At this year’s Benvenuto Brunello event, I had the opportunity to taste the highly anticipated 2021 vintage ahead of its official release—an early glimpse into what is already being discussed as a remarkable year for Montalcino. Among the many compelling wines, reconnecting with the portfolio of Azienda Agricola Patrizia Cencioni felt particularly meaningful, especially the standout Ofelio Brunello di Montalcino, which once again commanded attention for its depth and composure. Having visited the estate some time ago, I realized I never fully shared that experience. This recent tasting served as the perfect catalyst to revisit the winery’s story and finally bring that long-overdue reflection to light.
Visiting Patrizia Cencioni
When I visited the Azienda Agricola Patrizia Cencioni estate in southeastern Montalcino, I learned about a family story that is deeply intertwined with the history of Brunello itself. Though she officially founded her estate in 1989, her roots in the region stretch back generations. Her grandfather, Giuseppe Cencioni, was among the early figures who helped establish the Consorzio de Brunello di Montalcino to recognize and protect the denomination. It was evident that wine was more than simply the family livelihood, it was part of daily life and local identity.
Today, the estate remains family-run, with an emphasis on authenticity, careful farming, and wines that reflect both heritage and place. While visiting, I was able to meet with Patrizia and her daughter, Arianna. I was also able to tour the estate and have a tasting of their wines.
In a walk through the vineyards, it was clear to see that the estate is in a favorable pocket of Montalcino where they experience a balance of generous sun for concentration in the wines and cool breezes from Val d’Orcia for freshness. The soils are composed of clay, marl, and sandy deposits that provide structure and nuance to Sangiovese, the proprietary grape in Brunello.
This interplay of climate and earth is essential for wines built to age. I was able to experience this first-hand with the tasting during my visit and when I revisited Patrizia Cenzioni wines and tasted with her daughter, Annalisa, at Benvenuto Brunello in New York.
The Wining Hour Revisiting Patrizia Cencioni Wines
Patrizia Cencioni Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2024
The Rosso offers a youthful, vibrant expression of Sangiovese. First, there are aromas of fresh cherry and red currant, followed by subtle hints of dried herbs and soft spice. The palate is lively and smooth, with bright acidity and gentle tannins that make it both approachable and immediate, yet still structured.
Patrizia Cencioni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2021
The 2021 Brunello shows greater depth and structure. Dark cherry and plum notes are layered with tobacco, cedar, and a touch of balsamic. The wine is layered and focused. This Brunello is classic in profile, promising graceful evolution in the cellar.
Patrizia Cencioni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG “Ofelio” 2021
The 2019 Ofelio blew me away on my initial visit, and the 2021 vintage does not disappoint. Named in tribute to a beloved family member and mentor and selected from prime parcels, Ofelio offers additional intensity and dimension. The nose unfolds gradually, with black cherry, violet, warm baking spice, and a touch of cocoa. The palate is fuller and more enveloping, yet still graceful. There is a richness at its core, complemented by polished tannins and a persistent, gently spiced finish. Ofelio is a good contemplative wine.
Patrizia Cencioni “123” Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2020
“123” is the flagship Riserva that draws its name from a historic plot on the estate and represents the estate’s most commanding expression. Deeply colored and complex, it opens with aromas of ripe red berries layered with leather, forest floor, and subtle notes of clove and licorice. The texture is broad and velvety, with impressive structure supporting the fruit. As it lingers, savory and earthy tones emerge, adding depth and sophistication. This is a Brunello Riserva definitely built for time, as it is complex, confident and deeply rooted in its terroir.
Across the range, Patrizia Cencioni’s Brunellos share a common thread: clarity of fruit, disciplined structure, and a strong sense of origin. They capture Montalcino not in excess or spectacle, but in carefully measured detail. Their wines reflect generations of experience and a steadfast commitment to Montalcino’s identity—where tradition, patience, and place shape wines of enduring character.
