Exploring the Craft Beer Scene in Lisbon
We recently spent two weeks in Portugal. My wife, Kim, and I dedicated a lot of time to exploring the local craft beer scene, visiting breweries, brewpubs, and taprooms. Like two beery versions of Vasco da Gama, we fearlessly charged into the unknown, certain we would find untold treasures. We did!
In this story, I share some of our craft beer discoveries in Lisbon, the City of Seven Hills. I decided to also provide some other advice to help make your beer adventure successful. (Photos by Kim Jones and Kendall Jones.)
The Emergence of Craft Beer in Portugal
A decade ago, locally brewed craft beer was exceedingly rare in Portugal. That has changed in recent years, especially in Lisbon and Porto, the two main cities. The scene is growing fast, and there’s no shortage of enthusiasm.
You’ll find some good beer in Portugal, but keep your expectations realistic, especially if you live in a craft beer hotbed like Seattle, where Kim and I live. Many of the breweries were started by homebrewers stepping out of their garages. Some were built by foreign investors bringing foreign know-how with them.
Remember that wine is the dominant adult beverage in Portugal. The Portuguese are rightfully proud of their wine and its history. The local wines are fantastic; if you are interested, I recommend giving them some attention. There’s much more than Vinho Verde and Port, typically the only Portuguese wine styles found stateside. But let’s talk about beer.
Lisbon Craft Beer Destinations
Here are my recommendations based on our trip to Lisbon in early 2025. Some of these destinations fit nicely with the other sightseeing you’ll be doing anyway, while others are an adventure unto themselves.
Canil Cerveja
One of the brewery’s two locations, Canil Baixa is just south of Praça Figueira and Praça do Rossio (two notable landmarks) in the Baixa de Lisboa (downtown Lisbon) neighborhood. We went there twice and joined the after-work crowd enjoying happy hour. Later in the evening, hand-holding young couples savored dinner and beers.
There’s a rockin’ edge, with plenty of hard rock music to accompany your beer. If there’s no local football match on the TVs, expect to see and hear something like a live Metallica video. The food menu offers a local interpretation of pub grub. The beer, brewed at another location, is solid. You’ll be in this popular, lively neighborhood anyway, so why not stop in for a beer? Canil translates to kennel in English. (Pronounced like: kah-Neeoo.) R. dos Douradores 133, 1100-213 Lisboa, Portugal.
Crafty Corner
Take the trolley up the hill and then wander downhill through the Alfama district. In this lovely, steep, and historic part of the city, you’ll discover narrow, pedestrian-only streets, hidden stairways, tiny shops, and balconies with iron railings waving drying laundry like prayer flags. Let a lazy stroll guide you to Crafty Corner.
This gorgeous beer bar is near Lisbon Cathedral and is part of that landmark’s history. The historic building once served as the cathedral’s stables. The tap list includes a dozen local and regional craft beers. Ask questions about the beers and the breweries. The staff at Crafty Corner is friendly and passionate about beer. The menu also offers tapas and sandwiches. R. de São João da Praça 95, 1100-519, Lisboa, Portugal.
Dois Corvos Cervejeira (Miravilla taproom)
Dois Corvos has three locations around town. One taproom at the brewery (fábrica) and two satellite taprooms. I recommend the Miravilla taproom because it’s right around the corner from another of our top recommendations, Fermentage. You’ll need to take the bus or an Uber because the Miravilla neighborhood is removed from the bustle of downtown in an industrial area that is home to galleries, studios, and creative people. About 20 minutes by bus and less by Uber.
Many locals will tell you that Dois Corvos makes some of the best beer in Lisbon and perhaps in Portugal. The tap list is long. The taproom is spacious. The beer menu is diverse, the food menu satisfies with hamburgers that earn rave reviews. (Pronounced like: doys COREvoos.) R. Cap. Leitão 94, 1950-052 Lisboa, Portugal.
Duque Brewpub
Up the hill, to the west of Praça do Rossio, along a steep, pedestrian-only street, Duque Brewpub is a pocket-sized taproom with a little brewing system tucked in a tight space behind the bar. Get a table out front and watch people huff-n-puff their way up the stairs. Sip your beer and imagine how kegs are delivered to the bars and restaurants up and down this vehicle-free street: Calçada do Duque.
They call it a brewpub, but Duque does not serve food like you might expect at a pub. Just snacks. We stayed nearby and were happy to have good beer near our hotel. I had more than a couple pints of their American Pale Ale. (Pronounce it like duke, but with a tiny bit of an uh instead of a hard k at the end.) Calçada do Duque 51, 1200-156 Lisboa, Portugal.
Fermentage
This was our second destination in the Miravilla neighborhood. The beer was some of the best we found in Portugal. This brewery and taproom have a definite vibe. It feels creative and fun, a bit weird and playful. When we visited, the crowd was warming up for a night of Mexican-style masked wrestling.
