Pequignet Concorde Titanium 36mm (Review) – Form, Function, France! – KaminskyBlog
Today, we’re exploring a watch brand that I’ve been familiar with for quite some time, thanks to a personal connection—some years ago, friends of mine were among the authorized dealers for this brand in my country. What makes this especially intriguing is that, despite its rich heritage and exceptional craftsmanship, Pequignet remains relatively under the radar for many watch enthusiasts. So, if the name doesn’t ring a bell, you’re certainly not alone. To better appreciate what sets this French manufacture apart, let’s take a closer look at its fascinating history.
Located in the heart of France’s Jura region, Pequignet has been a beacon of French watchmaking excellence since its founding in 1973 by visionary self-taught craftsman Émile Péquignet in Morteau. From its earliest days, the brand distinguished itself with elegant and original designs—particularly for women—earning five “Cadran d’Or” awards and standing apart from the predominantly male-oriented styles of the time. Over the decades, Pequignet developed a reputation for combining innovation with refined aesthetics. In 1984, it introduced the now-iconic “Moorea” bracelet, known for its articulated link design, and in 1987, it launched the Equus line—a tribute to Émile Péquignet’s love for the equestrian world. Even during the challenging quartz crisis, the brand stayed true to its creative vision and independent spirit.
The 2000s marked a new era of transformation. In 2004, entrepreneur Didier Leibundgut took the reins and invested in building a high-end watchmaking laboratory. This culminated in 2011 with the launch of the Calibre Royal®, a groundbreaking achievement: the first fully in-house French mechanical movement in decades. With 318 components, 8 patents, and an emblematic lily motif, it cemented Pequignet’s place among the elite names in haute horlogerie. Recognition followed swiftly. In 2014, Pequignet was awarded the prestigious Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (EPV) label, recognizing excellence in French craftsmanship. In the years that followed, the brand saw further leadership changes and strategic backing, leading to the release of the Calibre Royal Manuel® in 2018 and the modern Calibre Initial® in 2021—each reinforcing Pequignet’s commitment to innovation and independence. To mark its 50th anniversary in 2023, Pequignet unveiled the Concorde collection, a modern design celebrating both heritage and forward-thinking horology. In 2024, the brand debuted its first flying tourbillon—a stunning technical feat limited to just 24 pieces and a symbol of its ambitions on the global stage. Today, Pequignet remains proudly independent and entirely based in France, with all watches and movements designed, developed, and assembled in Morteau. It continues to champion a distinctly French interpretation of luxury timekeeping—elegant, sophisticated, and unconstrained by convention.
From simple three-hand in-house movements to complex tourbillons and other complications, Pequignet has quietly built an impressive portfolio of in-house calibres over the years—something only a select group of watchmakers can truly boast. And yet, it remains a mystery to me why this brand isn’t more widely known—at least not in my part of Europe. That said, today we’re turning our attention to their latest release from the Concorde collection. This newest iteration comes in a refined 36mm case, crafted entirely in titanium, and is powered by their in-house Calibre Initial®. Before beginning the review, I’d like to extend my sincere thanks to the team at Pequignet for providing the Concorde for review.
The watch arrived with an oversized Pequignet box, with the timepiece itself sealed separately in a plastic pouch. I must admit, I was taken aback by the sheer size of the box. Inside, you’ll find a white leather travel pouch, placed beside a compartment intended to display the watch. While I appreciate the effort Pequignet put into the presentation, the packaging could easily be reduced to half its size. A compact box designed to house just the travel pouch would be far more practical. As my regular readers know, I’m a strong advocate for minimalist, reusable, and practical packaging. Large boxes typically end up tucked away in a closet, collecting dust until the day comes to sell or trade the watch.
First impressions of the watch itself were very positive. I was genuinely surprised by how lightweight it is—just 84 grams with all the links included. It came perfectly sized for my 18cm wrist, which brings me to a thoughtful service Pequignet offers: they size the watch based on your wrist measurement and include additional links if needed. The sizing range is generous, from 14 cm to 22.5 cm, which is quite impressive. As far as I know, Pequignet is one of the few brands offering this service at no extra cost, whereas others typically charge for additional links. Another standout detail for me is the bead-blasted finish on the titanium. It’s a texture I’ve always appreciated, reminiscent of the finish on my Minus-8 Dive watch. It gives the watch a subtle, utilitarian aesthetic that I’ve long admired.
