The Hamilton Below Zero is a timepiece that is very dear to me. I have worn the first-generation model for over a decade, and it has served me incredibly well. You can read about my personal history with this model here.
The first-generation model was available in various finishes, movements, and sizes. These included a mechanical chronograph alongside the three-handers with the date complication. Mine was in a hefty 183g black PVD-coated stainless steel case, the finish of which still looks pristine, even after thousands of hours of wear.
As the years passed, the Below Zero became a darling of Hollywood costume departments. Gracing the wrists of Dwayne Johnson, Adrian Brody, John David-Washington, and Robert Pattinson in Christopher Nolan’s Tenet, the Hamilton Below Zero always looked the part on the wrists of action heroes.
The most interesting movie placement by far was in the adaptation of Andy Weir’s excellent novel by director Ridley Scott, The Martian. After seeing many proposals that Hamilton’s special props department had prepared, Mr. Scott chose the then-aging Below Zero to be worn on Matt Damon’s wrist as his character did his best to stay alive on the red planet. Aesthetically, the art deco-inspired behemoth Below Zero proved to be a versatile and beloved timepiece choice for tough guys and heroes on the big screen.
When Hamilton offered me the chance to review both current versions of the Below Zero, I could not say no. I was genuinely curious about the advancements the new titanium cases and H10 movement would bring. Hamilton managed to take a wonderfully original design, address every one of the original’s shortcomings, and make the perfect oversized dive watch, which now can be considered a timing instrument when at depth.
On the Wrist
The one glaring fault of the original Below Zero was its sheer heft. To date, it is the only watch that I have had to take off due to the fatigue induced by its size and weight. Hamilton wisely upgraded the case and buckle to titanium, which has been transformative. Because of its weight, I never once recommended the prior generation of Below Zeros to anyone during my ownership. These new models are watches that can be worn every day without issue. Even so, the original case and strap design ensured a wonderfully balanced watch on the wrist and never felt unstable. This is also true of the new models, which are comfortable and secure.
When writing in early spring 2025, the newest models in Hamilton’s catalog are the all-black PVD model and the non-PVD watch with yellow accents. The new all-black Below Zero wears surprisingly more petite than it should. Subtle design changes from the first generation include a more substantial application of anti-reflective coating on both sides of the substantial sapphire crystal and darker elements on the dial and hand. The numerals are a much darker grey, and the seconds hand is nearly invisible compared to my first-generation timepiece. In both new models, Hamilton removed the date function, which aids symmetry and a more cohesive design. To my surprise, I am considering buying one of these watches because of how well they wear.
Where the new stealthy black model can surprisingly go unnoticed, especially when worn on top of a black wetsuit, the new yellow model goes about its business in an entirely different manner. The yellow watch, though, really makes a statement. I wore these loaned watches with my dive gear on while on site before carefully putting them back into their protective case, and they looked right at home with all my professional dive gear.
Would I wear either of these watches with a formal suit? Absolutely, yes, unless the destination is a funeral. There is just something magical about the distinctive design of these watches that feels like a small celebration whenever I put them on. Now that Hamilton has made them infinitely more wearable, the thought of wearing one of these two every day makes me smile.
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Hamilton Below Zero Specs |
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Dial and Hands
It’s hard to believe that it has been over fifteen years since the initial release of Below Zero by Hamilton. Given that the pandemic has severely warped our sense of time for five of those years, the design of the Below Zero makes that passage of time even more ethereal. We are accustomed to newly introduced designs that prove successful to simply be copied by others while also being expanded upon and refined by the original designers. Not only do the originators of the design attempt to expand on their good work to make up for their development and research costs, but others do their best to copy their work. However, this was not the case with the Below Zero’s design. Its extreme art deco motifs and flourishes proved too much to be incorporated into other brand portfolios that were not already heavily based on mid-century American design.
These design elements, such as the ornamental screw heads on the corners of the case, were deemed brutalist by all those who were not owners. In practice, the monolithic yet cohesive expanses covered by the broad cases and dials prove elegant and unified in their mission. When holding either of the new models, it becomes apparent that Hamilton did their best to refine an already streamlined and avant-garde design.
