I’d first heard the word ‘hammam’ back when I was a baby blogger in 2013 and many of the travellers I was following were writing about Turkey. Their stories were intriguing and also, to this introvert, slightly horrifying. Getting naked and lying on a marble slab while a topless woman scrubs you down? *shudder*
A hammam is a traditional steam bath common in Morocco and other parts of the Middle East and North Africa. It involves a cleansing ritual where you relax in a steam room, followed by exfoliation with black soap and scrubbing, and sometimes a massage. Hammams have cultural significance as places for both hygiene and socializing, and they offer a rejuvenating experience that promotes relaxation and skin health.
So when I saw that there was an optional hammam experience at Les Bains de Marrakech as part of my yoga retreat in Marrakech I was conflicted. While I generally try to say yes to all experiences abroad, the whole partial nudity bit made me anxious. I’m North American after all. And it wasn’t cheap at $90 USD for the 2 hour experience.
So I hemmed and hawed about it and in the end decided that maybe I’d book something different when I got there or maybe I’d just skip it altogether and have extra shopping or pool time. Well…
An Unexpected Hammam
It was the last full day of our week long retreat and I’d decided to take the van into Marrakech with the others but I never did book a hammam experience. I was going to do some shopping while the others had their steam and scrub. I figured I’d walk with the group though just to see where the hammam was located. As we got near Heather, my roommate from the Portugal yoga retreat, told me that one of our retreat-mates had decided not to go after all so there was a free spot available if I wanted to come with them after all. Like, already paid for free spot.
At first I said “No, no, that’s ok.” but with a bit more gentle persuasion I decided to go with my house motto, “F*#% it, why not?” Seemed like fate/the universe decided I should have this experience.
An Oasis of Tranquility
Make no mistake, Les Bains de Marrakech isn’t a typical local hammam. It was designed for luxurious Western sensibilities. It’s a little oasis of tranquillity right in the Marrakech medina. There is no large common room like some community hammams. Instead they have more private spaces. It felt like the best hammam in Marrakech for someone like me to experience the tradition for the first time.
After check-in we were ushered to a change room and given robes and rubber slides. In an act of nervous modesty I decided to leave my underwear on. After our group emerged in our robes we were brought to a beautiful poolside courtyard and given glasses of sweet Moroccan tea. Let the relaxing begin.
Tea drank, we were escorted to various hammam rooms: a private cabin, a couples cabin, and myself and two retreat-mates into a shared cabin designed for four people.
Soak & Steam
The cabin was low-ceilinged, marble-covered, warm and humid. It felt like a cross between a wine cellar, a sauna, and an extra large walk-in shower. Along two walls were hip-high raised platforms with four thin waterproof mats and pillows. We were each ushered to one of the mats and then the attendants took our robes and instructed us to lie down on the platform. Ok, so we’re doing this…
I laid down and alternated between closing my eyes and staring at the ceiling feeling a bit vulnerable. First order of business was to rinse us down with the hose attached to each station and let the steam do its magic. I don’t like having my face underwater (maybe I drowned in a past life) and my attendant seemed very confused when I shot up sputtering after she sprayed water over my head. She got me a towel but I could tell that she thought I was over-reacting. Not off to an auspicious start.
Black Soap Time
In between each step, the attendants would leave the cabin for a few minutes and let us steam. I started to mellow out. The attendants are pros and do this day in and day out so the whole topless thing really became no big deal. Quite liberating actually.
The second step in the hammam was to cover us in black soap before letting us steam again. By this second steam session I started to feel a bit like a marinating chicken, especially being covered in paste.
Moroccan black soap is a natural, plant-based soap made primarily from olives and olive oil, with added eucalyptus for fragrance. The thick, dark paste is a key part of the Hammam experience, used to soften the skin before exfoliation. When applied to damp skin, it works as a gentle cleanser and prepares the skin for the kessa glove scrub, which removes dead skin cells.
Scrub & Rinse
Then it was time for the main attraction – the scrub down. I’d heard stories before about how every inch of you is scrubbed and you essentially leave down one layer of skin. I wasn’t sure if this was a good thing or not.
Having primed our skin, the attendant broke out a new scrubbie, aka kessa glove, and went to town like I was covered in baked on cheese and it was dish time. I have to admit, it wasn’t painful, but maybe just a bit uncomfortable at times. Though it was a little unsettling to see all the grey bits of skin that had been sloughed off.
