Charlie Holland at 67 Pall Mall today
It’s like a new Batman flick or the soon-to-be-released Mission: Impossible launch. Anything or anyone top-notch returning after a lengthy gap creates tension, anticipation and excitement. Charlie Holland’s sequel winemaking gig after leaving his last employ at Gusbourne, where, in my opinion, everything he touched turned to gold, is a white-knuckle moment. And while my Hollywood references might seem tenuous, Charlie is now working with Californian wine royalty in the form of the Jackson family, so I am not stretching the truth too far. I know firsthand how this visionary family has transformed the fortunes of a trio of terrific Australian operations: Hickinbotham, Yangarra, and, most notably, Giant Steps, which is my Winery of the Year in the 100 Best Australian Wines 2025. They have revitalised Chateau Lassègue in Saint-Émilion, bringing it back to performing well, and their Californian portfolio, which is diverse, to say the least, is sublime. Therefore, it is all the more exciting that they accurately identified one of our homegrown superstars and provided him with the tools to create two separate dream portfolios of English wines. While the ‘South Coast’ sparklers will come on stream before too long, the Essex-based still wines are on their way, with a debut launch this month. Marbury, meaning ‘Stronghold by the Sea’, has just finished a two-year planting exercise. Having acquired 67 acres in the southern part of the Crouch Valley, 30 acres were planted with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay last year, and 30 more were completed this year. These will come online in a couple of years. This month’s debut wine was sourced from a couple of well-known and justifiably famous sites, and Charlie leaned on expert Duncan McNeill to ensure he gathered the best raw materials possible. In future, there will be 500 dozen Pinot Noir and 500 dozen Chardonnay, and then, no doubt, single vineyard cuvées will emerge when they are of sufficient quality. In time, Charlie and the Jackson Family will have a collection of Pinots and Chardonnays from Essex and a sparkling wine portfolio from the finest spots in the South. I am assured that they will be fairly priced and of the highest quality imaginable. I would not bet against this happening sooner than anyone could imagine possible.
2023 Marbury, Crouch Valley Chardonnay (approx. £38.00, www.stswithinswineshippers.com and others to follow).
Perhaps Batman and Ethan Hunt were the wrong reference points for this wine. Nothing is CGI, and nothing is unbelievable, let alone impossible. I love Cary Grant and David Niven alike, and it is the consummate matinee idol that this wine evokes. 2023 Marbury is a stunningly credible, naturally calm and carefully considered Chardonnay with a 12.5% alcohol frame and a mere 15% new oak among the carpentry to engender the faintest hint of sophistication and spice. Texturally, this is a stunner – it is lithe, silky, teasing and mouth-watering, with a touch more magnetism and sexiness than I expected for its tender age. It gallivants into our top echelons of Chardonnay in the blink of an eye, and yet it is not trying too hard or yearning to be the centre of attention. There is confidence and composure here that comes with profound experience and tip-top ingredients. Only 2000 bottles were made, and I can imagine a couple of elite on-trade groups doing their utmost to snap these up. Before they do, grab a ticket for the premiere of this delicious performance. It’s a five-star performance from me.