The case features a cushion-shaped design with subtle square contours, crafted from high-grade Grade 5 titanium. It boasts a finely executed shot-blasted finish, complemented by an anti-fingerprint coating—a thoughtful and practical addition, as titanium with a sandblasted texture typically tends to attract fingerprints. This coating not only enhances aesthetics but also keeps the watch looking clean and refined throughout daily wear. The machining is outstanding, with crisp lines, sharp transitions, and a high level of precision that reflects exceptional craftsmanship. The uniformity of the finish across both the case and the integrated bracelet is particularly impressive—evidence of careful, consistent manufacturing. Measuring 36mm in width and 9.25mm in thickness (including the crystal), the watch falls on the more compact end of the spectrum. On my 18cm wrist, it wears comfortably and proportionately. In recent years, I’ve come to appreciate the practicality and elegance of smaller case sizes, particularly for daily wear in a professional setting. Thanks to its lightweight titanium construction, the Concorde wears effortlessly—you barely notice it on the wrist, making it an ideal everyday timepiece.
The bezel follows the square-ish form of the case and frames a round dial opening, topped by a flat sapphire crystal. Around the back, a six-screw exhibition caseback showcases the beautifully decorated Pequignet in-house caliber, protected by another flat sapphire crystal. At 3 o’clock sits a push-pull crown adorned with Pequignet’s embossed Fleur-de-Lys emblem. The crown offers good tactile feedback and grip, but I would have preferred a screw-down design for added security, especially considering the 100m (10 ATM) water resistance rating. While technically swim-capable, I’d advise against submersion due to the push-pull crown. Overall, the case design is distinct and thoughtfully executed, offering a unique aesthetic and identity. It’s a refined, modern interpretation of a classic form—purposeful, lightweight, and beautifully finished.
The dial continues the cohesive aesthetic of the watch with a matching titanium-tone finish. While it’s not explicitly confirmed whether the dial itself is made of titanium, Pequignet refers to it as “Titanium Grey Colour” on their official site. This brushed vertical texture adds a subtle yet refined depth to the otherwise minimalist dial. In contrast to the cushion-shaped case, the dial itself is round, contributing to the overall balance and symmetry of the design. It’s kept deliberately clean and understated—there’s no date window, no excess branding or text, just a focused, minimal execution. Around the outer edge, a black-printed minute track provides subtle structure without disrupting the dial’s simplicity. The hour markers are applied in black, aligning harmoniously with the overall monochromatic palette.
At 12 o’clock, a black Pequignet logo is neatly placed, while “Manufacture Française” is discreetly printed at 6 o’clock along the dial’s edge. Personally, I would have appreciated a small Fleur-de-Lys emblem integrated somewhere—perhaps at the tip of the seconds hand or subtly applied elsewhere. Still, the restrained design is arguably one of its greatest strengths. One of my favorite aspects of the Concorde Titanium is its no-date layout. In my view, a date complication is often unnecessary on a daily wear watch. The convenience of simply setting the time and wearing the watch without fiddling with date alignment is a welcome simplicity. It saves time and adds to the ease of use. The partially skeletonized hands are finished in black and filled with Super-LumiNova X1 (green emission), offering excellent legibility in low light. Overall, the dial design prioritizes clarity and balance—exactly what you want from a refined everyday timepiece.
