Based on the Isle of Mull, Tobermory is one of the distilleries in Scotland that produces two distinct styles of whisky: unpeated, and peated. Tobermory is the name of their unpeated whisky, while Ledaig is the name of their peated line.
The distillery shares its name with the picturesque harbour town of Tobermory, where it is located. It’s the only distillery on the island which is situated north of Islay and Jura. The town of Tobermory is known for its colourful buildings, and Tobermory-branded whiskies reflect this feature of the town in their colourful packaging design (with yellow, green, red and purple labels).
In contrast, Ledaig-branded whiskies are available in bottles with more muted, earthy colouring (hinting at the more earthy and peaty flavours one can expect from the whisky itself). The proximity of the distillery to the sea is also meant to lend Ledaig (and Tobermory) a subtle maritime or briny flavour profile.
The name “Ledaig” (pronounced “Letch-ick”) comes from the Gaelic for “safe haven” – a reference to the location of the distillery on the coast, but also a nod to the previous name of the distillery.
Established by John Sinclair in 1798 (with this year proudly emblazoned on the glass bottles of both Tobermory and Ledaig), Tobermory distillery is technically one of the oldest distilleries in Scotland. Yet it has had a turbulent history. It has suffered multiple closures and changes of ownership over the years. It halted production in 1837, and was put up for sale a number of times. After a significant period of dormancy, the distillery resumed operations in 1972, only to end up closing again until 1989. In the 1990s, under the ownership of Burn Stewert Distillers, the distillery finally gained some stability and began to flourish again. Burn Stewert Distillers, a subsidiary of the Distell Group Limited, are still the current owners of the distillery and brand.
The two whiskies that form part of the peated Ledaig core range are the 10-year-old and the 18-year-old. There are, however, a number of other limited and special Ledaig releases too, finished in a variety of interesting cask types, or at varying ages and ABV levels.
Peating whisky was originally a necessity rather than a choice. In certain areas (like Islay, or the Isle of Mull) other fuel sources were often scarce, so whisky makers used peat to dry their barley. Today, it’s a deliberate choice that distilleries make in order to create specific flavour profiles in their whisky.
The peat used by Tobermory distillery used to be sourced from the Isle of Mull, but this is no longer the case. Many peat bogs in Scotland are now protected environments, and the use of peat is strictly monitored. There are also a number of restoration projects which are underway to preserve Scotland’s peatlands. Reportedly, only around 1% of the total amount of the peat that is extracted in the UK is actually used for Scotch whisky production, but distilleries are now more mindful of the need to strike a balance between tradition and environmental responsibility.
Scotland is not the only country to produce peated whisky, and there are actually an increasing number of distilleries throughout the world that are now looking more seriously at alternatives to peat. Perhaps the most interesting of these is a distillery in Iceland which uses sheep dung to smoke their malted barley. Apparently, the use of sheep dung imparts a unique, earthy, and smoky flavour to the whisky – certainly something to keep an eye out for!
Returning to the more traditional peated whisky from Tobermory: I first received a bottle of Ledaig 10 as a gift last year from extended family who were visiting from the UK. This was the first time I’d ever actually seen a bottle of this whisky in person. Tobermory produces whisky in relatively small quantities, so perhaps it is not all that surprising that it took so long for me to come across a bottle. For a while it didn’t seem like I was able to find any whisky from Tobermory in my local market, but it’s recently begun to make a semi-regular appearance in more boutique whisky stores.
While it’s often out of stock in my local stores (a testament, I think, to its popularity), I am usually able to find a bottle of Ledaig 10 for around $67 (which is roughly the same price as a bottle of Bruichladdich’s The Classic Laddie). Ledaig 10 is aged in ex-bourbon casks, is non-chill filtered, natural colour, and bottled at 46.3% ABV – so it immediately ticks a lot of boxes that many whisky enthusiasts are looking for.
Ledaig 10 – Review
Colour: Golden honey.
On the nose: Fresh pineapples, green apples and crisp pears. There’s a distinctive peatiness, but this isn’t overwhelming. A richer and sweeter caramel note emerges, accompanied by the warming spice of cloves. There’s a subtle minerality in the background.
In the mouth: Rich and warming, with an exceptionally soft and silky texture. Strong medicinal peat. Perhaps the gentlest hint of slightly salty liquorice, and the slightest touch of menthol. There’s a sweet and aromatic note reminiscent of rose-flavoured Turkish Delight. Toasted marshmallows. Cherry tobacco, followed by some intensely dark chocolate.
Conclusion:
While the medicinal character of the peat in Ledaig 10 isn’t entirely aligned with my personal preferences, there’s no denying the quality and complexity of this whisky. I really enjoyed it. It offers a great combination of bold, smoky flavours and a delicate sweetness that keeps you coming back for another sip. The maritime influence, soft texture, and the variety of aromas and flavours make it a memorable expression. Ledaig 10 is certainly worth exploring for peat lovers – however, if you’re not a fan of peat, then this might not be the whisky for you.
