Schwarz Etienne 1902 RÉSERVE DE MARCHE Watch Review
The Schwarz Etienne 1902 RÉSERVE DE MARCHE comes hot on the heels of the 1902 PETITE SECONDE launched in April 2025. This latest model is endowed with a power-reserve indicator at 2 o’clock and incorporates the hand-wound MSE 311.00 calibre. However, while the model is new it still subscribes to the ultra-sophisticated execution and elegant styling of its older, small second sibling. Angus Davies recently visited Villa Sonnenheim, Schwarz Etienne’s Manufacture and spent a few enjoyable hours getting hands-on with the brand’s latest model.
A hand-wound watch
The automatic watch has proved to be the ‘go-to’ choice for many watch collectors. Once the timepiece is affixed to the wrist, the oscillating weight within the watch freely rotates with the merest suggestion of arm movement. The action of the dense metal moving energisies the barrel(s), powering the indications without the need for a battery. So far, so convenient. However, despite the ease afforded by a self-winding movement, many purists still favour a hand-wound watch. Why? Allow me to explain.
Just for a moment, consider a petrolhead climbing behind the wheel of a classic car. They turn the key and awaken a fire-breathing, air-cooled flat six. As they leave the city limits on a warm summer’s day, they begin to rifle through the gears. Second to third, then into fourth, the knob of the gear lever cupped in the hand, pushed hard against their flesh. Timing is everything. Turning the wheel and threading the car through bends and blipping the throttle when downshifting is catnip for many motoring enthusiasts. The allure for these dedicated lovers of fossil-fuelled cars is the interaction they share with the car’s mechanical components, especially the sensations conferred by a manual gearbox.
Although the notion of brushing teeth, shaving and having a shower sounds a tad mundane, the daily ritual of winding a watch is a pleasure to be savoured. While surrounded by the chaos of modern-day life, the action of gripping the crown between forefinger and thumb provides a momentary escape. It’s simply you and your watch. When turning the crown, the tactile interaction provides feedback, communicating the status of the mainspring. As the tension of the mainspring increases, the resistance is heightened, indicating the daily ritual is nearly over.
For die-hard purists, winding a manual movement awakens the senses. Not only do the fingertips energise the mainspring and feel the increasing tension, the ears can detect the distinct noise of the click, performing its favourite song while preventing the accumulated energy immediately escaping. With familiarity, the owner is sometimes able to discern changes in winding behaviour, a tell tale sign that a lubrication service is possibly due or, heaven forbid, indicate the presence of a more serious problem.
Schwarz Etienne, the independent Manufacture located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, has just unveiled a new hand-wound timepiece, the 1902 RÉSERVE DE MARCHE. Brand devotees will no doubt recognise this is the second member of the recently unveiled 1902 collection. The inaugural model, the 1902 PETITE SECONDE, was released in April 2025.
Above images – the Schwarz Etienne 1902 PETITE SECONDE
The Swiss marque has a rich heritage dating back to 1902 and has amassed much know-how since it was founded. Indeed, as well as creating its own high-end pieces, such is the brand’s technical competence, it also makes private label watches for several other companies. The 1902 PETITE SECONDE features an in-house movement, powered by a micro-rotor, a rarity in the watch sphere as it requires specialist know-how to bring to fruition. However, while this model is highly covetable, the independent brand also recognises that some horophiles prefer a hand-wound timepiece. The new 1902 RÉSERVE DE MARCHE not only delivers said tactile experience, much loved by horophiles, but also grants a number of additional attributes deserving of your attention. Allow me to elaborate.
Schwarz Etienne 1902 RÉSERVE DE MARCHE – dial
The 1902 RÉSERVE DE MARCHE is available in a choice of two dial hues: silver or ‘gold 4N colour’. The dial features lancine-style hour and minute hands, while a small seconds display resides at 6 o’clock. A cursory glance could lead some observers to mistake the RÉSERVE DE MARCHE for its older brother, the PETITE SECONDE; however, closer examination reveals an arcing track positioned between 12:30 and 2:30, its curving form appearing to almost smile. A lone, svelte hand collaborates with the track, indicating the amount of available energy stored within the movement’s twin barrels.
In many other respects, Schwarz Etienne has stayed true to the design of the 1902 PETITE SECONDE which is a good thing because this model is blessed with a pulchritudinous visage worthy of the silver-screen. Explore the face of the RÉSERVE DE MARCHE and you will note the central area is endowed with a delicately grained epidermis. The neighbouring hour track sits on a higher plane, executed in a smooth, silky finish. Unlike the PETITE SECONDE, this latest model features a combination of polished indexes and fine Arabic numerals. Closer examination reveals the Swiss Manufacture has cleverly used numerals to denote the 10 and 11 o’clock as a means of counterbalancing the visual weight of the power-reserve indicator. It may sound like a small detail, but true luxury is often the cumulative sum of many so-called small details.
Examine the power reserve indicator and the small seconds display and you will discover they are delineated from the central dial area with slivers of brightwork. Moreover, each indication features snailed detail that toys with light and adds texture. The maker’s name is proclaimed in gleaming block capitals and presented in relief.
The dial is fringed with a chemin de fer, aiding readability. The small seconds display echoes the appearance of the main dial, being framed with a crisp track, enhancing legibility and adding a becoming soupçon of contrast.
Schwarz Etienne 1902 RÉSERVE DE MARCHE – case
In the past, Schwarz Etienne produced watches measuring 44 mm and 45 mm in diameter. However, in recent years the creative minds based at Villa Sonnenheim, Schwarz Etienne’s picture-perfect home, have become increasingly aware of a growing fondness for smaller case sizes. In common with the PETITE SECONDE, the RÉSERVE DE MARCHE is housed in a 39 mm case, a size that will suit the majority of would-be wearers. Likewise, in common with the PETITE SECONDE, the housing of the new model is formed of Grade 5 titanium.
