Smith Island is an archipelago located approximately 10 miles off the coast of Crisfield, Maryland. With a population of around 276 people (2010 census) spread over 4.5 square miles of habitable land space, you might think that there is nothing to do. However, adventure is all in the eyes of the beholder. The island is a playground for the curious explorer and nature lover. There are countless things to do on Smith Island.
Before I get into all the cool activities, which is why you are reading this article, it is important for visitors to know that Smith Island is a place of residence, not a tourist attraction. Villagers are not interested in attracting tourists to their island with fancy tours, trendy food, and boutique shops, they are just living their lives and welcoming you to experience it. When you arrive, engage with the community, appreciate the small things in life, and enjoy each moment. That’s what it is all about.
We spent three days on Smith Island, kayaking between the three towns of Ewell, Rhode’s Point, and Tylerton. During our time there we had the opportunity to speak with watermen, innkeepers, and island women who would bake Smith Island cakes, the official dessert of Maryland.
Here are some of the highlights of our trip as well as other popular things to do on Smith Island.
Kayak around the creeks and inlets surrounding the island
Smith Island is a kayaker’s dream. To put this in perspective, Smith Island is about 9.2 square feet, 4.5 of which is land and the remainder of which is comprised of marshy waterways and inlets. Take your kayak down to the remote village of Tylerton (about a 2.25 trip) or just paddle through the “guts” of the island among tall grass and wild birds. Paddle Smith Island has a great kayaking guide and map outlining recommended routes along Smith Island.
Kayakers be warned, the waterways are highly subject to the
daily tides. While we were paddling along the Tylerton-Ewell Run route at
sunset, the water quickly began to recede. We were forced farther and farther
away from the shore where the water was deep enough for us to continue on.
Luckily we made it back, but always be conscious of wind and tide when planning
your trip.
Visit the Smith Island Crabmeat Co-op
While you are down at Tylerton, be sure to visit the Smith Island Crabmeat Co-op. This small business was formed by the wives of the watermen who wake up each morning to harvest crab and oysters around the Chesapeake. Unlike most crab processing facilities, this Co-op picks and packages the entire crab in one container – claw, backfin, lumps and all.
Watch through an observation window where the women work side by side to process the freshly caught Maryland crab. You can also pay $3 to enter the main area where crabs are picked clean, giving you the opportunity to ask questions and even sample the freshest crabmeat around.
Try Smith Island Cake
Smith Island Cake, a recipe dating back to the 1800’s, is the official dessert for the state of Maryland. Traditionally, the cake consists of 8-10 thin layers of yellow cake with a fudge frosting slathered between each layer and then coated over the entire cake. New versions have emerged including Devil’s Food cake with dark chocolate fudge frosting and dark chocolate cake with peanut butter fudge frosting.
There are four main eateries on Smith Island: Bayside Inn, Harborside Grocery, Smith Island Bakery, and Drum Point Market. Each has their own recipe made by a different island woman. Try a piece at all four locations and see if you can choose a favorite.
Try the crabcakes
Knowing that the main occupation on the island is crabbing, it only makes sense that you should try the crab cakes at all the eateries including the co-op.
Pro Tip: When you visit Bayside Inn, go all in and order the family-style luncheon. Not only are you served fresh crab cakes, but you are also served the Smith Island stewed tomatoes, a traditional recipe local to the island. I have never had tomatoes cooked like these and they were without a doubt the highlight of the meal.
Admittedly, we tried the fried chicken at Harborside Grocery
rather than the crab. They must not be used to people ordering anything other
than the crab cakes, because they told us “It will be about an hour for the
chicken so that we have time to take it out of the freezer to thaw.” We ended
up eating some Smith Island Cake while we waited so it was a win-win situation.
Visit the Smith Island Cultural Center Museum
The Smith Island Cultural Center Museum may be small, but it is well-organized and full of interesting history. Upon entering, you are seated to watch a brief documentary highlighting the history, culture and everyday life on the island. One of the coolest things was actually recognizing some of the people on the video. With Smith Island being only 2 miles long, you run into the same people constantly. Seeing the woman who lent us her bicycle air pump the day prior, now on the screen talking about crabbing was an exciting experience.
