Nestled along the breathtaking Dalmatian coastline, Split, the second-largest city in Croatia, captivates all who visit with its stunning views of the Adriatic Sea and its rich history that whispers from medieval times. Ascend Marjan Hill for sweeping vistas, or lose yourself in the enchanting alleyways and remnants of Diocletian’s Palace.
While tourists flock to Split in the summer months, visits in the fall and spring are equally as magical, with shorter lines for attractions, easier reservations at trendy restaurants, lower prices for accommodations, and best of all—an abundance of gorgeous weather!
With a vibrant waterfront promenade, warm and welcoming locals, and delectable regional cuisine, it’s no wonder tourists are drawn to this exceptional city. Split serves as the perfect gateway to explore the beauty of Croatia, including the charming towns of Trogir and Šibenik, the spectacular waterfalls of Plitvice Lakes National Park, the island paradise of Hvar, and the remarkable ruins of Zadar.
Day 1: WELCOME TO SPLIT
Start your day outside the city walls with a visit to Pazar, the Green Market, where you can find an abundant variety of local produce, colorful flowers, dairy products, meats, and handmade goods. TIP: Saturday mornings are particularly lively.
Afterward, head back to town and check out the bright red Split sign for a picture-perfect view of the water and the Old City. It’s a great spot to snap some fun pictures and kick off a leisurely walk along the Riva, where you can admire the sailboats, and sip a coffee.
Split Food Tour
A highlight of our trip was the Split Food Tour with Dino, a local resident who expertly blended history, sightseeing, and culinary delights over the span of our four-hour experience. The food tour was so comprehensive that we didn’t need a separate educational walking tour to learn about the city’s highlights. With Dino, we passed the Statue of Gregory the Nin, Diocletian’s Palace, and Split’s various neighborhoods.
Our first stop featured a lavish charcuterie spread, including cheese from the island of Pag, perfectly-aged prosciutto, and pancetta. We then strolled to a beautiful eatery nestled beneath the atmospheric Roman arches of the ancient Diocletian’s Palace where we dug into a local speciality, black cuttlefish risotto, along with a delicious vegetarian option.
Next, we stepped back in time at a traditional konoba (a family-run restaurant) that served hearty pasticada, a Split-style beef stew with huge chunks of carrots and potato gnocchi in a rich and flavorful sauce. We toasted Živjeli to a long and healthy life with rakija, a drink similar to brandy, and later savored Bosnian burek pastries.
For a sweet finale, we ended at a gelateria known for innovative flavors and natural ingredients. We parted ways with the group with full bellies, new friends, and a greater appreciation for Dalmatian cuisine.
Afternoon Adventures in Split
For the rest of the day, embrace the adventure that suits your interests:
- Art lovers? Discover the Museum of Fine Arts, whose gallery houses Croatian art spanning the 14th century to today. Don’t miss the grand Ivan Meštrović Gallery, honoring Croatia’s most accomplished sculptor.
- Beach bums? Stroll to Bacvice Beach, offering a slow-paced slice of paradise all year round. Often the weather is warm enough to take a dip in the sea, even during shoulder season! This area especially thrives in the summer.
- Set out to sea? Explore various boat rides available throughout the summer, fall, and spring.
Cap off your day with a delicious dinner at one of these three top-rated restaurants (described below): Bokeria, Portofino, or Artičok. Afterward, enjoy the vibrant nightlife along the Riva, jam-packed with cocktails, live music, and pulsating house beats.
Day 2: TIME TRAVEL THROUGH OLD CITY
After igniting your curiosity about history, it’s time to dive deeper. We started our day by heading down into the cavernous and atmospheric historic cellars of Diocletian’s Palace.
Next, we visited the centrally-located Vestibule (aka The Rotunda) of the palace. I recommend stopping by this magical spot more than once, and if possible, both during the day and the night. Originally a foyer for Diocletian’s personal apartment, this spectacular space captures rays of sunshine through the striking hole in the ceiling, creating a truly enchanting atmosphere.
If you’re as lucky as us, you might stumble across a quartet of local singers and even a wedding party dancing around the bride and groom. After dusk, pass through again to gaze up at the shining stars against the dark sky.
Allot at least an hour or two to simply wander through the labyrinth of alleyways and plazas of Split, full of boutiques, eateries, and coffee shops. Every turn is a photographer’s dream.
Getting hungry? It’s time to stop into one of many family-run konobas or sample some street food, such as cevapi or burek, for an inexpensive lunch.
Afternoon Adventures
For the afternoon, choose your own adventure based on your interests:
- Visit the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, where you will find the burial site of Emperor Diocletian.
- Check out the Temple of Jupiter, which honors the Roman God Jupiter and features a headless Egyptian sphinx outside the entrance.
- Take a Games of Thrones tour to see many filming locations in town or drop into the Game of Thrones Museum.
- Take a day trip to Trogir. Only a 30-minute ride away, you will find yourself in a charming Venetian town surrounded by fortified medieval walls, picturesque Romanesque-Gothic architecture, and quaint winding streets. In just a two-hour visit, you can climb the imposing fortress walls, enjoy a coffee in the main square, and walk down the tree-lined waterfront promenade. This was our afternoon plan, and I highly recommend a visit.
Marjan Hill
As golden hour approached, we laced up our sneakers for a brisk 15-minute walk uphill to escape the city’s buzz and experience the magic of Marjan Hill at sunset. Along the way, we wandered through the Varoš neighborhood which is full of winding lanes and stone houses. TIP: If you prefer not to walk, you can take a ride share or tuk-tuk up the hill.
Once you reach the Marjan Hill viewpoint you will be rewarded with romantic, panoramic views of the city and the sparkling Adriatic Sea. On a clear day, you may even see some nearby islands. Take a moment to toast to your vacation at the open-air cafe at the top, Teraca Vidilica.
