Throughout history, jewelry has been a way for people to express identity, status, and sentiment. Among the most poignant examples is mourning jewelry—powerful mementos of love, grief, and remembrance. The tradition of mourning jewelry dates back to ancient civilizations, when people used various forms of jewelry to honor and remember the dead. Often adorned with symbols of mortality and sentiment, these pieces served as keepsakes and enduring tributes to the departed.
The History of Mourning Rings
There is evidence in the archaeological record and historical references to mourning jewelry in ancient Egypt and Rome. However, the origin of mourning rings as we know them is generally traced to the late Renaissance. They gained widespread popularity during the Georgian and Victorian eras. Initially, these rings were crafted as part of the funeral tradition. They were often left as bequests to loved ones in the will of the deceased, ensuring that close family members and friends received a tangible keepsake of their dearly departed.
By the 17th century, mourning rings had become much more personalized. They often featured the name, date of death, and age of the deceased engraved on the band. Wealthier families commissioned intricate designs with gold, enamel, and gemstones, while middle- and lower-class families opted for simpler versions.
Their Significance in Life and Legacy
The practice of commissioning mourning rings was especially prominent during times of high mortality, such as the plagues and wars of early modern Europe.
Mourning rings were more than mere tokens of grief. They were a way to honor the memory of loved ones and a reminder that life is finite and precious. For those left behind, wearing a mourning ring was a deep and personal act of remembrance. For the deceased, who left the rings behind for their loved ones, it was an act of generosity and care that ensured their memory endured within their family and, often, in the case of public figures, their community.
Types of Mourning Rings
Mourning ring designs varied greatly, reflecting the tastes and beliefs of the era. For the purpose of this article, the three most prominent periods are listed below.
Renaissance Mourning Rings (14th to the 17th centuries)
Rings from this period often featured the name and death date of the deceased engraved on the band. In medieval Europe, designs tended toward religious symbols and the afterlife. Crosses, saints, and angels were popular motifs. Many rings featured a classical theme and a focus on humanism. Elaborate designs, portrait miniatures, cameos and intaglios, and intricate symbolism were also desirable. While mourning rings were not yet widespread, they were worn by some, primarily those with the financial wherewithal to have them produced.
Georgian Mourning Rings (1714–1830)
These rings often featured macabre motifs or sentimental imagery. Memento mori rings included skulls, skeletons, and coffins. Hairwork rings incorporated the hair of the deceased and were often intricately designed and combined with materials such as gold and enamel (depending upon one’s social status). Black enamel rings were commonly used to signify mourning, while white enamel connoted the death of an unmarried person or a child. Those with the financial means to afford them often commissioned rings featuring miniature portraits of the deceased painted on ivory or vellum.
Victorian Mourning Rings (1837–1901)
Under Queen Victoria, mourning jewelry reached its peak. Black jet gemstone rings were very popular during this time. Onyx was also frequently used. Similar to the Georgian period, hair work rings, in which the hair was intricately woven into patterns and incorporated into the rings. Symbolic rings, also popular, included mourning designs such as weeping willows, urns, and angels.
A Modern Day Find
A poignant example is the more than 330-year-old mourning ring discovered on a farm near Shillingstone, Dorset, in 2021 by metal detectorist Anthony Woolmington. Woolmington initially handed the ring to the farmer, unaware of its historical significance. The farmer’s son delved into its origins, leading to a collaborative investigation by the Dorset History Centre, the British Museum, and Hansons Auctioneers. Their research revealed that the ring commemorates a death over 300 years ago. Inscribed on the inside of the band are the initials “ML” and the date “23rd April 1692,” alongside a maker’s mark—a Gothic capital “B”—which dates its creation to the same year.
Helen Smith, head of jewelry at Hansons Auctioneers, described the find as “truly remarkable,” noting that mourning rings in England were often crafted during times of great personal and national loss, such as the English Civil War and the execution of Charles I. Smith praised the ring (which will head to auction on February 27, 2025), as a testament to the artistry and deeply personal symbolism of 17th-century jewelry.
Modern Mourning Jewelry
Modern mourning jewelry has adapted to contemporary attitudes, blending traditional symbols with innovative designs. A notable trend is cremation jewelry, which incorporates a small amount of the deceased’s ashes into pieces like pendants, rings, or earrings. These items create a tangible connection to lost loved ones, reflecting a growing need for physical mementos in a digital age. Ashes can be integrated by mixing with resin or glass or sealing in a discreet compartment, offering a deeply personal way to honor and remember the departed.
Mourning Rings in Modern Collecting
Today, mourning rings are considered quite collectible by collectors and history enthusiasts. Their unique designs, combined with their deeply emotional past, make them fascinating artifacts of the human experience. Each ring tells a story—not just of death but of love, memory, and the everlasting connections between people across time.
The recent discovery of the 330-year-old mourning ring in Great Britain reminds us that these pieces are not just historical relics to be studied or viewed in a museum. They are remnants of lives once lived. Whether carefully preserved in a museum or passed down through generations, mourning rings offer a timeless window into the collective human journey in life and death.
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Queen Victoria’s Mourning Jewelry