Mixing family with wine is the perfect recipe for a jaunt in the County
By Rick VanSickle
Mixing family with wine in Prince Edward County recently, we were richly rewarded on both counts.
The County rarely disappoints with its rustic charm, terroir-driven wines, diversity of tasting experiences and that chill vibe that is 100% infectious.
In this meandering post, we make stops at The Last House, Karlo Estates, Stoss Lee, Decanter, Old Third, Closson Chase, Hubbs Creek and many of the cool places to eat from our home base in Picton at the By the Manor B&B owned and run by the husband-and-wife duo Shawn McCormick and Debbie White (highly recommended).
Yes, there was plenty of time for all our pursuits, golf with my son Ty (above) and hitting balls at the range with the whole gang, including Maureen and Ty’s twin sister Bri. This was a long overdue family reunion with a bit of wine thrown into the mix and we couldn’t think of a more perfect location to celebrate getting together for a few precious days.
It was also a chance to open the only bottle of wine NOT from the County that we would share on this weekend. It’s a bottle with a bit of history.
Our twins were born in Ottawa 28 years ago. On the day of their birth, I went to the Dalhousie Vintages store in Ottawa to buy the two most expensive bottles of Bordeaux I could find so the kids could open them when they turned 19. The wine was a 1985 Château Calon Ségur, a third growth Bordeaux from the Médoc, not their birth year, obviously, but it was what they had on offer. The heart on the bottle has been the symbol of Calon since the 18th century, and stands as a nod to the love we all have for our children.
Our daughter consumed hers relatively soon after she turned 19, but Ty, not a big wine guy, chose to wait on his, so it sat in our cellar until the time was right, which was this weekend in Prince Edward County with all of us present. It was a magical bottle with sweet memories of the day they were born — the happiest day of our lives. We drank the bottle right down to the sediment and told stories of their early years. We laughed and reminisced over the nearly 30 years of our busy lives. It was a moment to cherish, brought together with a dusty, old bottle of wine.
It was a weekend just like that over four days. Trips to the beach at Sandbanks, fighting over which restaurant we would go to where they served (sort of) vegetarian food, (full blown) vegetarian and good old anything for mom and dad. We divided and conquered winery visits with Maureen and Bri taking on The Old Third (thanks for the great photos, Bri!), Closson Chase, Broken Stone and a couple of others while the boys played golf at the Picton Golf and Country Club. Ty can absolutely crush his driver, but pop had a little more finesse around the greens (it just took me longer to get there).
Note: Bri is a marketing guru and has a side gig specializing on social media, you can find her here on Instagram if you need help with online marketing.
We all visited the Decanter retail shop and wine bar in Wellington, which was recently awarded a Brock CCOVI Promoter award, and picked up some cheese and wine from their amazing store that features a unique selection of small batch, rare Ontario and international wines, craft beer, cider and spirits, plus locally sourced gifts, pantry fare, picnic supplies and gourmet snacks. The store is co-owned by Angie Jewell and MJ Macdonald, (in above photo with Fred Di Profio) who we met for the first time and absolutely adored their space at Decanter.
We loved it there so much we returned later that day because we heard Niagara winemaker (Bella Terra) Fred Di Profio was introducing his own brand of wines, Fred Wines, to County folk. We caught up with Fred, sipped his delicious wines and continued our adventures.
I’m going to stick with the wine portion of our PEC journey going forward in somewhat of a chronological order.
The Last House
It’s kind of funny (maybe just to me) but we usually start off any trip to PEC at Andre Gagne’s Last House Vineyard, so the Last House is the First House we usually visit, and it wasn’t any different this time around.
Andre and his wife Debra Mathews, along with son Daniel, were preparing for their other son’s (Christian) wedding at the estate the next day. So, no time for chatting or tasting, but we collected some new releases, which we tasted at our leisure at the B&B.