Following the video, visitors can take a peek around the
museum viewing cultural artifacts and bits of Smith Island history including crabbing
items, religious books, and skipjack models.
Send a postcard from the post office
The family-run post office in Ewell is quite possibly one of the smallest and most charming that you will ever see. We were told that mail is delivered by boat twice a day, yet we still couldn’t imagine that there wouldn’t be some sort of delay in the delivery time given the remoteness of Smith Island. We decided to test this theory out and send 2 postcards to my niece and nephew in Virginia. Lo and behold, one postcard arrived 3 days after being sent. The second postcard, which was sent at the same time, arrived about a week later.
Fun fact: the post office is also the only place on the island where you will see a Christmas tree year-round.
Find the hidden beach on the nature reserve
While moseying around Rhode’s Point, the southern tip of the island, we chatted with a local who mentioned a hidden beach on Martin National Wildlife Refuge. We learned that this place is a hidden gem for locals who enjoy packing a picnic and splashing in the water. Having only a kayak and running out of daylight, we did not have the opportunity to search for the beach. If you happen to find this beach, do let us know!
Related Content: Adventurous Day Trips from Washington DC
Visit Goat Island
Biggest regret of the trip? Not visiting goat island! Honestly, we completely forgot that this was a thing. Scott and I love pygmy goats with their cute little hops and tiny legs, so of course we were thrilled to learn that there were over 30 wild goats inhabiting a small piece of land across from Ewell.
Because it is not a formal attraction there is nothing marketing “goat island” so once we were there, it completely slipped our mind. On a side note, this island is actually up for sale. For $1.5 million, you can own a 55-acre island in the Chesapeake, complete with 30 wild goats ready to be your friend.
Get your hair done at the one salon, Island Styles
While relaxing on Smith Island, you might as well pamper
yourself with a new ‘do and set of nails. Island Styles is the one and only salon
on the island, ready to fulfill all of your beauty needs.
Contact: Laura Evans
410-425-4881 | [email protected]
Visit the antique store
There are no strip malls or trendy boutiques, but there is
an antique store. Located steps away from Harborside Grill in Ewell, the shop
is owned and operated by a Smith Island resident out of his own home. Step
inside and you will find a hodgepodge of miniature collector’s spoons, eclectic
furniture, and vintage toys. All prices are negotiable.
Take your bike across the island to Rhode’s Point
Smith Island is a dream for kayakers, but also for bicyclists. With almost no cars on the island, you can enjoy a leisurely bike ride across the island without the fear of being sideswiped by a vehicle. The ride from Ewell to Rhode’s Point is about 2 miles along one flat open road. Most Airbnb’s and Inns have a selection of bicycles and kayaks for guests to use at no cost. If by chance, all the bicycles are rusted out or have flat tires, there are rentals available by Bayside Inn.
Charter a boat
If the ride to Smith Island tickled your fancy for another boat adventure, you can book a private charter tour. Sunset cruises are available to catch the sun slowly setting into the Chesapeake Bay. Also available are photo expeditions and nature tours where you can observe the large variety of wild birds inhabiting Martin National Wildlife Refuge.
Finally, there is also the popular fishing adventure where you are likely to catch some of the bay’s tastiest fish including striped bass, bluefish, croaker, flounder, black drum, rockfish, and sea trout.
Attend a church service
Religion plays an important role in the lives of many islanders. On 4.5 square miles of land, there are no police stations and no official town government, but there are in fact 3 churches. Each of the three Smith Island communities has its own Methodist church where local decisions are made, providing both political and religious cohesion.
Rev. Charles Richard Edmund, the only pastor on the island for 10 years, preaches at all three locations every Sunday. Residents are eager to share their faith with others and welcome visitors to join any of their services.
