Puthia Temple Town | Rangan Datta

Near Rajshahi, Bangladesh

Also see: Tour of Rasjhahi region, Bangladesh

Temples with towering spires and intricate terracotta ornamentation along with colonial mansions are enough to turn the sleepy hamlet of Puthia into a major tourist spot of Bangladesh. Sadly, the amazing temple town located in the Rajshahi district of Bangladesh is rarely visited by tourists.

History of Puthia zamindars: According to legend, a person named Nilambar of Puthia received the ‘raja’ title from the Mughal emperor Jehangir (reign: 1605-27), making it one of the oldest zamindar estates of Bengal.

Later, in 1744, the estate was divided among four brothers. The zamindari flourished and towering temples and palatial mansions were constructed all over Puthia, turning the sleepy hamlet into a temple town.

In 1950, during the East Pakistan regime, the zamindari system was abolished but the temples and mansions still stand and the sleepy hamlet has all the basic ingredients of a tourist spot.

Puthia as a tourist spot: Despite the presence of basic ingredients of a tourist spot, it lacks the basic tourist infrastructure. There are no hotels in the town. The town also lacks good restaurants or places to eat. Even proper toilets are hard to get. No wonder Puthia attracts only a handful of tourists and the majority of them are domestic.

Puthia – moat and pond: During the zamindari period Puthia was surrounded by a moat. The majority of the moat still remains and is known as Shiv Sagar (Google map location). The rectangular island formed by the moat houses a large rectangular pond at its centre. It is known as Shyam Sagar (Google map location). The rajbari and the temples are all located on the artificial island and around the central pond of Shyam Sagar. Today, bridges across the moat (Shiv Sagar) provides easy access to the rajbari and temples of Puthia.

Boro Shiv Mandir (Google map location) (Also known as: Pancha Ratna Shiv Temple and Bhubaneshwar Shiva Temple): The temple stands on the northern edge of the Puthia citadel and next to the moat called Shiva Sagar.

Reflections of the towering temple and the adjoining temple welcomes visitors to Putiha.

The temple dates back to 1823 and was constructed by the queen of Puthia, Bhubanmayee Debi. The temple follows the pancha ratna (five pinnacle) plan but each of the five pinnacles is a composite of several smaller pinnacles.

Each of the corner pinnacles is composed of 17 smaller pinnacles, while the larger central pinnacle has a total of 108 sub-pinnacles.

Located on a high plinth, the temple is approachable by a long flight of stairs from the south.

The northern side also has a pair of curved stairs descending to the ghat of Shiv Sagar. The interior houses a shilling.

Rath Mandir (Google map location) (Also known as: Jaganath Mandir): This is located next to the Boro Shiv Mandir and is dedicated to Jagannath. This is a two-storeyed temple also constructed by Bhubanmayee Debi and stands on an octagonal base. Although dwarfed by the nearby towering Boro Shiv Mandir, this temple has its share of elegance and grace.

Dol Mancha (Google map location): Further south lies the Dol Mandir. Built in 1778 by Bhubanendra Narayan, the four-storeyed structure towers above the congested bazaar area of Puthia. Each storey reduces proportionally. The first stage has seven arches on each side, the second stage has five arches on each side and the third stage has three arches on each side. The topmost stage has a single arch on each side and is topped with a dome.

Puthia Rajbari (Google map location): Just south of the Dol Mandir is a large field used for sporting activities. On the far end of the field is the Puthia Rajbari, locally known as the Panch Ani Palace. The place came up in 1895. It was an initiative of Puthia queen Hemanta Kumari Devi and was built in honour of her mother-in-law Sarat Sundari Devi.

The two-storey colonial-style mansion following the Indo-Saracenic revival architecture style.

Fluted Corinthian columns support the front face of the building, which also comes in with a central ornamental pediment.

Presently, the mansion houses a small museum narrating the rich history of Puthia and beyond.

Boro Gobindo Mandir (Google map location) (Also known as Pancharatna Gobinda Mandir): Located inside the Puthia Rajbari complex, the Boro Gobindo Temple has some of the finest terracotta ornamentation in the whole of Bangladesh. The temple is built in the the typical pancha ratna (five pinnacle) style.