Starting with the new black PVD model, all elements can devote themselves to its intentional stance of a severe and stealthy appearance. The numerals are darkened from the original’s lighter grey, and the seconds hand all but disappears in most lighting conditions. The deletion of the date window also drives home the resolute goal of the timepiece ascending toward spectral minimalism. This is where the unfeigned charm of this specific model rests. The all-black model feels and looks substantially smaller than the other Below Zeros. To call any of these pieces slender would seem like a joke to most, but relativity not only amongst the models discussed here matters but across all timepieces 46mm and above.
On the other hand, the new yellow model makes its presence known every occasion and has to be the most wonderful interpretation of the Below Zero. First, the textured dial calls to mind wet concrete, contrasting the perfectly stripped brushing on the hands. I never thought I would say these words, but the Below Zero in this iteration is marvelously jewel-like. Hamilton’s designers elaborated on this by splitting the zero at twelve vertically. I’ve never seen this typeface treatment before, and in this execution, it adds a level of acute forcefulness that plays well into its more extroverted character.
Case
The new generation of Below Zeros enjoys a slimmer case than the first generation, with a full millimeter trimmer height of 15.7mm. This speaks to the overall refinement and capabilities that come with more than a decade’s progress—hold on to that thought for the next segment. Besides the weight and shaving of a couple of hairs here and there, there are two small but notable design changes in the new models.
First, the crown now features the more stylized “H” Hamilton logo. Second, the helium escape valve has a “He” stamped onto the inner segment. While both can be subjectively judged as better or worse, I quickly became quite fond of the new detailing on the helium escape valve. It adds some visual interest that is more welcomed on the all-black model.
The use of titanium makes these viable everyday watches. My ultimate test for whether a watch is comfortable is whether I can comfortably sleep on it for an entire night. These two did not pass that test, but they came close. My steel-housed Below Zero would never be considered worn over a period longer than eight hours without a break for my wrist.
The only drawback to switching to titanium cases is that one’s fingerprints and bodily oils will show up more on the new models. To be very frank with you, this issue was only noticed when I had to prepare the watches to be photographed for this article. It should also be noted that the all-black model weighed in at 127g, 6g lighter than the yellow model. Six grams may not sound like much, but your hands can tell the difference when holding the two simultaneously.
The Strap
One of the most surprising aspects of my Below Zero is how well the strap has aged over the years. I wore this watch every day for nearly three years, including going to the gym when I had incorporated high-intensity interval training into my daily routine. Besides the typical minor mark designating my wrist size, the strap is still perfect. It should also be noted that my watch also came with a steel PVD-coated bracelet, while the new models are only offered with their rubber straps.
Two years ago, Hamilton made giant strides in their rubber straps and bracelets. I had written about them in my review on this site several times. These new straps look as resilient as mine but are far more pliant and comfortable when new. Hamilton has not received the recognition it deserves from other publications for the leaps it has made with its straps and bracelets recently. I will take every opportunity to applaud their good work in this space.
Besides the hardware being titanium instead of steel, adding one more set of dual strap holes is the only discernible change. Where the original watch could only be worn by those with wrist sizes starting at 6.75″, those with wrists measuring down to 6.55″ can enjoy the new models.
Final Thoughts
The new Hamilton Below Zeros are perfect case studies of refining and improving a staple in one’s catalog, even if it is not a commercial success. Powered by Hamilton’s proven H10 movement, these timepieces have been elevated from statement pieces to daily tools that bring their owners constant joy. The first-generation model used the stout ETA 2826-2 movement, which, until today, has required only one complete service. The H10 is more suitable for the Below Zero, for its extended 80-hour power reserve will accommodate those who may not want to wear such a large watch at all times. Also, the H10’s anti-magnetic Nivacrhon balance spring is an underappreciated feature of these calibres. Given that every tablet, save for ones made of stone, now has high-powered magnets installed for their accessories, this degree of anti-magnetism should be at the top of mind when purchasing a mechanical watch in 2025. Every update for the recent iterations of this model is perfectly executed and makes for a stronger product in every regard.
Timepieces are equal parts mechanical wonders of engineering and art. No other publications have made the connection that the Below Zero line is an original work of art, but that is indeed what they are. They encompass a level of industrial design that stretches past the accepted norms for the devices that we wear on our wrists, and their tenure in Hamilton’s catalogue and continued usage by Hollywood are all testaments to this.
I am equally drawn to both new models while remaining loyal to my Below Zero. Consequently, it is incredibly easy to recommend any new models to others with wrists large enough to support such considerable watches. If you appreciate these timepieces’ art deco and bold design, I assure you that you will love owning them for many decades, just as I have.
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