Wines of the Jura: Know your Clavelin from your Comté, Morteau from Macvin
“…this tiny region in the northeast of France remains one of the world’s most fascinating and rapidly developing.”
Nicholas Greinacher – vinous.com
Tucked between Burgundy and Switzerland, running along the foothills of the Jura mountains, this small but fiercely distinctive region feels wonderfully self-contained. Ten years ago, when we were first rootling around the town of Arbois for the best wines and wineries, one half-expected Getafix the druid to appear from a bush.
With just under 2,000 hectares of vines (similar in size to Sancerre), Jura’s wine production is tiny — but its personality is big. Despite its relatively small size, the Jura is home to 5 grape varieties, 6 AOCs and 200 estates of various sizes. There are four geographic AOCs – Arbois, L’Etoile, Côtes du Jura and Château-Chalon (exclusively Vin Jaune) – and two product AOCs – Crémant du Jura and Macvin du Jura (a blend of grape juice and spirit, like a Pineau).
“It’s France’s smallest wine region, but Jura is also one of the nation’s most fascinating, home to unusual artisanal wines, long-standing traditions and modern innovations.”
Rupert Joy – Decanter magazine.
While tradition remains strong, a new wave of growers has brought renewed energy to the region. Organic and biodynamic viticulture is common, and minimal-intervention winemaking has flourished here. The Jura has become a reference point for sommeliers and consumers seeking wines of authenticity and edge.
The Grapes of the Jura:
Two-thirds of Jura’s wine production is white. Chardonnay plays a central role here, often more taut and mineral than its Burgundian cousin, but it is Savagnin, the grape behind Vin Jaune, that defines the region. Vin Jaune is aged for aged for 6 years and 3 months under a veil of yeast (a voile, similar to flor in Sherry), before release and served in its unique 62cl bottle called a clavelin developing intense aromas of walnut, curry spice, green apple and dried citrus peel. It is traditionally released on the third Thursday of February following its sixth year of ageing, celebrated with the annual Percée du Vin Jaune festival
Other styles of white Jura wines include:
• Côtes du Jura Blanc – fresh, mineral-driven Chardonnay and Savagnin blends
• Savagnin ouillé – topped-up (non-oxidative) Savagnin showing citrus and alpine herbs
• Vin de Paille – a luscious, sweet wine made from grapes dried on straw mats
Red wines account for roughly a third of production and are led by:
• Poulsard (aka Ploussard) – pale, softly spiced.
• Trousseau – deeper coloured, wild-fruited and peppery
• Pinot Noir – lighter and more lifted than Burgundy
• Crémant du Jura, made in the traditional method, is increasingly popular — brisk, fine-boned and exceptional value.
Matching Food to Wines of the Jura:
As one might expect, the wines are at home with the dishes of the Jura – often mountain cooking at its most comforting. Reds complement Morteau sausages, whites sing alongside Comté cheese, none more so than Vin Jaune. The Jura is proud of its heritage (especially its most famous son, Louis Pasteur) and has heroically defended its wine culture – in 1973 its winemakers descended on Strasbourg armed with clavelins and 15kg Comté cheeses to see off the threat of the EU harmonising bottle sizes!
Local classics include Comté, Morbier and Mont d’Or cheeses. Cream, mushrooms, poultry and cured meats feature heavily. Freshwater fish from local rivers and lakes are also common.
A Classic Recipe from the Jura: Poulet au Vin Jaune et aux Morilles
Perhaps the region’s most iconic dish, this creamy chicken stew showcases Vin Jaune at its finest.
Ingredients (Serves 4–6);
- 1 whole chicken, jointed
- 40g dried morel mushrooms
- 2 shallots, finely chopped
- 30g butter
- 150ml Vin Jaune (or Savagnin)
- 300ml chicken stock
- 200ml double cream
- Salt and white pepper
Method:
- Soak the morels in warm water for 30 minutes, then drain (reserving the soaking liquid and straining it through muslin).
- Season the chicken pieces and brown gently in butter. Remove and set aside.
- Soften the shallots in the same pan without colouring.
- Return the chicken, add Vin Jaune and allow to reduce slightly.
- Add stock and a splash of the strained mushroom liquor. Simmer gently for 30–40 minutes.
- Stir in the cream and morels, then cook for a further 10 minutes until the sauce thickens.
Serve with rice or buttery potatoes — and, of course, a glass of Vin Jaune or Savagnin alongside.
Jura Mouton-Couchon!
