Nizza: Barbera’s Rise to DOCG Stardom

This article first appeared in Santé Magazine on July 2025

The verdant, rolling hills of Monferrato in Piedmont, Italy, have long been a cradle of winemaking tradition. For centuries, the Barbera grape, known for its vibrant acidity and approachable fruit, has thrived here, often producing delightful, easy-drinking wines. However, a transformative shift has occurred in recent decades, culminating in the establishment of the Nizza DOCG in 2014. This prestigious appellation has elevated Barbera to new heights, showcasing its capacity for complexity, structure, and remarkable aging potential. A key player in this remarkable ascent, consistently bringing quality wines to market and raising the profile of Nizza, is Ricossa Winery.

The Genesis of Nizza: A Quest for Excellence

The journey to Nizza DOCG was a testament to the collective vision and dedication of local producers. Recognizing the unique microclimates and specific soil compositions within a designated area of the Monferrato, particularly around the town of Nizza Monferrato, winemakers began to envision a higher standard for Barbera. This area, encompassing 18 communes, boasts ancient, shallow seabed soils of the Pliocene era, characterized by sands, sandy marls, and sandstones. These diverse terrains, coupled with ideal hillside exposures (south, southwest, and southeast), provide optimal conditions for Barbera to express its finest characteristics.

Nizza’s Ascent to Italian Wine Royalty: Focus on Terroir

The historical roots of Nizza as a superior Barbera territory run deep, with documents from as early as the 17th century mentioning its prized Barbera. However, its formal recognition as a top-tier appellation is a more recent, deliberate evolution driven by the ambition of its producers.

The path to DOCG status was a carefully orchestrated progression:

• 2000: “Nizza” first appeared as a sub-zone of Barbera d’Asti DOC Superiore.
• 2002: The Nizza Producers’ Association formed to champion its distinct identity.
• 2008: Nizza was included when Barbera d’Asti achieved DOCG.
• 2014: Nizza DOCG – An Independent Star: After years of dedicated work on refining regulations and demonstrating consistent quality, Nizza gained its own independent DOCG status with the 2014 vintage. This was a pivotal moment, allowing Nizza to shed its “sub-zone” identity and stand alone, with a name that exclusively emphasizes its territory and unique character, much like other revered Italian DOCGs such as Barolo

The Nizza DOCG disciplinary is Italy’s most stringent, mirroring Barolo and Barbaresco. Key regulations include:

• 100% Barbera: Mandates pure Barbera expression.
• Limited Production Area: Only 18 specific communes, ensuring grapes from prime sites.
• Strict Yields: Low yields guarantee concentration; wines cannot be made in poor vintages if natural ripeness isn’t met.
• Extended Aging: Minimum 18 months for Rosso (6 months wood) and 30 months for Riserva (12 months wood).
• Alcohol Content: Minimum 13% ABV (13.5% for “Vigna”).
• Terroir Focus: Exclusively hillside vineyards with optimal sun exposure.

These strictures ensure Nizza wines are a profound expression of a unique “terroir”—a harmonious blend of climate, soil, landscape, and human tradition. The resulting wines are intense, complex, full-bodied, and have a harmonious, rounded finish.

Ricossa Winery: A Pillar in Nizza’s Rise

Ricossa Winery, with its roots tracing back to a distillery owned by the Ricossa family in the late 1800s on the outskirts of Asti, has evolved into a globally recognized name synonymous with quality Piedmontese wines. Located in Castel Boglione, nestled within the very heart of the Nizza DOCG production area, Ricossa has been a steadfast proponent of Barbera’s potential.

Ricossa’s impact on the Nizza region and its contribution to bringing quality wines to market can be seen through several key aspects:

• Deep-Rooted Commitment to the Territory: With over a century of presence in Piedmont, Ricossa embodies a philosophy deeply respectful of the land and its traditions. Their vineyards, spanning over 120 hectares in prime areas of Langhe, Roero, and Monferrato, include significant holdings within the Nizza DOCG. This extensive vineyard ownership and strong collaboration with local farmers demonstrate their dedication to sourcing the finest Barbera grapes.
• Embracing Nizza’s Potential: Ricossa was an early and enthusiastic adopter of the Nizza DOCG framework. Their commitment to adhering to, and often exceeding, the stringent appellation regulations has been crucial in setting a benchmark for quality. Their Nizza DOCG wines, such as the “Noceto,” exemplify the power and elegance that Barbera can achieve in this specific terroir.
• Modern Interpretations and Winemaking Expertise: Ricossa’s enological team combines passion with dedication, striving to achieve the best expression of the Piedmontese terroirs. While honoring traditional winemaking techniques, they also embrace research and innovation to continually improve quality and sustainability. This balanced approach allows them to craft Nizza wines that are both true to their heritage and appealing to contemporary palates. Their emphasis on respecting the rhythms of nature and enhancing the unique character of each vineyard block further contributes to the distinctiveness of their wines.

Ricossa Noceto: A Testament to Terroir and Craft

Ricossa Noceto Nizza DOCG is a prime example of the winery’s dedication to showcasing the very best of the Nizza appellation. This wine derives its name from “Noceto sopra il Monte,” a mapped cru (a specific vineyard area recognized for its quality) within the Nizza appellation, highlighting its precise vineyard origin and terroir-driven approach.

Produced entirely from 100% Barbera grapes, the Noceto reflects the stringent DOCG regulations, ensuring concentration and complexity. It undergoes a minimum of 18 months of aging, including at least 6 months in wood, allowing its rich characteristics to develop.

Noceto is a luxurious wine that typically presents a deep ruby red color, which evolves into a beautiful garnet hue with age. On the nose, it offers an intense and complex bouquet, featuring elegant balsamic hints of thyme and sage, often complemented by notes of licorice, vanilla, and a touch of cocoa. The palate is full-bodied, harmonious, silky, lush, and round.

Ricossa Noceto exemplifies the heights that Barbera can achieve within the Nizza DOCG, showcasing the unique characteristics of its specific vineyard site and the winery’s unwavering dedication to quality.

In Sum: Nizza’s Iconic Revival

The story of Nizza is one of an emerging star, a testament to the Barbera grape’s versatility and capacity for greatness when cultivated in a truly exceptional terroir. Ricossa Winery stands as a vital pillar in this narrative. Through their unwavering commitment to quality and deep respect for the land, Ricossa has not only helped elevate Nizza wines but also played a crucial role in bringing these remarkable expressions of Piedmontese winemaking excellence to wine enthusiasts worldwide. The winery remains at the vanguard of making Nizza not just recognized, but revered among the greatest wine appellations of Italy.