A serene, design-led sanctuary with serious culinary credentials
There’s something quietly magical about the Viceroy Riviera Maya. Set deep within the emerald folds of jungle just north of Playa del Carmen, this boutique resort feels like the Riviera Maya’s best-kept secret – a place where the aesthetic restraint of a luxury hideaway meets the soulful ease of a beachside retreat. I’ve stayed here recently, and honestly, I almost don’t want to share it so it remains one of the region’s best kept secrets.
Unlike the sprawling all-inclusives that line the coast, the Viceroy’s 41 villas feel deeply personal. Each one is enveloped by thick greenery and designed to make you forget the world beyond your thatched roof.
My villa came with a shaded terrace, an outdoor rain shower, a hammock for long, lazy afternoons, and a heated plunge pool that felt like it belonged on a Conde Nast Traveller cover. The interiors exude a quiet elegance – natural stone floors, woven Mayan fabrics, dark woods – with a design language that feels far closer to boho-chic Tulum than high-gloss Cancun.
And it’s not just the design that feels elevated – it’s the experience. From the moment you arrive in the open reception foyer framed by jungle either side, there’s an energy here that’s grounded and real. A shamanic blessing replaces the usual welcome drink.
There’s no lobby spectacle or piped-in music — just birdsong, breeze, and a staff that seem to intuitively understand when to appear and when to melt into the background. Isn’t that what true luxury is all about now? The truth is, Viceroy Riviera Maya has been doing this for more than ten years, and was one of the true pioneers of laid back luxury a decade ago.
The layout of the resort encourages quiet exploration. Winding jungle paths lead to a beautifully kept main pool, a cabana-framed slice of calm that overlooks the Caribbean. The beach, though modest in size, is unspoiled and tranquil – with loungers tucked under palms and the kind of service that makes a cocktail appear right when you realise you’re thirsty.
The beach front also gives way to a couple of sea view villas that throw away the jungle vibe for the true epitome of Riviera lifestyle.
Yet for all its visual beauty and understated luxury, what really surprised me was the culinary offering. The resort’s two restaurants – La Marea and Coral Restaurant + Bar – aren’t just resort dining venues; they’re culinary destinations in their own right. La Marea, perched above the beach, leans into contemporary Mexican cuisine with a deeply respectful nod to local flavours and techniques.
My dinner there was a standout: fresh tamales served with a smoky mole, octopus grilled to perfection over coals, and a cochinita pibil so tender it barely held together under the fork. Every dish felt personal – elevated but grounded, with stories in the flavours.
Down at Coral, the vibe shifts to beachside informality. This is where I had a breezy lunch of shrimp tacos and ceviche, toes in the sand and mezcal margarita in hand. The menu feels simple at first glance, but each ingredient is chosen with care. Local seafood shines, as do seasonal vegetables and house-made salsas that hum with heat and citrus.
What’s most exciting though is how the resort is embracing culinary collaboration. On July 5th, they’re hosting a four-hands dinner that promises to be a landmark event. The evening will pair Pedro Evia – the visionary behind Mérida’s renowned K’u’uk, and arguably the leading light of modern Yucatecan cuisine – with Chef Alejandro Salgado, the Viceroy’s own culinary director. Together, they’ll craft a menu that honours ancestral Mayan techniques while pushing the boundaries of contemporary Mexican dining. For a boutique resort to pull off this level of culinary ambition is impressive, and it says a lot about Viceroy’s commitment to offering something truly special.
Pedro Evia, if you don’t know the name already, is a culinary alchemist. Self-taught and globally celebrated, he’s known for weaving avant-garde technique into traditional Yucatecan recipes making him not just a chef, but a custodian of regional identity. Meanwhile, Alejandro Salgado brings a more subtle hand to the table, his dishes at the Viceroy are marked by refined technique, seasonal sensitivity, and a genuine passion for Mexican culinary heritage. Together, the partnership feels like a masterstroke and just one more reason this boutique hotel is punching well above its weight.
Of course, while Playa del Carmen is just minutes away, and the ruins and cenotes of Tulum make for easy day trips, it’s hard to peel yourself away from the resort. There’s something incredibly seductive about the privacy here the quiet paths, the rustling palms, the soft flicker of lanterns at night. You’re not being entertained; you’re being left alone, but in the best possible way. That kind of freedom is luxury.
The Viceroy Riviera Maya is, to me, the definition of what a modern, design-savvy, experience-led hotel should be. It’s small, soulful, beautifully styled and deeply connected to the place it inhabits. Whether you come for the food, the serenity, or simply to disappear for a few days in your own jungle hideaway, it delivers quietly, confidently, and without compromise.
viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/riviera-maya
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