I once wrote down a quote (I can’t remember who it was by) that went something along the lines of: “Sex is like Shakespeare: even when it’s bad, it’s still a damn sight better than the alternative.” The same is probably true of food in Rome: even if you’re in an over-priced pizza joint that’s equidistant from the Vatican, Colosseum and Spanish Steps, it’s still not going to be that bad. And yet, like everything, there are degrees:
Editor’s note: this guide was last updated in October 2026, but many of these listings are based on restaurant and bar visits on multiple trips to Rome over the past decade. While I’ve done my best to make sure all information is as current as possible, please check opening hours and menus with the venues themselves.
Planning your trip to Rome
Before you can start hunting for the perfect carbonara, you’re going to need to get to Rome. Here are a few trip essentials to start:
- Getting to Rome: Most visitors fly into Fiumicino (FCO), about 35 km from the centre, where the Leonardo Express train runs into Termini station. Delta, American Airlines, United and ITA Airways all fly there direct from the US. From the UK, British Airways, easyJet and Ryanair fly from London, and from Amsterdam you can fly with KLM or ITA. Compare fares on Expedia, and compare trains, coaches and onward journeys on Omio.
- Getting around: Central Rome is best explored on foot, with the metro, buses and trams for longer hops (see ATAC for routes and tickets). You don’t need a car in the city, but if you’re planning a day trip you can rent one.
- Where to stay: The places in this guide are all in central Rome, so a base nearby keeps most of them within walking distance. See Booking.com for options.
- Tours and experiences: Browse Rome tours on Viator, or head straight for the food. I loved the Twilight Trastevere Food Tour by Eating Europe, a 3-4 hour evening walk with half a dozen tastings, plus plenty of wine and stories. But you’ll find more options on Viator’s Rome food tours page and GetYourGuide.
- Further reading: Planning a trip to Italy? Check out my guides to Lucca (Tuscany), Salento (Puglia), Ortigia (Sicily), Northern Sardinia and Lake Como.
15 of the Best Restaurants and Bars in Rome
From wine bars and aperitivo to full-blown evening meals, these Rome restaurants are all close to the city’s major attractions: including the Colosseum, Vatican, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon and Spanish Steps. Plus, there are tips for two of my favourite Rome neighbourhoods: Trastevere and Testaccio.
Divin Ostilia, Colosseum
Possibly my favourite find in the Colosseum area was Divin Ostilia: a tiny wine bar that sells all sorts of Italian wines by the glass (including an excellent Amarone della Valpolicella) and even more by the bottle. In fact, you can even buy them to take home with you. The food is simple but tasty: between us, we tried the Melanzane di Parmigiana, spaghetti all’Amatriciana, Caprese salad, tuna tartare and friarelli. All were good, but the wines were even better.
Me & my Amarone… Divin Ostilia
Li Rioni, Colosseum
For ultra-thin Roman-style pizza near the Colosseum, head to Li Rioni. As we discovered on our first night in Rome a few years ago, after a delayed flight and an apartment check-in process that took an hour, Li Rioni’s pizza oven is fired up till nearly midnight. Thanks goodness.
Propaganda, Colosseum
If you’re looking for dinner and cocktails in the Celio area, head to Propaganda. It has a hipster vibe that you don’t get nearly as much in Rome as you do in Amsterdam, so it feels modern more than traditional. Bear in mind, though, that the Italians like their cocktails bitter: Aperol, Campari, Martini Rosso and assorted bitters are the order of the aperitivo time of the day. Those with a sweet tooth: you have been warned.
La Zanzara, Vatican
You can’t come to Italy without indulging in aperitivo, and at drinks o’clock near the Vatican your best bet is to head to La Zanzara. Get your Aperol Spritz on, then expect a raft of little snacks to follow. I’ve not eaten dinner there, but La Zanzara was one of my favourite aperitivo experiences in Rome. Probably because, had we stayed, we’d have been too full from all the snacks to eat dinner anyway!
Aperitivo hour at La Zanzara
Il Sorpasso, Vatican
Speaking of dinner, afterwards we moved onto Il Sorpasso: a restaurant specialising in high-quality cured hams and Italian cheeses. You can get your pasta at Il Sorpasso too, but the menu is a little more creative – so it’s worth branching out into beef tartare or one of their salads.