One of the beers was fashioned to resemble a mixed-berry smoothie in flavor, appearance, and texture. Don’t be afraid—they also had plenty of normal beer on the menu. It was good! The beer is complemented by a pizza-focused menu. A block away from Dois Corvos! R. Cap. Leitão 1B, 1950-049 Lisboa, Portugal.
LisPoa Craft Beer
The bustling neighborhood off the tourist path feels like real, work-a-day Lisbon. At this pint-sized brewery and taproom, the brewing equipment is behind glass, its shiny stainless steel lit up by colored lights. The beer menu, like the venue itself, is compact but satisfying. What’s with the name? English speakers call the city Lisbon, but the Portuguese call it Lisboa. LIS is the airport code for Lisbon and POA is the airport code for a major airport in Brazil. (Pronounce it like it’s spelled: Lis-Poah.) R. Nova do Desterro 29D, 1150-241 Lisboa, Portugal.
Outro Lado Craft Beer (Aguarela Beer Co.)
You’ll need to trust your navigation device. It’s tucked up an alley in the Alfama neighborhood, not far from the Cathedral and Crafty Corner (mentioned above). It’s easy to visit both destinations back-to-back. You’ll find more than a dozen beers on tap as well as bottles to go. Along with other local beers, the tap list includes beers from Aguarela Beer Co., one of the local breweries; Outro Lado serves as the brewery’s taproom. The food menu leans into Neapolitan-style pizza. Beco do Arco Escuro 1, 1100-585 Lisboa, Portugal.
The Queen Ale
This is a small taproom off the beaten path, removed from the touristy stuff, with a nice draft list of local beers and a lively happy hour. The Queen calls some of the beers her own. Local breweries make beers, collaboration style, on the bar’s behalf. When we visited, the staff (a one-man act: bartender, owner, brewer) was super friendly and happy to educate us about the beers and breweries featured on the menu. The Queen Ale feels very much like a neighborhood hangout, but it welcomes tourists as well. Very passionate about beer. Largo do Tab. 9, 1150-344 Lisboa, Portugal.
Delirium Café Lisboa
If you need a break from Portuguese craft beer, the Delirium taproom serves a full array of Delirium beers as part of a draft menu featuring over 30 beers, most of Belgian origin. The food was good, the Friday evening crowd was lively, and I enjoyed a Delirium Red, which provided a nice palate cleanser before I resumed exploring local craft beer. Calçada Nova de São Francisco 2A, 1200-289 Lisboa, Portugal.
Other Observations and Things to Know
Metric conversions. I frequently encountered beers offered in various sizes. Not so uniform as we see here in the U.S. Get used to your metric conversions: 25 cl is 8.5 oz., 40cl size is 13.5 oz., 50cl is about a regular pint.
Beer prices vary quite a bit, and I hesitate to say that beer is universally cheap in Portugal; however, I did encounter some very friendly prices. Prices at touristy bars and restaurants are not too different from what you’ll pay at home.
The Beer Museum (Museu da Cerveja). I mention it only because you’ll be tempted by the name. I agree with Rick Steves when he calls it “missable.” However, given its location on the Praça do Comércio, it offers good people-watching.
Super Bock and Sagres are omnipresent in Portugal. Someone told me not to waste my time with Sagres, but if you visit Portugal and do not try Super Bock it’s like going to Tuscany and not drinking Chianti. Super Bock is a medium-bodied lager. It is not very interesting, but is more flavorful than many of the “big” beers we drink in the U.S. In terms of style, it is not bock. To further confuse the matter, Super Bock introduced different beers to its lineup in recent years: Super Bock Stout, Super Bock Abadia (a red beer), and Super Bock Green (flavored with lemon and lime). I only drank the regular Super Bock.
Tipping. In broad terms, Portugal is not a tipping culture. That is, the tip is not expected like it is in the U.S., but it’s still a good idea. Tipping is a nice way to show your appreciation for good service. At bars and taprooms I often left 10 percent, whatever loose change I had, or rounded up the tab. Just because there’s no line on the bill for it, don’t skip the tip.
Getting Around
- Use Uber, not taxis. Uber is affordable in Lisbon, with predetermined rates, whereas taxi fares are “unpredictable.” I was told this by a local, and I experienced it myself. Uber is the answer.
- Lisbon is a city of many hills, hence its nickname: The City of Seven Hills. Get used to it. Use public transportation: buses, trolleys, funiculars, or just walk. Only one neighborhood in Lisbon is flat—the Baixa.
- If you are comfortable using public transportation, you are in luck. I will explain some options below. Lisbon’s transit system is affordable, robust, and easy to use, and I always felt safe. To protect yourself from professional pickpockets, zip it up, button it up, and don’t leave it hanging. The sooner you familiarize yourself with the Metro, bus, and trolley routes, the easier it will be to explore the city.
- The public transit is called Carris. The buses and trains are yellow. The trolleys are yellow or have a yellow Carris sign. The subway is called Metro.
- Other tourist-focused trolleys are also running around town: the red trolleys are a separate pass/fare. I don’t recommend it. Go with the Lisboa Card or the Navegante Card, which only work on the buses, trolleys, subway, and local trains–Carris as mentioned above.
