PRAGUE: TWO ROOSTERS, ONE YARD
Prague has always known how to make beer. What it’s had to learn — slowly, reluctantly, with the particular stubbornness of a culture that doesn’t take instruction well — is how to reinvent it. The pilsner was born here. Or close enough. In 1842, in Plzeň, sixty kilometers west of the city, a Bavarian brewer named Josef Groll dumped pale malt into a copper kettle and accidentally…