On the off chance you haven’t yet tasted the wines from Last House (or the estate cider), you are missing out on some of the most exciting Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays being made in the County, and frankly, all of Ontario. Gagne works with County veteran and author Geoff Heinricks (if photo above) to produce tiny allotments (most under 100 cases) of estate wines made in a lo-fi, minimalist style that are always a pure reflection of where the grapes are grown. No tricks, just hands-on craftsmanship and dogged determination. You can purchase the wine here. Here’s what I liked:
The Last House Hillier Blanc Block 130 2023 ($36, 92 points) — This is from 100% estate grown Chardonnay planted by Gagne in 2018. The fruit was hand-harvested, whole cluster pressed, wild fermented and aged in 50% steel and 50% oak barrels and lightly sulphured. Such profound County minerality of wet stones, saline and earthy/savoury notes on the nose with fresh pear, apple skin, bergamot, subtle reduction and spice. It has silky texture on the palate, elevated reduction, saline, lifted pear, fresh-squeezed lemon and mouth-watering acidity keeping it fresh and lively through a long finish. 105 cases were made.
The Last House Hillier Blanc Block 130 Reserve 2023 ($58, 95 points) — The reserve version of the above wine is made the same way with the exception that one barrel stood out from the get-go. “Ironically, I call this barrel my lucky barrel,” says Gagne. “It was the first barrel I acquired (from Geoff Heinricks). It was used to barrel ferment the first vintage of Hillier Blanc Christian Block, the 2019. Pure County but reminiscent of Macon Viré Chards made with a small percentage of botrytis affected grapes.” Just 23 cases made. So different from the estate Hillier Blanc above, much more elegant and poised with perfumed pear, floral notes, river rock and saline, Meyer lemon, quince and perfectly integrated spice notes. The elegance shines through on the palate with a richer, textured profile and riper pear and yellow apple fruits balanced by juicy lemon, stony minerality and spice with such lovely finesse and length on the finish. A beauty that will be fun to watch age for five or more years. Bravo!
The Last House Midnight Négoce Cabernet Franc Rosé 2024 ($28, tank sample so no score attributed) — This is the second wine made under the stylish Négoce label, following in the footsteps of the 2023 Pinot Gris. The Cabernet Franc was sourced from Kevin Watson in Niagara’s Four Mile Creek sub-appellation. It spent 12 hours on skins and was wild fermented with no added nutrients for the primary ferment, which was done in 90% steel and 10% oak. The oak barrel was the second one acquired by Last House and was used in 2019 to ferment the first Danial Block Pinot Noir. There was no fining or filtering, and it was bottled by hand. 110 cases made. It shows a bright pink colour in the glass and a buffet of red fruits led by fresh-picked strawberries, wild herbs and a touch of lemon citrus. It has lovely texture on the creamy palate where the strawberries, raspberries, plums, mulled herbs and pinch of spice all lead to a mouth-watering finish. There’s a bit of structure here and cellaring this for a couple of years is not out of the question.
Karlo Estates Winery
Our second day in PEC had only one scheduled appointment, a long over-due visit to the spectacular Karlo Estates.
Karlo Estates was founded by Richard Karlo, who sadly passed away in 2014. He planted the first vineyard, designed the estate and repurposed the barn. He learned to make wine from his dad and became the first winemaker at Karlo Estates.
The winery now is in the hands of Richard Karlo’s wife Sherry and now husband and partner in the winery Saxe Brickenden (both above).
It is a gorgeous estate and provides the ultimate in the County experience from in-house wine tastings, wines by the glass to bar munchies, dairy-free cheese and plant-based charcuterie snacks, large outdoor space often with music, and a very cool indoor “speakeasy” wine lounge.
It is Karlo’s mission to not only “provide the ultimate wine country experience” but also enjoy outstanding wines made by veteran Niagara winemaker Derek Barnett and Spencer Mayer. The winery offers a wide range of wines in both single varietal bottlings and classic blends.