Before it gets dark, head back down to town to dine at one of Split’s top-recommended restaurants (detailed below). After dinner, visit the Café and Restaurant Lvxor, located in the heart of Diocletian’s Palace. This place is so much more than a café. As darkness falls over the city, seemingly everyone gathers here, often breaking into song and dance.
TIP: Sit on a red cushion if you want a member of the waitstaff to serve you drinks or food, or sit directly on the nearby stone steps if you would prefer to watch the festivities for free.
As night falls, the waterfront transforms into a lively scene filled with music and bars, reminiscent of Ocean Drive in Miami Beach. Even during mid-October when we visited, plenty of indoor and outdoor clubs were open for celebrations.
THREE FABULOUS DINNER OPTIONS
Choose among three top-rated restaurants that we loved and are sure to inspire your palate.
BOKERIA KITCHEN & WINE BAR
Diocletian’s Palace, Upscale, Spanish-Mediterranean
Inspired by Barcelona’s iconic La Boqueria market, Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Bar is a chic restaurant that engages all of the senses. Nestled in the heart of Old City, this modern oasis boasts a sleek interior, complemented by a view of the lively pedestrian zone outside. With a striking two-story bar and a grand dining room, the attentive staff enhances your dining experience. Your tastebuds will thank you for treating them to an innovative Spanish twist on Mediterranean dishes.
The bold drink menu offers something for everyone; we toasted with a Moscow Mule and a Paloma. The standout starters included the to-die-for bombolini stuffed with bechamel and prosciutto and a melt-in-your-mouth eggplant parmesan with homemade sauce and a blend of cheese.
For entrees, my husband loved the lamb shank with polenta and gorgonzola soufflé, while I relished the sea bass with grilled zucchini, sundried tomatoes, and cauliflower puree. We wished we could have also sampled their top-rated oxtail and black ink risotto. We fought over the last bite of the airy Basque-style cheesecake. Mmm!
PORTOFINO
Diocletian’s Palace, Upscale, Steak Pasta & Seafood
Located just a short walk from Peristil Square, Portofino invites you to its romantic stone courtyard in the historic Poljana Grgura Ninskog square. With exceptional service and a curated selection of Croatian wines and cocktails, the warm glow of fire lanterns creates a cozy ambiance. Whether you choose to dine under the stars or indoors overlooking the kitchen, the diverse menu delights everyone— from pasta lovers to seafood enthusiasts to steak aficionados.
We enjoyed an array of appetizers, including a beautifully arranged platter of Croatian and international cheeses, rich lobster bisque, and flambéed spicy jumbo shrimp with tantalizing heat (a must-order). Renowned for its steaks, Portofino excels with expertly-cooked filet mignon paired with au gratin potatoes and shiitake mushrooms in red wine demi-glace.
The decadent fettuccine with poached lobster and Istrian black truffles was a highlight. Save room for the exquisite desserts, including fruit tarts, tiramisu, and warm mascarpone cake, each promising to elevate your culinary journey.
ARTIČOK
Varoš Neighborhood, Casual, Mediterranean Cuisine
Artičok is a hidden gem that beautifully mixes art and cuisine. Named after the artichoke, its name playfully merges “ART” with “ČOK,” the Croatian word for a small bite. Located in the lively Varoš neighborhood, just minutes from the Riva, Artičok features a welcoming indoor space and a buzzy rooftop terrace with sweeping views.
Artičok’s playful atmosphere captures the essence of a modern art museum, with vintage films playing in the background, colorful graffiti all over the bar, and vibrant artwork against exposed brick.
The menu showcases inventive Dalmatian dishes. We started by sharing the signature dish: a whole artichoke heart served with a creamy puree of peas and broad beans, topped with sourdough croutons and prosciutto—heavenly!
For entrees, we sampled the tender, slow-cooked beef rib with potato mousse and vegetables, my husband’s favorite, and the popular ravioli filled with creamy cottage cheese aged in sheep’s leather, my top pick! Don’t forget to ask the waitstaff for wine recommendations and try their freshly made daily desserts.
WHERE TO STAY IN SPLIT
Wake up in a fairytale by booking at The Muram Heritage Hotel within the heart of Old Town with original walls of Diocletian’s Palace as actual walls in the hotel rooms! Enjoy luxurious modern accommodations, professional staff, and a delightful breakfast buffet with made-to-order items.
TIP: Pack light! If you are taking any catamarans to islands such as Korčula and Hvar, frequently there are weight and bag limits. Also if you opt to stay within the palace walls in Split, find a hotel like ours where the staff offers to meet you where you are dropped off (by boat or car at the edge of the city walls) to transport your bags to the hotel.
HOW TO GET TO AND FROM THE SPLIT AIRPORT
To make your travel experience hassle-free, consider booking a transfer with Octopus Transfers, which sends a professional driver in a luxury car to promptly pick you up and drive you directly to your final destination. Alternatively, consider booking a ride share.
HOW TO SAVE MONEY IN SPLIT
The Split Card, which provides free or discounted admission to many attractions, and also discounts at some of the city’s best restaurants, shops, and service providers, is provided for free if you stay at accommodations in the city (see the website for details to get the card for free).
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
This guest post was written by Lisa Grabelle. Lisa, a freelance travel writer, has been traveling all her life…44 countries and loving it! Originally from the sunny skies of Miami, Lisa, a former big firm lawyer, lives near Philadelphia. Travel is her passion. As soon as one vacation ends, Lisa busily plans her next adventure for her non-stop family of adventurers. Lisa’s motto is “don’t just visit the destination…live it!” You can follow Lisa on Instagram.
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