In my recent review of the 1902 PETITE SECONDE, I talk in detail about the composition of Grade 5 titanium and the technical challenges encountered in making a case from this material. But to sum up the benefits of Grade 5 titanium, it is light, strong, corrosion-resistant, virtually non-magnetic and hypoallergenic. This latter characteristic may prove particularly interesting to those individuals who are allergic to nickel, an element that is present in stainless steel 316L (10-14%) and 904L (circa 25%).
The low mass of Grade 5 titanium, the model’s modest case dimensions and the curved ergonomically-shaped lugs deliver matchless levels of wearer comfort. In addition, unlike cheaper Grade 2 titanium, Grade 5 can be polished to a resplendent gleam, something Schwarz Etienne tastefully exploits on this occasion. The bezel, caseband and caseback are highly polished, while the upper surfaces of lugs are satin polished, tempering the ebullience of the gleaming sections of the case. The resultant aesthetic is refined and sophisticated.
Both dial variants are paired with a colour-coordinating alligator leather strap which is lined with black rubber and fitted with a titanium pin buckle.
Schwarz Etienne MSE 311.00 calibre
Ardent followers of Schwarz Etienne will already be aware of the Swiss Maison’s ingenious approach to movement construction. Contrast the movement within the PETITE SECONDE, the automatic Calibre ASE 300.00, with that found in the RÉSERVE DE MARCHE, the hand-wound Calibre MSE 311.00, and you will note they share much in common. Indeed, both movements feature the same mainplate and bridges. There are subtle variations beneath the bridges, but the principal difference is the presence/absence of the micro-rotor.
Image – ASE 300.00 calibre (with micro-rotor)
Appraising the MSE 311.00 calibre via the exhibition caseback (verso) reveals two ratchet wheels. The hand-wound calibre eschews the micro-rotor found within the ASE 300.00 in favour of an additional barrel. This elevates the power-reserve from 86 hours to 120 hours.
With the automatic and manual movements sharing several parts in common, Schwarz Etienne will undoubtedly enjoy some efficiencies. This may prompt some readers to question how this is beneficial to the wearer. The answer is simple, the Manufacture can deliver a highly specified movement for a comparatively keen price.
Image – MSE 311.00 calibre (with two barrels)
Beyond the impressive autonomy delivered by the MSE 311.00 calibre, it is beautifully finished. The bridges are adorned with straight Côtes de Genève motif, providing a subtle variation from those found within the ASE 300.00 calibre, which are curved. The angles are polished by hand, the jewels sit within polished sinks, the mainplate is finely sandblasted and the ratchet wheels are enriched with ‘diamond drop and satin brushing’. Personally, I adore the six bridges, four of which are slender and finger-like in form. Often with large, mainstream brands, such details are countermanded by the bean-counters and deemed too expensive. This band of calculator-wielding middle managers would inevitably insist on using two or three large plates in the pursuit of cost savings. Thankfully, despite visiting the Manufacture several times, I’ve yet to meet a bean-counter and the firm’s fondness for multiple bridges remains untamed.
There is no escaping the fact that the MSE 311.00 calibre is beautiful to behold and it will undoubtedly continue to run when many movements have fallen quiet.
Schwarz Etienne 1902 RÉSERVE DE MARCHE – closing remarks
The Schwarz Etienne 1902 RÉSERVE DE MARCHE is an exemplar of understated luxury. The dial details are numerous but sensitively applied. Certainly, the blend of finely grained and snailed surfaces, the arrangement of dial elements at different heights and the playful mix of batons and Arabic numerals will elicit nods of approval from many within the watch collecting community.
By opting to house the watch in a 39 mm case formed of Grade 5 titanium, Schwarz Etienne has created a watch that will suit most wrists, even those sensitive to nickel. My wrist measures a fulsome 19 cm in circumference; however, as the image below shows, the RÉSERVE DE MARCHE looks very much at ease.
Image – watch with gold 4N coloured dial affixed to the wrist of Angus Davies (19 cm circumference)
The intelligent design of the MSE 311.00 calibre means the movement can share some components with its automatic cousin, thereby delivering a level of refinement seldom found at this price point.
Image – watch with silver coloured dial affixed to the wrist of Angus Davies (19 cm circumference)
Lastly, this is a watch that invites its wearer to stop, smell the flowers, energise the mainsprings and reflect on the meaning of life. Indeed, the Schwarz Etienne 1902 RÉSERVE DE MARCHE provides a welcome antidote to modern-day stress and, who knows, it may even be the answer for those bean counters straining under the pressure of deadlines and spreadsheets.
Further reading
https://www.schwarz-etienne.ch
Technical specifications
- Model: Schwarz Etienne 1902 RÉSERVE DE MARCHE
- Reference: WCL39RDMMSE16TICUARD (silver coloured dial with black alligator strap with black rubber lining)
- Reference: WCL39RDMMSE34TICUARD (gold 4N coloured dial with brown alligator strap with black rubber lining)
- Case: Grade 5 titanium, diameter 39 mm, height 10.90 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 metres), sapphire crystal to front; exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, power-reserve indicator
- Movement: Calibre MSE 311.00, hand-wound movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz), 35 jewels, power reserve 120 hours, 182 components.
- Strap: colour-coordinating strap paired with a Grade 5 titanium pin buckle with Schwarz Etienne logo
- Price: CHF 19,500 excluding taxes (RRP as of 2.7.2025)