Barnett, formerly the winemaker at Lailey and he now has his own brand called Meldville, crafts the Karlo wines in an Old World style using traditional methods and an artisanal approach for natural wine making. Everything is hand-harvested, with extensive wild ferments and minimal intervention. “We work to craft food-friendly, well-balanced wines that show off all the complexity of our coveted Hillier limestone clay loam terroir in the southwestern part of Prince Edward County,” said Karlo.
On our visit, we are greeted by Sherry Karlo, who lives with Brickenden on the estate, for a short tour of the property and winery. We loved the country-chic layout of the various spaces created for memorable tastings in small or larger groups. While the rest of the family continued to tour the grounds and take in the stunning stone bridge (one of North America’s largest of its kind), I tasted through a wide swath of the Karlo wines with Sherry Karlo and joined later by Brickenden. Here is what I liked:
Karlo Bubble 2023 ($35, 90 points) — “When Derek Barnett, our winemaker, was offered some Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon at the beginning of harvest, we jumped at the chance to make a Bordeaux cuvée sparkling,” said Karlo about this charmat style wine. It shows robust bubbles in the glass with a nose of bright and aromatic peach, citrus and lemon biscuit. There is a touch of sweetness on the palate with persistent bubbles, orchard fruits and balancing citrus notes on a lifted, fresh finish.
Karlo Three Witches 2023 ($29, 91 points) — The Three Witches is an old-world white grape blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer and dry Riesling. It’s fresh and lifted on the nose with lemon-lime citrus, passion fruit, kiwi, while flowers, ginger and lychee. It has a smooth texture on the palate and a fruit-forward array of grapefruit, apples, kiwi, tropical fruits and herbs in a dry and refreshing style that’s bright and finessed on the finish.
Karlo Patio Reserve Rosé 2023 ($22, 90 points) — The rosé is a quirky, proprietary blend of Semillon, Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Malbec (the only Malbec grown in the County). The nose is an intriguing mix of tropical fruits, florals, fresh strawberries and citrus. It’s nice and dry on the palate with vibrant red berries, juicy citrus notes, tropical fruits and a rounded texture and vibrant finish.
Karlo Triumvirate 2022 ($35, 92 points) — Triumvirate, an ancient Roman term referring to three emperors ruling together for balanced government, is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon made in a Right Bank Bordeaux style. It has an enticing nose of black currants, blackberries, Morello cherries, sweet vanilla and spice with underlying earthy/savoury notes. It’s smooth and assertive on the palate with medium+ tannins and a smooth texture to go with ripe dark berries, kirsch, earthy accents, tobacco notes, anise and spice with a long, lifted finish. Can cellar through 2032.
Karlo Small Batch Quartus 2020 ($50, 93 points) — From single varieties to the top red wine called Sextus at Karlo, Quartus is the 4th stepping stone in the estate’s Bordeaux blend signature series. It’s a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s highly aromatic with notes of ripe red berries, plums, red currants, campfire/leathery notes, cocoa and toasted vanilla spices. It’s mouth-filling on the palate with grippy tannins, black currants, kirsch, brambly black raspberries, anise, purple plums and rich spice notes on a lifted and long finish. Give it some time to soften those tannins and be richly reward with cellaring up to 2033.
Karlo Quintus 2022 ($80, 94 points) — Quintus is the final stepping stone before the flagship Sextus (which I didn’t taste on this trip) and has only been made in five previous vintages. It’s a blend of all five Bordeaux grapes — Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Late co-founder of Karlo Estates, Richard, “set out to prove that Ontario’s terroir could create similar magic for an affordable price,” explains Sherry Karlo. “So, we sought out the best fruit and value.” It is a blockbuster wine from the near-perfect 2020 vintage in Ontario with a profound nose of cassis, sweet oak spices, black currants, Morello cherries and kirsch, tar, earthy/savoury notes and toasted vanilla bean. It has silky texture on the palate with polished tannins, a melange of ripe dark berries, anise, dark cherries, forest floor, charred cedar, toasty oak spice notes and a super long, lifted and luxurious finish. This is drinking really nice right now, but I would be tempted to lay a couple of bottles down through 2035.