Before diving into the movement, I should acknowledge my previous skepticism around French-made calibers—particularly after a disappointing experience with Yema. In that case, both my watchmaker and I suspected the movement was not genuinely manufactured in France, but rather outsourced, potentially from China, with poor finishing and questionable assembly quality. With Pequignet, however, the story is entirely different. Pequignet is impressively transparent about its production processes and parts sourcing. The “Calibre Initial” movement is composed entirely of components manufactured within an 80 km radius of Morteau, in the heart of French watchmaking country. According to the brand, 72% of the components are made in France, with the remaining 28% sourced from Switzerland—an origin that inspires confidence among watch enthusiasts. I truly appreciate the brand’s clarity and honesty here, especially in contrast to brands like Yema, which have been vague or evasive about such details. As for the movement itself, Pequignet didn’t hold back. The Calibre Initial is a fully in-house development. It features a sandblasted finish with an anthracite Ruthenium coating that complements the titanium aesthetic of the case and dial. Operating at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), it contains 21 jewels and offers an impressive 65-hour power reserve. The rotor is subtly decorated with the brand’s Fleur-de-Lys emblem, tying it into the overall visual identity of the watch.
To gain a deeper perspective, I consulted my watchmaker, Imants Jansons, for his professional assessment. His evaluation was overwhelmingly positive: the movement is cleanly assembled with no visible smudges or scratches, and the individual components are well-machined and finished exceptionally—at least from what’s visible through the display back. He noted the movement is properly lubricated, well-executed, and built to a high standard. Personally, I admire the minimalist aesthetic of the movement. It doesn’t rely on decorative techniques like Geneva stripes or perlage, which I feel suits the overall utilitarian and modern character of the watch. My particular example is running at an excellent +1 second per day with an amplitude of 334 degrees—well within chronometer-grade performance. The stated 65-hour power reserve also holds true in real-world use. In short, I can say only positive things about the Calibre Initial. It’s thoughtfully designed, well-finished, and proudly made with regional integrity—everything you’d hope for in an in-house movement.
The integrated bracelet is crafted from Grade 5 titanium, continuing the watch’s cohesive and lightweight design. Like the case, it features a fine sandblasted finish that complements the overall aesthetic beautifully. The individual links are uniquely shaped in a “spear point” style—a subtle but meaningful design cue that pays tribute to the Obelisk of Place de la Concorde in Paris. Each link is secured with screw pins, which is a welcome detail for those who prefer easy sizing and solid construction. The articulation between links is excellent, allowing the bracelet to drape naturally over the wrist and provide a high level of comfort. It wears effortlessly—no hair pulling, no stiffness, just smooth, ergonomic performance throughout the day.
The clasp is a hidden folding style, constructed from stainless steel and finished with a contrasting polished surface. Interestingly, Pequignet’s website indicates that the clasp is made from titanium, rather than stainles steel (Update: Pequignet has informed me that the clasp on production models will be made of titanium). The clasp functions well and integrates seamlessly into the bracelet design. The closing point is discreetly signed with the Fleur-de-Lys emblem, adding a nice touch of branding without disrupting the minimalist aesthetic. One suggestion I’d have for future releases—or even as an accessory offering—would be the inclusion of a rubber strap option. During summer months, when wrist size can fluctuate due to heat, a rubber strap would offer more flexibility and breathability, especially since the bracelet doesn’t feature any on-the-fly micro-adjustment (Update: A rubber strap is beeing developed for this model and will be available at the end of 2025). That said, the bracelet is exceptionally well-executed as it stands. It’s beautifully made, comfortable, and harmonizes with the watch’s refined and functional design language.
Pequignet’s Concorde Titanium 36mm is a compelling example of what can happen when heritage, design, and technical mastery come together with quiet confidence. From its lightweight Grade 5 titanium construction to the beautifully restrained dial and in-house Calibre Initial® movement, this watch is a testament to Pequignet’s enduring commitment to independence and refinement. It’s thoughtfully engineered, elegantly understated, and deeply rooted in a distinctly French approach to horology—one that doesn’t chase trends but instead focuses on authenticity, innovation, and craftsmanship. While the brand remains relatively under the radar, especially outside of France, it’s clear that Pequignet has carved out a space that feels both timeless and refreshingly original. This latest Concorde model isn’t just a celebration of 50 years of watchmaking—it’s a declaration of intent for the decades to come. If you value exceptional finishing, practical design, and an in-house movement with genuine provenance, this is a watch—and a brand—worthy of your attention. In a crowded market where many timepieces feel interchangeable, the Concorde Titanium stands apart. It’s not just well-made; it’s well-considered. And in my view, that makes all the difference.