A kessa glove is a textured exfoliating mitt made from a coarse fabric designed to remove dead skin cells and deeply cleanse the skin. After applying Moroccan black soap, the kessa glove is used to scrub the skin, revealing smoother and softer skin underneath. Its unique texture allows for effective exfoliation without being too abrasive, making it a key part of the traditional Moroccan bathing ritual.
Scrubbing done, we got one more good rinse with the hose and then we were towelled off and given back our robes and slides. We were brought to a room with loungers and served up more mint tea and cookies. We spent 10 to 15 minutes here relaxing and sharing our thoughts on the experience.
Massage With a Side of Modesty Theatre
Next up was a massage, which I’m always game for. Whether it’s for relaxation or therapeutic I always feel better after a massage. I had a private room for this part of the experience so when my masseuse told me to take off my robe and put on the provided paper thong while she left the room it didn’t seem like a big deal.
For a conservative country nudity in the hammam really is no big deal. The paper thong really covered nothing but at least made you feel like you were wearing something. Modesty theatre. By the way, men were given giant disposable boxers for their services.
The massage itself was great and very relaxing. Just enough pressure to work out some knots but not so much that I was sore the next day. The massage oil after the hammam scrub left my skin feeling smoother and softer than I can ever remember.
Finally, I was led to a bright white room with soaring ceilings and tall curtains creating semi-private lounge areas and a small fountain bubbling away in the centre. Another glass of mint tea and cookies were served.
From here it was back to the change room to transition back to the real world. Since I hadn’t come prepared for visiting the hammam I hadn’t brought any extra clothes of any sort so I resorted to having to blow dry my underwear that had gotten soaked by being sprayed with so much water in the hammam. Oh well. Small price for a transformative experience, but if I visited again I’d either wear swimsuit bottoms or just go with the flow and put on the paper thong.
Simple Joy at New Experiences
As I left Les Bains de Marrakech, my skin was soft, my mind refreshed, and I felt a little freer than before. By pushing past my initial hesitation and embracing the unfamiliar, I’d opened myself up to an experience that was equal parts soothing and empowering. I didn’t just walk out of the hammam feeling physically renewed; I carried with me a reminder of the beauty in stepping beyond comfort zones, one rinse, scrub, and sip of mint tea at a time.
Find Your Own Hammam Experience in Marrakech
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does a hammam cost in Marrakech?
The cost of a Hammam in Marrakech varies widely. Traditional local Hammams can cost around 50-100 MAD (5-10 USD), while more upscale, tourist-focused Hammams or those in luxury hotels can range from 300-600 MAD (30-60 USD) or more, depending on the services and treatments included.
What do you wear to the hammam in Marrakech?
In a traditional Hammam in Marrakech, patrons typically wear just underwear or go nude in same-gender areas, while swimsuits are required in mixed-gender Hammams. In more upscale or tourist-focused Hammams, wearing a swimsuit is generally the norm regardless of gender segregation. It’s always a good idea to bring a cover-up and flip-flops for comfort and hygiene.
What should I expect during a hammam experience?
In a traditional Moroccan Hammam, you can expect a multi-step process that begins with relaxing in a steam room to open your pores. You’ll then be coated in black soap made from olives and eucalyptus, which is left on for a few minutes to soften the skin. After this, an attendant will scrub your body with a kessa glove, removing dead skin. The next step often involves rinsing and application of rhassoul clay or another natural mask, followed by a final rinse. The experience typically concludes with a massage using argan oil or another moisturizing product. The entire process can take anywhere from 1 to 2 hours.
What are the customs and etiquette to follow in a hammam?
Respecting local customs is important. In traditional Hammams, men and women usually have separate areas or different times for their sessions. Nudity is common in same-gender Hammams, but in mixed-gender settings, wearing a swimsuit is the norm. It’s important to be quiet and respectful of others’ privacy. Follow the instructions of the Hammam staff and be mindful of personal space. Tipping is customary for good service, so having some cash on hand is advisable.
How do I choose the best hammam in Marrakech?
To choose the right Hammam, consider whether you want a traditional, local experience or a more luxurious, spa-like environment. Traditional Hammams are often less expensive and offer a more authentic experience, while upscale Hammams in hotels or dedicated spas provide additional comforts and services. Reading reviews online and seeking recommendations from locals or other travellers can help you find a highly-rated Hammam. Some popular choices in Marrakech include Hammam de la Rose, Les Bains de Marrakech, and the Heritage Spa.
