In this bookshop guide, Christiane Müller takes us on a tour of the best literary hubs in Hamburg. If you know a city with great spots for book lovers, you can find information about how to contribute to our global bookshop guide series at the end of this article.
Page and port –discovering Hamburg’s book scene
Though nestled in northern Germany, miles from the open sea, Hamburg is renowned for its port: the largest in Germany and among Europe’s busiest. The harbour, along with the trade and commerce it fostered, shaped the city’s identity, and continues to define its DNA today. Unlike vibrant boho Berlin, just two hours away by train, Hamburg rarely springs to mind as a literary powerhouse – at least not at first glance.
Look closer, however, and you’ll discover a thriving cultural scene with reading culture deeply embedded in the city’s fabric. Hamburg boasts multiple (large and small) literature festivals, including Harbour Front, Hamburg liest with changing annual themes, Lange Nacht der Literatur with events spread throughout the city until late into the night and early morning, the Nature Writing Festival in 2025 or Nordische Literaturtage for Scandinavian authors and literature. It’s also home to a prestigious Literaturhaus (a stage in an elegant villa hosting regular readings and author events , various literary prizes, an innovative library system, publishing houses that have stubbornly refused to relocate to Berlin, and passionate independent bookshops scattered throughout every district. Each of these offers carefully curated literary selections and events that venture far beyond the mainstream.
This guide spotlights a handful of these special places, all centrally located and easily accessible during even a brief city visit. Each maintains a thoughtful selection of English-language books as well.
Felix Jud – a Hamburg institution
Let’s begin with a true Hamburg institution: Felix Jud established this bookstore in 1923 (originally at a different location, now located at Neuer Wall 13, 20354 Hamburg ), and it has carried his name ever since, remaining devoted to exceptionally curated selections throughout its history. You’ll marvel at how the booksellers manage to stock both contemporary literature and classics across their compact three floors – which also accommodates a section for antiques and art for sale.
The selection radiates a profound love for the written word and particularly beautiful editions. Even voracious readers will stumble upon books that have never crossed their radar. This browsing experience unfolds amid classic interiors of rich wood and densely packed shelves. The historical ambiance provides a welcome contrast to the ostentation and glitter of the luxury shopping street where the bookshop has courageously held its ground for years, proudly honouring the legacy of its founder – a declared opponent of the Nazi regime who deliberately refused to change his surname. During the Nazi era, he used his shop windows for daring interventions and secretly supplied customers with banned books.
Blattgold – a golden discovery
A personal recent discovery is Buchhandlung Blattgold (Wexstraße 28, 20355 Hamburg), established only in 2018 yet already honoured with the prestigious national Bookshop Prize in 2022, primarily for exceptional service. Don’t be deceived by first impressions: while the selection appears sparse, every single title (novels and socially relevant non-fiction) represents an excellent choice. Blattgold proves invaluable when you lack the energy to excavate overstuffed shelves crammed with books and are in need of some guidance.
The airy, bright, welcoming spaces give browsers ample room and tranquillity to engage with the selection. The name isn’t merely wordplay –as the bookshop shares its space with a goldsmith, contributing to a pleasant, unhurried atelier atmosphere. (Plus, Public Coffee Roasters right next door serves some of the city’s finest coffee!)
stories! – modern excellence
stories! (Straßenbahnring 17, 20251 Hamburg) is a contemporary bookshop that proves why we don’t need large chains or delivery services: it offers excellent, lightning-fast service, thoughtful curation across all genres, numerous events, and coffee with homemade cookies. While centrally located, it’s somewhat hidden, but a large sign guides visitors from the main street to the laneway between the building rows where it’s located.
The great strength of stories! lies in its passionate staff (their recommendations never miss!) and its superb selection extending into every niche, as well as popular picks; stories! effortlessly balances displaying bestsellers in their windows while pointing your nose toward “the special.” Particularly ingenious is their “room within a room,” where currently discussed titles are presented alongside reviews. The lovingly stocked children’s book section is especially good. As much as possible is displayed cover-forward, creating the sensation of wandering through an exhibition.
Dr. Götze Land & Karte – a geographical goldmine
An enormously cherished curiosity is Dr. Götze (located at Alstertor 14, 20095 Hamburg): a bookshop specialising in maps, atlases, globes, and every conceivable type of travel literature. Founded immediately after the war in 1946, it’s now Germany’s largest “geographical specialty shop,” possibly even in all of Europe. They carry the complete selection of travel guides and hiking maps (in appropriate scales) for even the most remote corners of the world, plus historical maps, star atlases and literary travelogues.
You might think this isn’t your thing, but this boutique shop’s charm is simply overwhelming. Don’t miss consulting their passionate expert team, even for vague or distant travel plans; the staff know their craft and are happy to advise, pursuing their work with the passion of true world explorers.
Kapitel Drei – a reader’s sanctuary
While I understand the reverence for books as material objects deep in my soul, I’m primarily a reader. This might be because I’m a librarian who borrows rather than buys most of my books. For me it’s about the stories, about reading itself, and I fear many books are purchased more as proxies for this experience than for actual reading.
That’s why my final recommendation is my favourite place, one genuinely devoted to reading. Kapitel Drei (Hospitalstraße 69, 22767 Hamburg) is a book café where, no matter when you visit, you’ll see people reading at every table (many on their own) or discussing books. There’s a small selection of new and used books (mainly novels, especially classics and fantasy, plus poetry and non-fiction on feminism and LGBTQ+ topics), but you’re welcome to bring your own reading material.
There’s something magical about reading surrounded by other readers and I highly recommend incorporating this place into your Hamburg visit to remind yourself what books are truly about. Kapitel 3 was founded in 2023 by two young women who took this bold step in the post-COVID years. You can feel their love and dedication to this very special place in every detail, down to every last crumb of their (vegan) cake.
Postscript
Finally, if you’re looking to combine your own reading with exploring Hamburg’s special places, you should check out Flexibles Schmökern – a unique concept that invites you to a reading hour in changing locations.
Note: This bookshop guide gives the views of the author, and not the position of the LSE Review of Books blog, or of the London School of Economics and Political Science.
Main image credit: canadastock on Shutterstock.
Author image credit: Christiane Müller Sabine Vielmo © via The New Institute website.
Do you know a place with great bookshops? As part of a regular feature on LSE Review of Books, we’re asking academics and students to recommend their favourite bookshops in a particular city or town to share with our book-loving community of readers the world over.
Bookshops could be academic, alternative, multilingual, hobby-based, secret or underground institutions, second-hand outlets or connected to a university. We’d like to cover all world regions too and are particularly keen to feature cities outside of Europe and North America.
If something comes to mind, we’re looking for a brief introduction about the city, a selection of three or four bookshops with around 150 words per bookshop, detailing why each one is a must-see. Our editorial team can then find suitable photos and links to accompany the piece, though you’re welcome to supply these too.
Email us if you’d like to contribute: [email protected]
