100 Years of Giovanni Manzone Wines
It’s time to celebrate five generations of winemakers and more than a hundred years of history at Giovanni Manzone, located in the hills of the Langhe in Piemonte. I’ve already been celebrating with a selection of four stellar wines (sent as samples for a virtual tasting led by Mauro Manzone) that included their special edition Barolo, 2009 Riserva Cento Anni. The family story began in Castelletto, Monforte d’Alba in 1925 and it seems (and tastes) like the story will continue for a long time.
Photo Credit: Giovanni Manzone
100 Years of Giovanni Manzone
The hardships, struggles, and challenges of life in Monforte d’Alba at the beginning of the 20th century were not for the faint of heart. Patriarch Stefano Manzone “gave the first impetus to today’s farm,” shared Mauro, a fifth generation member. Born in 1860 and with three children, he bequeathed his land by having each draw a lot. His son Giovanni Manzone, born in 1886, was assigned the difficult-to-cultivate Ciabot del Preve, the house and farm of the parish priest of Castelletto. Giovanni and his wife moved to that property, although it meant that they would have to survive in the difficult years ahead rife with fatigue and poverty. Thus began the winery with ensuing years just as challenging but very exciting.
Photo Credit: Giovanni Manzone
Fast forward to the present – much has changed, as you probably expected. At the beginning of the 21st century, an underground cellar was dug into the rock under the Castelleto vineyards. As luck (and hard work) would have it, a preserved water source was discovered. In 2012, the new tasting room that offers a stunning view of the Barolo area was finally completed.
Please visit the website HERE to discover more details of this fascinating history of Giovanni Manzone – this brief description can’t do the family’s journey to today’s success justice. Their persistence and dedication to each generation and towards the land on which they live and work is nothing short of inspiring.
The Blend of Tradition with Modern Barolo
Prior to the mid-1980s, Barolo was considered undrinkable unless it was aged over 15-20 years, during which the incredibly gripping tannins had time to soften. By the 1980s, though, a group of highly regarded vintners changed their winemaking process in order to ferment Nebbiolo at a warmer temperature resulting in softer tannins. Karen MacNeil in The Wine Bible, 3rd edition, writes, “Juice could be pumped over the grape skins in a way that imparted maximum color to the wine but shortened the length of the fermentation and thus mitigated harsh tannin. Finally, winemakers began to understand how to divide the aging of Nebbiolo between barrels (either botti or small French oak) and bottles so that the fruit quality and potential suppleness of the wine would not be sacrificed.
In complete opposition, Barolo’s traditional winemakers remained unimpressed, arguing that the new wines might be a little softer and fleshier, but they weren’t Barolo. The divisions were largely over by the 2000s, as the whole region began to weave together the best of the old ways with the best of the new, in pursuit of balance and elegance.”
The trend now is to produce Barolo with “more finesse and elegance using longer maturation and larger barrels,” shared Mauro Manzone.
Photo Credit: Giovanni Manzone
Selected Wines of Giovanni Manzone
Our first taste was of delicate and juicy Giovanni Manzone, Langhe Nebbiolo II Crutin DOC 2023 ($27). “The Crutin” is a historical house in the heart of Gramolere that has belonged to the Manzone family since 2001. In the Piemontese language, however, “crutin” means a small cellar carved by hand into rock. In the past, food and wines were stored there. This lovely wine was aged in neutral oak casks for 6 months, then in steel tanks, without fining or filtering. Although this wine can age 5-10 years, it’s just delicious now. I found beautiful red fruit and floral notes on the nose and spice filled red and blue fruit on the palate. Moderate acidity and tannic structure framed the profile – open a bottle and enjoy with creamy lasagne and Italian cheeses.
A single vineyard Barolo located close to the winery, Giovanni Manzone, Barolo Castelleto 2020 DOCG ($47) was elegant and ripe from the first sip to the last. “We don’t like overextraction in a wine. We want to show terroir and the Nebbiolo in its purity and evolution,” remarked Mauro. This wine proves just that. I found juicy red fruit with notes of raspberries, pomegranates, wild berries, bramble and tobacco on both nose and palate. Tannic structure was on point and the moderate acidity gave the wine a lift. Aged in neutral oak casks for 30 months, then in concrete tank, the wine is unfined and unfiltered. This is a lipsmacking choice with roast chicken and seasoned cheese. If you can, age this until 2040.
One whiff of Giovanni Manzone, Barolo Bricat 2019 DOCG ($53) enticed me to have more swirls and sips. The original vines are more than 50 years old and the concentration of fruit was ideal. Noted were aromas of chocolate, blackberries, dark plums, blueberries and raw nuts. Elegant flavors of luscious red and purple fruit, moderate acidity and firm but delicate tannins helped create a warm mouthfeel. The Bricat was aged in neutral oak for 30 months, then in a concrete tank without fining or filtering. Balanced with a lingering finish, I had the wine with short ribs and polenta.
A grand finale was Giovanni Manzone, Barolo 2009 Riserva Cento Anni ($300), bottled specifically for the 100th anniversary. The intense nose was mesmerizing with notes of spice, roses, balsamic, and truffle. Wrapped with firm tannins and vibrant acidity, the palate was rife with minerality, cherries, dark plums, and chocolate. The Riserva was aged in neutral oak for 84 months and for 60 months in concrete tanks… 12 years before the wine was bottled! A perfect wine for celebrating – cheers to that!
Congratulations to the Giovanni Manzone family for a fascinating story of challenges and commitment, all of which has led to this exciting moment in time for the family and wine lovers alike. Happy Anniversary!
Cheers! ~ Cindy