Terracotta ornamentation of Boro Gobindo Mandir

The 18th-century temple was built by one of the queens of the Puthia zamindar family. The temple has a triple-arched entrance and has elaborate terracotta ornamentation on all four sides. It has an intricate terracotta façade with plaques depicting scenes from Ramayana and other Hindu mythology along with scenes from day-to-day life. It is considered one of the finest terracotta temples in the whole of Bangladesh.

Rani Mahal, Rani Ghat and Choto Annik Mandir

Rani Mahal (Google map location) (Also known as Rani Hemanta Kumari Residence): Located behind the Puthia Rajbari complex lies the private residence of Hemanta Kumari Devi, the lady who built the Puthia Rajbari. It is a bungalow-style single-storied building with ornate pillars. It overlooks the moat of Shiv Sagar.

Rani Ghat (Google map location): Adjoining to the Rani Mahal, the Rani Ghat is a private bathing ghat for the queens of Puthia Rajbari. It is an enclosed space in Shiv Sagar, providing privacy to the queens.

Choto Annik Mandir (Google map location): Behind the Puthia Rajbari stands a small temple following the do chala style of architecture. Known as the Choto Anhik Mandir, it has beautiful ornamentation on the front facade. Sadly, a metal railing prevents access to the terracotta details and makes photography difficult.

Choto Shiv Mandir (Google map location): Located on the south-east corner of Shiv Sagar lies a tiny Shiva temple. It follows the char-chala style of architecture and has elaborate terracotta ornamentation on the front facade.

Char Ani Rajbari (Google map location): The zamindari was divided in 1744. The recipients were identified by the amount of share they received.

The largest shareholder was called panch ani (5 annas out of 16 annas) and they went on to build the Puthia Rajbari (also called Panch Ani Rajbari).

Another shareholder, who received four ani share went on to build another Rajbari. This was known as the Char Ani Palace or Rajbari.

Today, it stands on the south-west corner of a large pond named Shyam Sagar. Sadly, unlike its larger counterpart, this is presently in complete ruins. A passage through a gateway leads to the ruined mansion, whose roofs have long collapsed. A handful of pillars and arches are all that remains of the huge mansion.

Boro Annik Mandir, Choto Gobindo Mandir and Gopal Mandir (Google map location): Little north of the ruined Char Ani Palace and on the western bank of Shyam Sagar is a temple complex housing Gopal Mandir, Choto Govindo Mandir and Boro Annik Temple.

The temple complex is beautiful complex complete with lawns dotted with flower beds.

Gopal Mandir: The two-storeyed Gopal Mandir lies right of the entrance. Unlike the other two temples of the complex the Gopal Mandir is devoid of any terracotta ornamentation.

Choto Gobindo Mandir (Also known as Char Chala Gobindo Mandir): This stands next to the Gopal Mandir. The temple was built in char-chala style and has a triple-arched entrance. It is a terracotta masterpiece. Sadly, nothing much is known about the history of the temple. It was probably constructed in the late 19^th century.

Boro Annik Mandir: The third and final temple of the complex is the Boro Annik Temple.

It is not only a terracotta wonder but has a unique architectural style, which his not found anywhere in undivided Bengal.

It follows a mixed style of architecture. The central part is do chala and is flanked with char chala structures on both sides.

The two char chala segments, each have a single-arched entrance and the central do chala portions have a triple-arched entrance.

The entire front façade is decorated with intricate terracotta ornamentation. The panels depicts tales from mythologies, epics and even day to day life.

Necessary Informations:

• Puthia has no hotels
• Puthia is best explored in a day trip from Rajshahi (29 km)
• There is hardly any public transport, so a hired car is preffered
• Hotels in Rajshahi can arrange for cars
• Half a day trip is required to explore Rajshahai
• Rajshahi has only basic eateries. So it is best to carry some food
• Foodies can try out the spicy jhal muri, which is served with mashed vegetable fitters
• Puthia Rajbari has a ticket. 200 taka for SAARC national
• Other places don’t have any entry fee

Note:

• The Heritage Tour of Rajshahi Region of Bangladesh was a exploration tour with Immersive Trails

For more blog posts of Rajshahi Region , click on the buttom below

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