Karlo Petite Pearl 2022 ($37, 90 points) — This is single variety hybrid grape grown at the estate. It’s winter hardy and displays a unique nose of wildflowers, dark berries, herbs, cocoa, anise, peppercorns and spices. It’s wild and untethered on the palate with juicy dark berries, ripe plums, anise/licorice, mulled herbs, black pepper, spice and a bright, fresh finish. Can cellar to 2032.
Karlo VanAlstine White 2021 ($36, 92 points) — Inspired by the fortified white Ports of Portugal, this wine comes from “a single vine in our vineyard that went through spontaneous mutation from Frontenac Noir to become Frontenac Gris and then mutated again to become Frontenac Blanc,” says Karlo. “We had our viticulturalist take clippings from one vine and graft them onto root stock so by the next spring we had enough vines to plant the first one-acre commercial planting of Frontenac Blanc in Ontario.” It has a highly unique nose pear, apricot, ripe apples, peach pie, ginger and spice. It’s rich and creamy on the palate with an array of ripe tropical fruits, poached pear, wild honey, apricot tart and just a hint of spice on a long, lush, balancing finish. A real treat to taste this.
Hubbs Creek Vineyard
Right across the road from Karlo is Hubbs Creek, not quite as fancy as Karlo but just as colourful and unique thanks to owner/winemaker Battista Calvieri (above). I try to make time to pop in at every chance I can when visiting the County.
Sadly, I just missed him on this trip (I wish his wife well as she recovers from an illness), but we tasted some of his wonderfully made County wines and bought some others to taste later during the trip and at home.
Hubbs Creek is a family run vineyard that was planted in 2002. Since then, there have been ups and downs in the vineyard and the work hasn’t been easy due to the harsh winter conditions in the County. But every vintage, Calvieri seems to come up with some interesting wines. Here are a few.
Hubbs Creek Pinot Gris 2024 ($29, 93 points) — This County estate Gris is bright and lifted on the nose with white peach, mango, lemon, yellow apples and saline minerality. It has a rounded texture on the palate with ripe orchard and tropical fruits, apricots, melon, wet stones, juicy salinity, a touch of spice and a lifted, bright finish.
Hubbs Creek Gamay 2022 ($30, 92 points) — This County grown Gamay has an impressive nose of juicy plums, Morello cherries, black brambly raspberries and subtle floral and herbaceous notes. It’s mouth-filling on the palate with an array of ripe berries, plums, underlying savoury/earthy notes, a smooth texture and bright finish. This scores a perfect 10 out 10 on the gulpable scale. Serve just a little chilled for maximum impact.
Hubbs Creek Papa’s Wine Field Blend 2021 ($20) — This is a bit of unicorn wine in the County. When I first tried to snag a bottle a few years ago, it was already sold out as locals snapped it up quickly once word got out. It’s a true field blend of whatever is left in the vineyard at the end of harvest, no matter the variety, all picked at once, all co-fermented, aged and bottled, a recipe passed down to Calvieri from his father. It’s the kind of wine that is all about sharing at the end of harvest or tossing it on ice to be enjoyed with good friends or family. It’s best described as a garagiste-style wine that brings a healthy dose of joie de vivre; nothing too serious and built for quaffing around a fire in tin cups with no pre-conceived notions. It’s rustic, fruity, herbaceous, loaded with red fruits and some earthy notes. It defies any kind of score, and won’t do so here, and is notable for its inherent friendly nature that celebrates all things friends and family. That’s it, an affordable unicorn County wine full of life and stories to be told.
The best of the rest
The following wines were purchased at the winery by my wife Maureen for tasting later at the B&B or taken home to taste at later date. All photos here, other than the bottle shots, were taken by my talented daughter Bri.
The Old Third Vineyard
A trip to the County is not complete without dropping in on Bruno Francois and Jens Korberg at their gorgeous converted barn with windows that overlook the vineyards that now stands as The Old Third’s tasting facility upstairs with working winery below.
