Hanhart 415 ES Pure Chronograph (Review) – The Watch McQueen Didn’t Wear — But Should Have! – KaminskyBlog
When it comes to German tool watches with military roots, few names resonate with as much historical weight as Hanhart. Founded in 1882, this Black Forest-based manufacturer carved a legacy out of precision timing instruments, particularly in the realm of aviation and motor racing. While brands like IWC or Sinn may get more mainstream love, Hanhart holds a special place in the hearts of enthusiasts — and for good reason. To know more about Hanhart’s rich history read my other article where I dive deeper into Hanhart’s multi faceted history.
When it comes to famous models, the Hanhart 417 ES is probably the brand’s best-known timepiece, famously worn by Steve McQueen. But what many may not know is that the 417 ES had a lesser-known sibling: the 415 ES. The reissue 415 ES collection is based on the vintage model originally introduced in the 1960s. With its distinctive bidirectional rotating bezel featuring a 60-minute scale and the historic winged logo, the original set new standards in chronograph design. Today, Hanhart embraces that legacy, reimagining the 415 ES with the highest standards of modern watchmaking. The updated color scheme enhances the watch’s classic elegance and emphasizes its clean, functional design. The current lineup includes two versions: the 415 ES Iconic, which features a gilt-style dial reminiscent of the vintage aesthetic, and the 415 ES Pure, which takes a cleaner, more contemporary approach by omitting the gilt accents. It’s the latter — the Pure — that I’ll be reviewing today. I also have to say a big thank you to Felix and Franz from Hanhart for sending in the sample for review — your support is greatly appreciated!
The watch came in a simple but elegant package — nothing flashy, just what you’d expect from a brand that values substance over gimmicks. Inside, along with the usual warranty card and manual, was a very impressive black leather travel pouch. Now that’s the kind of packaging I appreciate: practical, high-quality, and actually useful. The pouch is beautifully made — definitely one of the nicest I’ve seen. But let’s talk about the star of the show — the watch itself. Right out of the pouch, the 415 ES Pure made an impression. The design is clean, the finishing sharp, and the whole piece has a confident, no-nonsense character that instantly clicks with fans of vintage-inspired tool watches.
Having handled the Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster, which sits in a similar design and price bracket, I couldn’t help but compare the two. And honestly? Hanhart edges ahead. The dial on the 415 ES Pure is crisper, the case finishing is more refined, and it just feels more cohesive on the wrist. Don’t get me wrong — Nivada has done a stellar job with the Chronomaster — but the Hanhart feels a touch more dialed-in in every aspect. It’s the kind of watch that makes a strong first impression and only gets better the more time you spend with it.
The 39mm stainless steel case is an exact nod to the original 415 ES, offering vintage-accurate sizing in a market often obsessed with bulk. With a thickness of 13.5mm (including the domed sapphire crystal) and a lug-to-lug length of 46mm, the watch hits the wrist with purpose without overwhelming it. It feels tool-like, compact, and balanced — everything you’d want in a heritage-inspired chronograph. Case finishing is utilitarian but refined. The mid-case has a satin brushed finishing that is one of the best I have seen, definitely can rival watches that cost 5 figures. The polished bevels around the lugs add just enough contrast to catch light and give the design dimensionality.
A major feature is the bidirectional fluted bezel with a black ceramic inlay. It clicks 60 times per rotation, and the feedback is tactile and mechanical, a satisfying companion to the hand-wound movement ticking inside. The ceramic is matte rather than gloss, keeping the aesthetic tool-focused. On the right side of the case, you’ll find the signature pump pushers and a signed push-pull crown. Both the pushers and crown feature a high-polish finish, adding a touch of shine to the otherwise tool-focused case. The top of the crown is proudly engraved with the Hanhart logo, adding a nice visual detail. The pushers offer a satisfying, precise click with each activation — exactly what you’d want from a chronograph designed for functional use. The crown has excellent grip and is easy to operate, making time-setting smooth and intuitive.
At the back, the watch features a solid screw-down caseback, finely engraved with Hanhart’s vintage winged logo on beadblasted background. This construction contributes to the watch’s 100-meter water resistance — a notable upgrade from the original version, which offered only minimal splash protection. However, despite the 100m rating, it’s worth noting that the crown and pushers are not screw-down. So, while it’s more than adequate for everyday wear, including exposure to rain or the occasional splash, swimming or full submersion isn’t recommended.
The dial on the 415 ES is a matte black finish with a white printed tachymeter scale running around the outer edge. Also present is the red 100th scale, often overlooked or misunderstood. This is actually a decimal scale, dividing each minute into 100 parts to allow for decimal time conversion — a feature historically used in industrial or scientific timing. It’s designed to work in tandem with the chronograph, making it easier to translate elapsed time into decimal values, especially useful in calculations involving cost or production metrics. A classic example (provided by Omega in its vintage Speedmaster manual) involves timing how long it takes to complete a repetitive task — say, cutting a screw. By starting the central seconds hand of the chronograph when the production-line worker picked up the screw and stopping it when he picked up the second screw, the overseer could come up with a decimal reading making life simpler when having to make longer calculations. While you might not be timing factory work with your Hanhart today, it’s a cool nod to the brand’s utilitarian heritage and functionality-driven roots.
