, however there is no fixed rate
