Wine Review: Unfortified Sherry – The Wine Diplomats
Have you tried unfortified Sherry before? Let’s taste what they’re like.
Unfortified Sherry?
Vino de Pasto, or unfortified Sherry (Jerez), used to be common in the Jerez region, but was often mostly for local consumption. It was even more expensive than fortified Sherry historically.
Nowadays Sherry is known for being fortified and undergoing aging under velo de flor, which I explained in more detail in a previous post about a Chilean velo de flor wine. This biological layer of yeast, called velo de flor, imparts unique flavors, which makes it unique.
However, Vino de Pasto Sherry is starting to become trendy again. The DO Jerez regulations have even changed to allow unfortified Sherry in 2021 so that unfortified velo de flor wines from this region can be labeled Fino or Manzanilla, like fortified Sherry.
I found a few unfortified velo de flor whites from the region to taste. Normally, Sherry is dominated by Palomino Fino, so two of them feature this variety. The other is made from Pedro Ximenez, which is more associated with sweet wines that undergo oxidative aging.
All three wines come from Equipo Navazos, who formed in 2005. They specialize in small production, less traditional Sherry although you could say they are super traditional using techniques that were more common 200+ years ago. All three wines came before the DO Jerez changes regarding labeling unfortified Sherry.
Tasting Notes
2017 Navazos Ovni Pedro Ximenez Montilla-Moriles (not pictured)
Natural wine. Aged partly in stainless steel and partly in cement tinajas with velo de flor. Mostly Pedro Ximenez, but up to 10% of other grapes were allowed. Bready, yeasty nose, almonds. Palate is fruity, round, low acid with a touch of spice. Touch of oxidation, bruised apple. Second day, some floral notes on the nose but the palate seems to be fading. Overall, this dry PX lacks too much acidity for me. 88
2015 Equipo Navazos Ovni Palomino Montilla Moriles
Has 6 months velo de flor aging, which is less than some of their other dry, unfortified whites that feature more velo de flor. Nonetheless, the nose still takes you to Fino Sherry. There’s an oxidative, savory, earthy, nutty fermented tea aspect to this, but there’s also some apple fruit that comes out with more air. It’s low in alcohol. Low in acid. Medium-light body and feel. I don’t have a lot of experience with sherry, but obviously there’s lower alcohol here and it’s milder in velo de flor, oxidative aspects, so blind tasting, I would say it tastes like an older white, and it is almost 10 years old, but the screw-top probably kept it fresher. I like this with earthy, savory Chinese food. If you like sherry or aged whites, but want it in a lighter package, then this is for you. I’d want more acidity in most cases, but it depends on the pairing. This is not over the top sherry either, so it’s a good gateway wine into Sherry. 88
Equipo Navazos La Bota de Florpower No. 77 MMXV Jerez
This is from the 2015 vintage taken from Sanlúcar de Barrameda, making more like an unfortified Manzanilla sherry essentially, which used to be more common in Jerez. 20 months under velo de flor (8 in 600l barrels and 12 in stainless steel) although regular sherry goes 2 years or more under flor. This is darker than their OVNI Palomino which only has 6 months velo de flor. It’s less oxidative and a bit higher in acid though (but still low-ish acidity). Both are low alcohol. This has less fruit. This has a floral component on the nose the other doesn’t have. This has more body and has a rounder, creamier feel. Medicinal. Some obvious sherry notes, but I wouldn’t say the 14 months extra of velo de flor has made that much more pungent than the OVNI. I like this better than the OVNI more for the feel and less oxidation, but I’m still not an expert on Sherry. However, it seems sherry lovers find these unfortified velo de flor wines too simple. I like both of them with food. However, it’s still not going to be for everybody, and it’s generally not something I’d necessarily seek out to drink on its own because of the lower acidity overall and lack of complexity. Palomino is neutral grape overall, so it relies on the winemaking for its profile like with regular fortified sherry. It’s different though, and as I said, it works well with earthy Chinese food or sushi. 89
Conclusion
If you like Sherry but want a low-alcohol, lighter version, unfortified Sherry is one way to go. They’re also more food friendly because of the lower alcohol. I’m not a Sherry lover, but I can appreciate the unique flavors and like the pairing with umami based Asian foods.
