
Basically it will depend on what you consider carbonara. Do you want a classic version, or one that is classic with an eye on innovation based on the achievements of modern food science or are you just looking for a consistent sauce.
This is my version for making a smooth, silky custard like sauce that is never grainy. This also takes that last minute fear out of this dish that seems to put people in panic mode.
The sauce will be made separately off the direct heat of the stove and using a wide mouth stainless mixing bowl, wide enough to sit comfortably over the pot your cooking the pasta in, and used as a bain marie.
The first thing is fry the guanciale. When there’s enough fat from the rendering I will lift the pan that allows more of a deep frying situation to occur, this gives me the an overall crust I want on the outside while still having a soft center. Remove and separate the guanciale from the fat.
In the stainless bowl add the amount of egg yolks you’ll need and generally 1 large yolk per person. The cheese should be pecorino romano, personally I use a combination of pecorino romano and grana padano. If I’m using a micro plane I use about 3/4 cup per person or 1/2 cup if just finely grated. Add the black pepper at this time as well and keep in mind this is named after the coal miners that made this dish famous so the pepper is the coal, so add as much as you deem appropriate and to this add a splash per person of pasta water and vigorously mix with a medium sized balloon whisk for a minute or two. Generally for 2 people a total of about 1/2 cup of pasta water is pretty normal.
Here’s where the magic happens. Place over the pot of pasta water and using a thermometer bring this mixture up to 65 degrees centigrade while continuing to whisk and removing when needed and continue to whisk. This gets it close to finished before the pasta even enters and creates a creamy, custard-like texture and continue to whisk adding additional water to bring it to the consistency you like, remove from the heat and wait for the pasta to almost finish and add the pasta allowing for an additional 2 minutes of mixing with a wooden spoon to finish cooking the pasta in the mixture, this allows the extra starch to help thicken and for the pasta to properly absorb the sauce which is one of the big mistakes most cooks miss totally.
Add the rest of the guanciale and mix thoroughly and this is where adjustments can be made by adding more water, more cheese that kind of thing and if you have to bring it back up to temp by putting it back on the pot to heat up, if it’s cooled down.
Serving it, most of the guanciale will be left behind so this is where you using a spoon add this to each plate and add some extra grated cheese