Robert E. Lee in color.
Confederate Soldiers’ Uniforms
At the onset of the conflict, soldiers of the Confederacy donned garments sourced from their homes and crafted from homespun materials. As the availability of fabric diminished, the primary supply of uniforms for Confederate troops came from Union uniforms that had been captured. These dark blue uniforms were boiled in a mixture containing walnut hulls, acorns, and lye, which resulted in a light tan hue that the Confederates referred to as “butternut.” Additionally, weathered and faded gray uniforms also adopted a light brownish tint.
In the initial stages of the conflict, many uniforms were adapted from those of state militias, which had their own designated uniforms. During the early confrontations, certain Confederate units donned dark blue uniforms, leading to frequent misidentification on the battlefield as they were often confused with Union forces.
The establishment of the depot system in early 1862 marked a significant shift, as it facilitated the mass production and distribution of uniforms to the troops. Before this development, the “commutation system” was in effect, allowing soldiers the option to have their uniforms tailored according to the new regulations set forth by the Confederate States of America, with the assurance of reimbursement from the Confederate government. The move towards mass production not only streamlined the process of outfitting soldiers but also reflected the growing logistical capabilities of the Confederate forces as the war progressed.
The choice of gray for Confederate uniforms was influenced by the cost-effectiveness of gray dye production. Furthermore, the typical uniform color for state militias was a variant of cadet gray, which proved unsuitable for combat due to its bright blue-gray tones that easily revealed a soldier’s position. In contrast, generals were not bound by such concerns and often wore elegant gray uniforms that they acquired at their own expense.
Contrary to the common belief that gray uniforms became less common in the Confederate army as the war progressed, the reality was quite the opposite. In 1863, the Confederacy began to procure ready-made uniforms from manufacturers located in England and Ireland. Among these suppliers, Peter Tait & Company of Ireland emerged as a significant uniform producer, successfully navigating the Union blockade to deliver their products to the Confederate forces.
The Confederacy had an ample supply of cotton for the production of uniforms; however, they also utilized wool and denim. Despite this variety, they lacked the resources to manufacture uniforms in the same large quantities as the Union. Consequently, Confederate uniforms often appeared different from each other, resulting in soldiers who frequently presented a diverse and mismatched appearance.
There are few photographs of Confederate soldiers that were taken in the field, as opposed to a studio. Perhaps the most famous photograph from the Civil War period is the image of three soldiers standing near a pile of lumber and a worn wagon taken soon after the Battle of Gettysburg. Scratched into the surface of one half of the stereo glass negative is written “rebel prisoners behind their breastwork.” It was not published in the August 22, 1863 Harper’s Weekly issue that did feature 11 engravings of Mathew Brady’s other photographs
A closer look at their uniforms reveals the soldiers to be much better dressed than tradition would have it. According to legend, the Battle of Gettysburg began when barefoot Confederates entered the town looking for shoes. But historian Richard Pougher has used this photograph as evidence that “the common Confederate soldier in the Army of Northern Virginia was well dressed in Southern military uniforms, well-shod, and well accoutered … He was not the ragged, barefoot, poorly equipped individual in nondescript mix-and-match clothing so many have come to see him as.”
Union Soldiers’ Uniforms
Since the Revolutionary War, American infantry has worn dark blue coats to distinguish themselves from the British Redcoats. During the Mexican War, these coats were complemented by pale blue trousers. However, with the onset of the Civil War and the need for mass production, the uniformity of dark blue became prevalent. The specific shade of blue used was known as Barlow’s indigo blue. Before the late 19th century, when Prussia perfected the mass production of inexpensive chemical dyes, natural indigo was significantly more costly than gray dyes.
Interestingly, the majority of indigo production occurred in the southern states, which led the Union forces to temporarily utilize logwood dyes. These dyes had the unfortunate tendency to turn brown when exposed to sunlight, resulting in many preserved uniforms featuring brown threads. The Union continued to rely on logwood for dyeing threads and other less expensive materials, as producing these dyes in the South was challenging due to resource limitations. Consequently, the darker blue-gray hue became synonymous with Confederate gray, as it was more readily available due to the blockade.
The factories in the Northern states possessed significant production capabilities, enabling them to manufacture high-quality wool uniforms for their military personnel. The soldiers of the United States were uniformly attired, presenting a cohesive appearance that reflected their well-organized outfitting. Union soldiers were equipped with a belt that secured various essential items, including a cap box, cartridge box, bayonet with scabbard, canteen, and a blanket roll containing a wool blanket, a shelter half, and a rubber blanket along with a poncho.
Zouaves
At the beginning of the war, volunteer militias tried to establish unique uniforms that would project a sense of flair and distinction. Some of the Northern militias chose to adopt elaborate red coats and trousers, drawing inspiration from the famed Zouave fighters of North Africa, recognized for their intricate uniforms embellished with tassels and their unconventional combat strategies. These elite units utilized tactics akin to light infantry, characterized by open formations, prone firing, and swift maneuvers. However, as the war continued, these specialized Zouave units gradually evolved into standard army formations, resulting in a loss of their distinctive characteristics.
The Union Army boasted over seventy Zouave regiments, while the Confederacy maintained approximately twenty-five Zouave companies throughout the war. Ironically, the uniforms of the Zouaves were considered “nonuniform,” as their procurement was neither straightforward nor cost-effective. Each regiment sported an oriental style of dress, yet the uniforms exhibited considerable variation due to the availability of materials and the preferences of commanding officers. Generally, the attire of the Zouave regiments bore a resemblance to that of the French Zouaves.
Other special units with distinctive uniforms included: Berdan’s sharpshooters wore green uniforms with matte buttons (to prevent glare); the 39th New York Infantry called the Garibaldi Guard wore puffy red shirts like Italian soldiers; and the New York 79th called the Highland Guard wore plaid clothes and cap to simulate Scottish Highlanders.
Generals and Other Officers
Confederate officers initially procured their uniforms through individual purchases, which were custom-tailored until the issuance of General Order 28 on March 6, 1864. This order permitted them to acquire uniforms from the same suppliers as the enlisted troops, and at cost. As a result, the uniforms reflected a range of personal styles: General Lee, representing the upper class, opted for the finest materials and craftsmanship, while General Pickett showcased a more flamboyant and distinctive appearance.
The insignia on the upright collar of full generals, lieutenant generals, major generals, and brigadier generals featured three stars embroidered in gold within a decorative wreath, with the central star being slightly larger than the others. While the collar insignia did not indicate the specific rank of the officer, the overcoats provided some distinction; major generals and lieutenant generals displayed two rows of nine buttons arranged in groups of three, whereas brigadier generals had two rows of eight buttons organized in pairs.
Buttons
Civil War Uniforms identified individual soldiers and the units they belonged to. Identification included buttons, colors, and rank markings.