Ewell United Methodist Church – Main Service at 9 AM Sundays
Tylerton United Methodist Church – Main Service at 10:45 AM Sundays
Calvary Methodist Church in Rhodes Point – Main Service at 12 noon Sundays
Rent a golf cart to see the island
While you may find a few vehicles on the roads, the main modes of transportation on the island are by foot, bicycle, and golf cart. Head on over to Bayside Inn where you can rent a golf cart for up to 2.5 hours. You can easily walk across the island in a few hours; You can bike it in about an hour; and with a golf cart you can see everything in about 20 minutes. Therefore, this is an ideal option if you are short on time.
I will go ahead and give an advanced warning that the company restricts where you can go depending on the time of day due to rising tides. When the water levels are up, the main road connecting Ewell and Rhode’s Point becomes flooded and impassable.
Watch a sunset in the middle of the bay
We had the absolute pleasure of watching the sunset over the Chesapeake Bay while on a kayak in front of the Tylerton dock. This was the ideal location to capture an unimpeded view of the rich colors setting into the water. Witnessing a sunset from Smith Island where the land is flat and construction is minimal, gives you a clear panoramic view of sunsets which are hard to compare.
Pick up some souvenirs at Bayside Gifts
Aside from the aforementioned antique shop, the other place for you to pick up a Smith Island momento is at the Bayside Inn gift shop. Located inside the restaurant, you can peruse a selection of handcrafted items as well as branded t-shirts, hats, and other souvenirs.
Get up super early and watch the watermen in action
If you are
an early riser, and I mean early, you can wake up to watch the watermen as they
start their work at 4 am. The docks are filled with crab traps and bustling boats
preparing to leave. A few hours later, the crab shanties, which are otherwise
quiet and empty, are filled with the day’s freshest catch. Sleep in and you
could miss all of this activity which is central to the Smith Island way of life.
Many people ask “can you stay overnight on Smith Island”. The answer is yes and it is highly recommended to experience the breathtaking sunset over the bay! While there are no hotels on Smith Island, there are a handful of cottages and B&Bs. These historic homes are typically right on the water with access to kayaks, bicycles, and other amenities to help you explore the island.
Bizzy’s Bungalow
This little bungalow is one of the cutest places to stay on Smith Island. Although built in 1925, the house maintains many of its original features adding to the character of the home. Guests will enjoy riding the provided bicycles and seasonal golf cart around the island.
Everything from the kitchen and Kitchenaid stand mixer, to the bedsheets and the golf cart come in a soft pink color. You’ll fall in love with Bixy’s soft pink accents and vintage charm. Bixy’s Bungalow has 2 bedrooms and 1 bathroom.
The Pearl on Smith Island
The Pearl is a completely restored 1900’s Eastern Shore Farmhouse. It is spacious with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a living room, a dining room, and a well-stocked kitchen. The dock is a short 4-minute walk from the house where you’ll find 3 kayaks available for use during your stay. The Pearl is an ideal stay for families and those traveling by boat who need a place to dock.
Frequently Asked Questions about Visiting Smith Island, Maryland
What is Smith Island known for?
Smith Island is known for its amazing people, unique culture, and beautiful wildlife. It is also known for being the birthplace of Maryland’s official dessert! People come to Smith Island to experience the simple life of Chesapeake watermen.
How do you get to Smith Island?
Smith Island is only accessible by boat, adding to the charm of this unique destination. There are two departure locations: Crisfield and Point Lookout. From there, the ferry typically takes around 50 minutes.
How much does it cost to get to Smith Island?
The simple ferry to Smith Island costs around $20 each way. Look for Captain Jason.
Smith Island Cruises also offer site-seeing excursions which stop on Smith Island before returning to the main land on the same day. These cruises cost anywhere from $16 for children to $60 for adults.
Can you kayak around Smith Island?
Smith Island is a prime destination for kayaking, however it is important to keep in mind the tides. We paddled 2 miles down to Tylerton just fine, however as we paddled back with the sunset we found it harder and harder to paddle. It didn’t take long for us to realize that the bottom of our kayak was now scraping against the bottom of the inlet. Luckily, the center of the inlet provided enough depth for us to make it back to Ewell, however, we might not have been so lucky had we left an hour later.
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