This is probably the weirdest whisky I have tasted. And I don’t mean that in a bad way – there is just a lot going on with this whisky that is pretty unusual.
First of all, it’s a whisky that’s been blended and bottled in Japan. But it’s not technically a Japanese whisky, because it includes whisky from other parts of the world. Until fairly recently, Japan’s regulations allowed whisky producers to add whiskies from other countries into what could be called a “Japanese Blended Whisky”. Regulations in Japan have changed, however, and it’s now the case that whisky which includes some foreign spirit can no longer be labelled a “Japanese Whisky”, even if it was bottled in Japan.
There are still a few whiskies coming out of Japan that have been blended with whisky from elsewhere in the world, but they are now labelled more clearly as “Japanese-inspired,” or as a “whisky with Japanese influence,” or simply a “world whisky,” rather than a “Japanese Blended Whisky.” Umiki’s label states, for example, that it is an “ocean fused whisky” (more on that below). While the label on the bottle is a little vague, their website clearly states that the malt whisky components of Umiki come from Japan, and the grain whisky components come from other whisky-producing countries (though exactly which countries these are is not specified).
The second unusual feature of this whisky is that, after the malt and grain whiskies are vatted together, the blend is finished in Japanese pine barrels. Pine is an odd choice for whisky. Regulations in Scotland are a little stricter than in some other parts of the world, requiring that whisky be matured only in oak barrels. In other countries (including Ireland, and clearly Japan), regulations merely specify that wooden barrels need to be used for maturation. This leaves some room for experimentation, although oak is ordinarily the preferred choice for whisky making regardless. This is partly because it is naturally watertight due to tyloses that block its pores. But oak is also known to impart desirable flavours like vanilla, spice, and tannins. Pine, on the other hand, is far more porous, and typically contains a high amount of resin, which can impart sharp, herbal, medicinal or bitter notes if not carefully managed. Because of this, pine is not typically used in whisky making even when oak is not legally the only option.
In the case of Umiki, pine was used only for a short finishing period, so any extra liquid loss through the porous wood would have been minimal. And here, the unique characteristics of pine were deliberately sought out to impart a distinctive and novel character. Pine also grows significantly faster than oak, so while its use is experimental, it also adds an eco-conscious angle to the marketing of this whisky.
I was pretty interested in the impact the use of pine would have on the final flavour of the whisky. I remember once making grilled cheese sandwiches over a campfire that happened to include dry pine needles in the kindling. We only realised this afterward when we noticed that they’d lent a distinctive piney note to the sandwiches, which I actually kind of enjoyed!
The third oddity of this whisky is the fact that it incorporates some desalinated and purified water from the Pacific Ocean. This water is not used during the distillation or fermentation process. Instead, it’s been added to proof down the whisky. When whisky comes out of the cask it’s often somewhere between 55% to 65% ABV (depending on barrel entry strength and aging conditions). Unless a whisky is bottled at cask strength, water is then added to bring the whisky down to the desired bottling strength. In Umiki’s case, this desalinated and purified ocean water is used to dilute the whisky down to 46% ABV. Using water from the ocean is meant to be another attempt to promote an environmentally minded message.
The name “Umiki” is a combination of “umi” (Japanese for ocean) and “ki” (Japanese for tree), referencing both the water and the pine finishing that make this whisky so interesting. I have not heard of any other whisky that’s been matured or finished in pine barrels – although apparently Norway’s Myken Distillery uses desalinated sea water in its production (and has done so since 2014).
Apart from the use of pine barrels, I haven’t been able to find any other information about the other types of casks used for maturation. Umiki is non-chill filtered, has no-age statement, and is bottled at 46% ABV. It also seems to have won a number of awards all over the world. I can find a bottle in my area for around $56 (which is roughly the same price as a bottle of Balblair 12).
Umiki – Review
Colour: Auburn.
On the nose: Fresh pine needles and wood shavings. Slightly resinous, and almost minty. There are some fruity notes, kiwi and papaya in particular. It settles into creamy vanilla ice cream served with apple crumble. A few fresher citrus notes make an appearance. Lemon zest, a hint of chamomile and honey.
In the mouth: An initial burst of honeyed sweetness. Fresh cherries. Coconut. That sweetness quickly gives way to a prickle of white pepper and cinnamon. There are buttery notes, followed by a slight bitterness – something like pine resin or papaya seeds. Perhaps the faintest suggestion of salt.
Conclusion:
Overall, Umiki strikes a pleasing balance between novelty and drinkability. I personally quite enjoyed it. Given all its oddities, it felt a little bit like an interesting adventure in a glass, and definitely worth trying for anyone curious about experimental whisky styles. It’s not amazing, exactly, but it’s definitely decent. Given this, it likely won’t replace your go-to dram, but I think it could serve as something of a memorable detour.