Il Bacaro, Pantheon
I didn’t spend a lot of time around the Pantheon, but I did find one hidden gem: we stumbled across Il Bacaro while wandering through some backstreets looking for replacement flip-flops (long story). It’s half-covered in a canopy of green, leafy, trailing plants that form a soothingly cool natural shade right above the restaurant’s outdoor tables. The prices were reasonable for the area, and the house wine by the glass was delicious. I loved Il Bacaro’s smoked beef carpaccio. I liked the mosquitoes rather less.
Leafy shade outside Il Bacaro
Ginger, Spanish Steps
On the street running between Via del Corso (shopper’s heaven; claustrophobe’s nightmare) and the Spanish Steps, Ginger is a popular, bustling lunch spot. They don’t take reservations; you simply turn up, give your name to the person at the front desk, and wait for your table. Efficient, fresh and simple, Ginger has plenty of lunch options – including this hearty porchetta sandwich. Now with three locations.
Porchetta sandwich at Ginger
Al Simeto, Villa Borghese
After a morning’s culture, taking in the sculptures at the stunning Galleria Borghese, you’ll be in need of sustenance. We found exactly what we were looking for at Al Simeto: a local haunt (the staff spoke almost no English) serving up simple antipasti, excellent pasta (we tried the spaghetti all’Amatriciana and the ricotta and sage ravioli) and lovely wines. We even managed to get our hands on a fabulous bottle of Franciacorta: Italy’s answer to Champagne (just don’t let anyone fob you off with Prosecco instead).
Pasta perfection at Al Simeto
Open Baladin, Campo de’ Fiori
While I’m mainly a wine drinker, a cold beer on a hot day is a thing of beauty. For dozens of craft beers on tap, head to Open Baladin – a perfect pick-me-up after shopping at Campo de’ Fiori (a square featuring a market that’s sort of touristy and sort of authentic-feeling at the same time).
Pianostrada, Trastevere
For dinner just over the river, you can’t do better than the elegant courtyard at Pianostrada – covered in twinkling fairy lights and ferny foliage. The chefs there are known for their focaccia, which comes laden with all sorts of goodies: from figs and prosciutto to mortadella and rucola. Try also Pianostrada’s “Mediterranean sushi” for an interesting fusion of Japanese and Italian flavours.
Not-your-average foccaccia at Pianostrada
L’Elementare, Trastevere
Also in Trastevere, you’ll find L’Elementare – a Roman-style pizza joint with a twist. Yes, you can get your Margherita and your Capricciosa, but you can also get some interesting specials. I loved the spicy Datte Foco with ‘nduja sauce, ventricina salami and provolone. While my table-mates preferred the Parmigiana de Noantri with aubergine, basil and stracciatella.
Pizza speciali at L’Elementare
Osteria der Belli, Trastevere
Also worth popping into is Osteria der Belli, close to the touristy Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere. Their fish is excellent – including the sea bass carpaccio, octopus and spaghetti alle vongole – as well as their ravioli. All of which were washed down with local Lazio wine. Saluti!
Osteria der Belli
Trattoria da Enzo al 29, Trastevere
A small Trastevere trattoria named after its address on Via dei Vascellari. Order the carciofi alla giudia, a whole artichoke fried until the outer leaves turn crisp and the heart stays tender. It’s the dish to come for, so go when artichokes are in season, as they leave the menu in summer. Trattoria da Enzo is a popular spot, so expect a queue at busy times.
Trattoria da Enzo al 29
Flavio al Velavevodetto, Testaccio
Built into the side of Monte Testaccio, the hill made of broken ancient Roman amphorae, Flavio al Velavevodetto is a good place to work through the Roman pasta classics in one sitting. Carbonara, cacio e pepe and amatriciana are all on the menu, so order a couple and compare.
Ristorante Angelina, Testaccio
Another Monte Testaccio restaurant, Angelina focuses on quinto quarto, the offal cooking that grew out of the old Testaccio slaughterhouse district. Look for coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew) and trippa alla romana (tripe) if you want the full local experience.
Roman cacio e pepe
Planning a trip to Italy? Check out my guides to Lucca (Tuscany), Salento (Puglia), Ortigia (Sicily), Northern Sardinia and Lake Como.
On your travels and looking for inspiration? Take a self-guided walking tour with GPSmyCity to experience the food scene in Rome!
