Bordeaux and the Dordogne – John Tanner’s Barbecue Blog

I highly recommend this cruise. We’ve been on the Viking Lyon to Avignon and the Romantic Danube with pre- and post-cruise extensions, and while the cruises have much in common, this one was unique in many ways, and terrific fun.

It’s an especially good cruise with a stay before or after in Bordeaux. Nancy and I spent five nights on our own in Bordeaux, and boarded ship agreeing that we enjoyed Bordeaux even more than Paris, which we dearly love. Bordeaux is like Paris without the crowds. It’s architecturally similar, low-rise with stately limestone buildings, and astounding medieval city gates.

And it’s amazingly walkable, with most streets limited to pedestrians and deliveries. Bordeaux has fewer Michelin-starred restaurants certainly, but it boasts more cafes per capita than any city in France — and we tend to prefer the pace, informality, and prices of cafes. There is some time for some touring while the boat is docked in Bordeaux, but only enough to scratch the surface, and Bordeaux offers so much to see.

While in Bordeaux, we stayed in — and recommend — the historic Grand Hôtel Français Bordeaux. The staff is friendly and helpful and it’s an easy walk to … everything. I posted reviews of each place we ate along with photos and a description of our pre-meal activities, all handily collected here, and together they offer a detailed overview of the city. With that background, let’s go on the cruise.

Unlike our previous Viking cruises, Romantic Danube and Lyon to Avignon, this was a round trip cruise in a tighter area with much shorter distances between stops. We thus often visited two towns in a single day. Still, we had a wonderful taste of the riverside and the many humble fishing cabins,

splendid chateaux,

sunsets,

the occasional wedding,

and the Libourne tidal bore on the Dordogne. Each town was ancient and full of charm, and often dated back to Roman times. These small towns supported and served the vast vineyards that create Bordeaux’s famous wines. Most were walled and nobly gated,

and some boasted fortresses guarding the river approaches to Bordeaux, including the Citadelle de Bourg

and the 55-acre Citadelle de Blaye designed by Vauban, both UNESCO world heritage sites.

We always docked right on the verge of each town, so no extended walking was necessary, although there were some gentle hills to climb. The trip also involved some time on buses to get to towns like St. Emilion,

with rides through fields of vineyards with church towers in the distance and beside the road, chateau

after chateau,

and a close-up look at Chateau Margaux.

After the rides, wine awaited us.

The sequence of stops along the rivers often put us at the dock right by sights, tastes, and shopping at the local weekly market in the center of town. Indeed, the cruise got off to a world-class start because the ship docked right next to the market,

where I enjoyed another classic Bordeaux breakfast. The most interesting market was in Cadillac, where we strolled perhaps 100 yards from the boat to the market past a middle-aged group doing the Electric Slide, and then into the lovely town center.

Our local guide steered us past some seductive pastries

and set us loose among the busy sellers of everything from live chickens(!) to appliances, and even a vending machine pizza(!!).

Nancy bought a very nice jacket at one stand and I had my first escargot en brochette with garlic cloves and sun-dried tomatoes at another,

all within steps of a magnificent Ducal castle.

The local tours also took us to some lovely churches, like this one with a crown of thorns chandelier

and lots of shops and buildings with gorgeous architectural details. Then it was back to the ship for our meals — usually.

There were many extra excursion opportunities, and Nancy and I plunked down for the excursion to Arcachon Bay, a broad, shallow bay famous for the local seafood, especially oysters. These are farmed in the Bay in closely guarded proprietary areas marked off by miles of seemingly indistinguishable sticks.

Many of the humble waterside cabins also serve food with strictly limited menus: oysters and shrimp — plus the French essentials, bread, butter, and wine … and pâté. Our group indulged — here’s one of the oyster platters.

Most people ate only one or none but enjoyed learning about oysters and the local economy. Don’t worry, though. I made sure that none went to waste. We then moved to a pretty beachside restaurant

where we had a delicious seafood lunch — grilled seiches and cabillaud — followed by time to walk on the beach or tour the town. Afterwards we sailed back to Arcachon, boarded the bus, and had a longish bus ride back to the ship in time for dinner. And perhaps a drink.

In keeping with the region, there was wine, good wine indeed. We didn’t get the Silver Package this time. I guessed — correctly — that the included local wines in Bordeaux would be very good. I did occasionally order from the “special” wine list, but not often enough to warrant the cost of the package. And I’ll say that the wine flowed very freely indeed on the cruise, and Conti, in hosting the dining room, regularly appeared at tables with special bottles. There also were abundant opportunities to buy special wines grown locally. And there was a pre-dinner complimentary cocktail party for us Viking Cruise “veterans.”

There also was a grand off-ship dinner for us all in the great hall of Chateau Kirwin in the Margaux AOC.

And it was quite a grand dinner with four courses

and three wine pairings

Ah, such good food and wine! Each wine was a joy and the Chateau Kirwan with the filet course especially was outstanding. All were served generously and the dinner was terrific fun. Amazingly, the crew carted everything for the dinner from tables to teaspoons from the ship before the meal — and then cleaned up and packed up afterwards, all without disturbing the ship’s routine.

The regular real service on board also was good and abundant. Nancy and I both had minimal breakfasts, but Viking provided an abundant and ever-changing buffet as well as dishes on order; and the cofee and pastry stations outside the dining room kept busy throughout the day. The dinner menus always included Regional Specialties as well as standard offerings that always included meat, seafood, and vegetarian dishes,

and the kitchen happily accommodated special requests for those with conditions, allergies, or whims. Lunch menus included the same variety and flexibility, but more casual offerings, including burgers and hot dogs for the homesick. The food was abundant and tasty, like this duck confit

and this delicious cabillaud fillet.

Did I mention dessert? Here’s a nice. one

and another.

They even had a special dessert for a couple celebrating their 50th anniversary. Very happily, I can assure you.

Alas, the cruise had to come to an end. We disembarked and took a cab to the train station where we hopped aboard the fast train. On to Paris!

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