Transit Passes
The Lisboa Card – The cost is based on the 24-hour, 48-hour, or 72-hour duration. A simple tap gets you on trolleys, funiculars, buses, subways (Metro), and local trains. It also grants you free or discounted access to many of the attractions, like museums and churches. If you plan to visit some of those, this card is a good way to go. It’s available at tourist information booths around town (ask at your hotel). You can get more info and even order one online. At the time of publishing, a 48-hour pass costs 42 € (euros).
For example, if you plan to take the train to Belem and see the sights there, as many folks do, the Lisboa Card will pay for itself immediately. In some cases, it will get you into the shorter line–the shorter line is for people who already have tickets or have a Lisboa Card.
Navegante Card (yellow card). This is a transit-only pass valid for trolleys, funiculars, buses, subway (Metro), and local trains. It is a prepaid card. It costs 0.50 € (50 cents) for the card itself and then you “zap it” with a value. The card is available from self-serve kiosks at any train station, subway station, and other places. At those kiosks, I always saw a nice transit employee in an orange vest available to guide you through the surprisingly simple process. Just tap it when you get onto a bus or train, etc. It’s awesome and easy. Put 20 € on your card and see how far it gets you. Add more value if you need. Learn more here.
Portuguese Language for Beer Drinkers
Likely, anyone you encounter around Lisbon speaks English, especially in the service industry. Portuguese kids have learned English in school for the past few decades. We were told that many people grew up watching Friends. Still, knowing at least some of the basics is always polite, respectful, and valuable. I’m no expert, but here’s what I picked up.
- Beer styles are beer styles. Stout needs no translation. They may say eepa, but they expect you to say IPA.
- Hello. Ola, very similar to Spanish.
- Good bye. Adeus. (ADDoo).
- Thanks! Men say obrigado and women say obrigada. Masculine versus feminine is based on who is speaking, not who is being spoken to. You’ll notice it shortened to something like brigado or brigada.
- Please. Por favor, just like Spanish.
- Excuse me (to get someone’s attention). Desculpe. De-SHKOOPeh.
- The bill, please. A conta, por favor (the check, please).
- No is noa. It is pronounced very close to no. Since you are an English speaker, just say no.
- Yes is sim. It is pronounced very close to si in Spanish. The m is there, but barely (SEEm).
- Good morning. Bom dia means good day/morning and is a common greeting before noon (bohm DEEah). Ola, bom dia! In the afternoon and evening, ola will suffice.
- One more. Mais um (mize oom).
- Two more. Mais dois (mize doys).
Staying in Lisbon
We visited Lisbon twice, starting the vacation there and returning a week later for the last leg of the trip. We stayed at two different hotels. Each was outstanding in its own way and offered a slightly different experience. We highly recommend My Story Rossio and Casa Balthazar.
MyStory Rossio is a lovely hotel situated right across the street from Praça do Rossio. It is a very convenient location with easy access to every type of transportation. Also, the Baixa de Lisboa district is right outside your door with plenty of shops, restaurants, and bars. We splurged on a fourth-floor room overlooking the Praça, with a view of the castle on the hill.
Casa Balthazar is a couple of steep blocks west of Praça do Rossio in the Baixa/Chiado area. It’s located on a quiet little street with plenty of restaurants and bars within easy walking distance. The rooms are lovely and each one is different, offering a wide variety of options and prices. If you’re looking for luxury and a boutique hotel experience, you’ve found it. As we mentioned, Duque Brewpub is right around the corner.
Off-Season, On Point! We would also recommend visiting during the low season. The weather in February was fine, with daytime highs in the low to mid-60s and lots of sunshine. It rained one day, but that’s it. The off-season offers smaller crowds and friendly prices for lovely hotel rooms—four-star hotels at three-star prices. Lisbon is a popular destination these days, and I cannot imagine what the crowds would be like during the busy season. February was plenty busy for us.
Fado at Duque da Rua
The heartfelt music of Portugal is high on the list for many visitors. For music lovers especially, it’s a can’t-miss experience that transcends the language. There is no shortage of restaurants offering fado performances along with dinner, but we were advised that Duque da Rue was among the best.
The space is tiny, and instead of a full dinner menu, the restaurant offers wine and tapas only (Super Bock, if you must). The musicians were great, and the experience was very intimate and fun. At one point, you might even find yourself singing along, even if you don’t understand what you’re saying. Highly recommended! We went twice!
Duque da Rua is cash only! There is no cover charge. You pay for your food and drinks and then tip the performers using the tip jar on the bar. Reservations are highly recommended. Call +351-917-216-761 in the afternoon (or have your hotel do it); reservations are typically available at 7:30 or 9:30.
Beer Map Lisbon
I’ve plotted some things out for you. Basically, I’ve mapped out the locations that I mentioned above. I encourage you to do your own exploring. Ask people questions while you’re there, and consider their recommendations.
