This article first appeared in Santé Magazine on August 2025
In the rolling hills of Chianti Classico, San Felice Winery is doing something remarkable: not just producing beautiful wines, but keeping a centuries-old viticultural heritage alive. With a rare blend of historical reverence and forward-thinking experimentation, San Felice has become one of the most innovative estates in Italy—uniting tradition, biodiversity, and craftsmanship in every bottle.
A Legacy Rooted in the Land
San Felice’s story begins in a small medieval hamlet in Castelnuovo Berardenga, where winemaking has long been part of the cultural fabric. In the 20th century, the estate evolved from local farming into a full-fledged wine producer, eventually becoming a reference point for quality in Chianti Classico.
Yet what truly sets San Felice apart is its deeper mission: not just to make great wine, but to protect the very biodiversity that defines Tuscan identity. While much of the wine world moved toward international varieties and standardized styles, San Felice took a different path—one of preservation, patience, and purpose.
The Vitiarium Project: A Living Archive of Tuscan Grapes
At the heart of this mission is the Vitiarium, one of the most visionary and long-term viticultural projects in Italy. Established in the 1980s, the Vitiarium is a specialized vineyard and research facility where over 200 ancient Tuscan grape varieties—many nearly lost to time—are cultivated, studied, and preserved.
This is not a public relations effort. It is scientific, cultural, and agricultural stewardship at its finest. The Vitiarium represents decades of hands-on research into the genetic heritage of the region’s native vines, a priceless resource in the fight against climate change, erosion of identity, and the loss of biodiversity in global viticulture.
San Felice’s commitment has positioned it as a quiet leader in sustainable, heritage-driven winemaking. Its work is increasingly recognized by academics, agronomists, and producers across Europe—proof that true innovation can come from looking back.
Leonardo Bellacini: A Winemaker with Vision
None of this would be possible without the creative and technical leadership of Leonardo Bellacini, San Felice’s longtime oenologist. Bellacini has overseen the transformation of historical research into modern, expressive wines that remain deeply rooted in the land.
His approach is both intellectual and intuitive: using advanced viticulture and cellar techniques while allowing the grapes to speak for themselves. The result is a portfolio of wines that are elegant, site-specific, and unmistakably Tuscan—but with depth and dimension few producers can match.
Wines That Speak of Place and Time
Here are four standout wines that embody San Felice’s unique philosophy—each with its own story, identity, and connection to the estate’s land and legacy:
- Borgo Chianti Classico DOCG 2022
A fresh, vibrant Chianti Classico that captures the easygoing beauty of San Felice’s medieval hamlet. The label’s old-print design echoes the timeless feel of the village itself, while the wine is full of red fruit, bright acidity, and classic Tuscan charm—perfect for everyday enjoyment with real depth behind it.
- Pieve Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2021
This refined Sangiovese-based wine is named after the 8th-century church that still stands within the estate. The label, inspired by its ancient frescoes, reflects the wine’s spirit: a graceful fusion of heritage and elegance. Complex, structured, and age-worthy, La Pieve is a benchmark of the Gran Selezione tier.
- Pugnitello Toscana IGT 2021
Made from the once-forgotten Pugnitello grape, rediscovered through the Vitiarium, this wine is bold, deep, and singular. It shows how powerful native varieties can be when nurtured with care. The minimalist label mirrors the wine’s purity and focus—an honest expression of research turned into revelation.
- In Avane Chardonnay Toscana IGT 2022
A Tuscan take on Chardonnay that’s anything but ordinary. With notes of honey, tropical fruit, and subtle spice, it’s lush yet finely balanced. The label’s saffron motif hints at the region’s agricultural roots, while the wine itself nods to San Felice’s ability to blend local identity with global style.
Where Heritage Meets the Future
The Vitiarium project isn’t just a vineyard—it’s one of Italy’s greatest contributions to the future of wine. By preserving native varieties and bringing them back into the conversation, San Felice has redefined what it means to be a custodian of terroir.
At a time when the wine world faces homogenization and ecological risk, San Felice stands apart—choosing complexity over convenience, and legacy over trend. It proves that sustainability isn’t just about farming practices; it’s about culture, biodiversity, and a long view of stewardship.
Under the guidance of Leonardo Bellacini, San Felice continues to craft wines that go beyond taste. They embody a philosophy. They speak of land, people, and centuries of knowledge. And in doing so, they invite drinkers not just to enjoy a bottle—but to join a legacy.
For those seeking more than just good wine—for those who crave authenticity, beauty, and meaning—San Felice offers a journey. One rooted in the past, but always reaching forward.