Moving inwards, the hour markers are a faithful throwback to the original — clean white Arabic numerals paired with arrow-shaped markers for strong legibility. The subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock are slightly recessed, adding depth to the dial layout. The 9 o’clock subdial handles running seconds, while the 3 o’clock subdial serves as a 30-minute chronograph counter. In fact, Hanhart has created an almost one-to-one reissue with this model. Aside from the updated right subdial function due to the Sellita SW510 M movement and a few minor changes to the hand design, this is a remarkably faithful revival of the vintage 415 ES.
The pencil-shaped hands are filled with Super-LumiNova X1, giving off a soft green glow in low light. The hour markers use Super-LumiNova X2, but here’s the honest truth — the lume isn’t particularly impressive. It’s functional, but it doesn’t last long or shine as brightly as you might expect from a watch with tool/aviation-watch DNA. Just above the 12 o’clock position is the vintage Hanhart winged logo, a subtle yet powerful emblem tying the design back to its aviation heritage. And details like the slightly curved tips on the hands — designed to reduce parallax error — show that this isn’t just a pretty face. It’s a watch clearly crafted with input from engineers as much as designers.
Inside the 415 ES Pure beats the Sellita SW510 M, a hand-wound chronograph movement based on the legendary Valjoux 7750 architecture. While the 7750 is usually automatic, Sellita’s M-series movements strip away the rotor for a slimmer profile and that delicious manual wind interaction. This manual-winding caliber offers a 58-hour power reserve, 23 jewels, and operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz). It’s a cam-actuated chronograph, not a column wheel, but the pushers still deliver a satisfying, mechanical click — especially the reset, which feels direct and deliberate. Notably, Hanhart regulates the movement in-house to run within +8 seconds per day, showing they’re not just slapping in an off-the-shelf caliber. This level of care in finishing and regulation is rare at this price point. Winding the crown is smooth and offers a tactile reminder of the watch’s mechanical heart. There’s a hacking seconds feature as well, making it easy to set the time precisely. Would a flyback or column wheel be nice? Sure. But the price-to-performance ratio here is impressive, and Hanhart’s decision to go manual-wind reinforces the historical purity of the model.
The Hanhart 415 ES Pure ships on a stitched calfskin leather strap, available in black (the one we have here) or light and dark brown. It’s thick but pliable and pairs beautifully with the vintage styling of the case. A stainless steel tang buckle (signed with Hanhart’s logo) keeps the aesthetic period-appropriate. Underneath, the strap is lined with Alcantara, a soft, suede-like material that adds a touch of modern luxury and all-day wearability. This may not be visible, but you’ll feel the difference after several hours on the wrist. Strap width is 20mm at the lugs, tapering slightly toward the buckle at 18mm. And unlike some heritage reissues, Hanhart included a quick-release spring bar system, allowing you to swap straps in seconds without tools. This simple feature adds major usability points. The watch wears exceptionally well on the wrist, with a strap that’s both supple and comfortable, conforming effortlessly to your wrist. While I genuinely appreciate the stock strap, I’ve also experimented with a variety of alternatives—including bright-colored options—and I have to say, this watch is a true strap monster. Whether it’s leather, canvas, NATO, or rubber, it pairs seamlessly with just about anything. No matter what you throw at it, the watch looks fantastic.
The Hanhart 415 ES Pure is a masterclass in how to revive a vintage chronograph with modern precision and integrity. It’s not just a reissue for the sake of nostalgia — it’s a carefully considered timepiece that pays respect to its historical roots while embracing the expectations of today’s watch enthusiast. From the crisp dial execution and impeccable case finishing to the satisfying mechanics of its hand-wound movement, the 415 ES Pure is a watch that doesn’t just look the part — it feels it. What stands out most is how cohesive the entire package is. Nothing feels out of place or overdesigned. Every element, from the tactile bezel to the engraved caseback and functional pump pushers, speaks to Hanhart’s longstanding ethos: form follows function, but with elegance. It’s a watch with presence but not pretense — understated, rugged, and refined all at once.
For those who appreciate heritage-inspired chronographs, tool-watch practicality, and manual-wind charm, the 415 ES Pure delivers a compelling value proposition. It’s not chasing trends or mimicking luxury cues — it’s doing its own thing, and doing it well. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a first-time buyer looking for a historically significant, beautifully built chronograph, this is a piece that’s easy to love and hard to fault. In a crowded field of retro reissues and vintage homages, the Hanhart 415 ES Pure earns its place not just as a nod to the past — but as a modern classic in its own right.