Visiting The Old Third is both a beautiful experience and disappointing as they out of most everything they make come the fall. Francois and Korberg have dealt with unfortunate illnesses and loss of their vineyard but continue to put on brave face as they overcome the obstacles put in front of them.
They weren’t at the winery when Maureen and Bri visited but they were able to grab a bottle of their estate Pinot Noir. Photos are by Bri.
The Old Third Pinot Noir 2021 ($50, 94 points) — Maureen picked up a bottle of this for me to try as it has been a while since I’ve tasted Pinot from the Old Third or any estate wines at all. Not exactly sure of the price, but it was $50 the last time I was there. This is made from estate fruit, which was wild fermented with no filtering or fining. Just a lovely nose of rose petals, summer cherries, a touch of wild raspberries, subtle cassis and earthy/savoury notes. It’s rich and giving on the palate with melange of red berries, smooth tannins, floral notes, a touch reductive, anise, and mouth-watering acidity that dances light on the long, echoing finish. Beautiful!
Stoss Lee Wines
Stoss Lee (and sister brand Stock and Row Cider) are owned by Zoe (pictured above) and brother Kyle Marshall Nares with Zoe as the winemaker. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Melon de Bourgogne are the varieties grown at the estate with grapes (more Pinot and Chard, plus Cabernet Franc) sourced from The County and Niagara filling out the small production. Zoe also makes small batches of eclectic ciders either co-fermented, blended with wines or aged on grape skins.
The production is tiny from the two-acre home vineyard but what they do produce is fabulous.
Stoss Lee Melon 2024 ($34, 92 points) — This County estate Melon de Bourgogne was tank fermented and aged sur lie with light battonage and aging for eight months. It’s bottled unfiltered and unfined. There’s a generous helping of saline freshness on the nose that elevates the apricot, white peach and lemon/grapefruit fruits. It’s fresh and vibrant on the palate with some biscuity/leesy notes, razor sharp acidity, stone fruits and mouth-watering acidity on the back end. Sunshine in a glass!
Stoss Lee Intergalactic 2023 ($47, 93 points) — This is a 100% Pinot Noir made from two barrels of a blend of 50% Gilead Road Pinot from the County and 50% Vinemount Ridge Pinot from Niagara. It was tank fermented and aged for 18 months in French oak and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Only 500 bottles were made. It shows a lighter colour of red in the glass, but the aromas are lifted and profound with brambly raspberries, fresh cherries, red currants, violets, cassis, earthy/savoury notes and integrated spice. It’s rich, mouth-filling and silky on the palate with a melange of ripe red berries, purple plums, floral notes, minty herbs, a bit of spice and a long, finessed finish. Only 500 bottles released.
Closson Chase Vineyards
Closson Chase is a terroir-driven winery in Prince Edward County that helped spearhead the birth of the Prince Edward County wine industry. Winemaker Keith Tyers uses European traditions and innovative techniques to create wines from only the finest Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris grapes with the top examples from the single vineyard estate vineyards.
An early advocate for sustainable practices, Closson Chase crafts quality wines that reflect each individual vintage, capturing the distinct qualities imparted by the soil and climatic variations of the year.
Maureen and Bri visited the winery, tasted some wines tand brought back a County Chard and Pinot Noir for me to taste. They drank the Pinot before I could even get a sip. Thankfully, at least, they saved a little Chardonnay for me to taste.
Closson Chase South Clos Chardonnay 2022 ($50, 93 points) — Sourced entirely from the South Clos vineyard, this Chardonnay is whole cluster pressed, fermented and aged in French oak barrels (20% new oak) for 16 months, 20% with full malolactic fermentation in barrel. Such a beguiling nose of lemon pie, honeysuckle, yellow apples, creamy notes, underlying saline minerality and integrated spices. The ripe orchard fruits are joined by flinty minerality on the palate with nectarine, toasted almonds, citrus zest leading to a lifted long and finessed finish. Can cellar through 2031.
