The benefit of having first moved to Amsterdam as a student, returned as a hopeful 20-something looking to rent an apartment, and finally joined the property ladder is that I’ve lived in almost every Amsterdam neighbourhood at some time or another. And while they’ve changed immeasurably over the past 20 years, their innate character has remained pretty much intact.
This neighbourhood guide aims to walk you through each area of Amsterdam from a local perspective, to help you decide where you want to stay – whether you’re looking for canal-side views, buzzing bars and restaurants, or an industrial-chic feel. That said, Amsterdam is a very compact city – no matter where you stay, the main sights are only a short tram ride (or bike ride) away.
Centrum and Canal Belt
Central Amsterdam is home to attractions like Dam Square, the Anne Frank House and the Red Light District – not to mention the impressive UNESCO World Heritage Canal Belt. But it’s also the part of the city that’s most overrun with tourists and gets extremely busy – especially during the daytime when the cruise ship passengers add to the population. In the evening, though, the canals can be magical: walking over hump-back bridges, lights reflecting in the water, you can slow down and take it all in. As a student, I lived on Westermarkt (very close to the Anne Frank House) but when I moved to Amsterdam permanently I never lived that centrally again. It’s a wonderful place to visit, but it’s not where most locals live – make of that what you will.
Where to stay in central Amsterdam and the Canal Belt
- Pulitzer – the ultimate in canal-side luxury, the Pulitzer is the splash-out hotel option. Rooms come with historic grandeur, and the courtyard garden is blissful.
- The Hoxton – in a canal house on the Herengracht, The Hoxton is casual and elegant in equal measure. Lotti’s restaurant & bar on the ground floor is also a good spot to meet up for a drink or to co-work from.
- Krasnapolsky – right on Dam Square, the Anantara Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky is in the heart of the action. It’s also home to The White Room – one of Amsterdam’s more famous Michelin-starred restaurants.
- Soho House – blast from the past: Soho House used to be part of Amsterdam University, where I took literature courses back in the early 2000s. Now, it’s a private members club that also has rooms and an Italian restaurant.
Where to eat in central Amsterdam and the Canal Belt
- Just east of Centraal Station, you’ll find Amsterdam’s very own Chinatown clustered around the Zeedijk and Nieuwmarkt. There are lots of Asian restaurants I love in that area, but none more so than A-Fusion. Get the Bib Gourmand menu and you can’t go wrong: high-end sushi, steamed oysters, lettuce wraps and more.
- So-called “brown cafés” are a Dutch institution: low lit, historically smoky (not anymore) and serving mostly beer and bar snacks. There are plenty of them around the Canal Belt, including Gollem – tucked down the Raamsteeg.
- Indonesian rijsttafel is a must when in Amsterdam, and one of my favourites comes from Tujuh Maret on the Utrechtsestraat. Going strong for 30 years, they serve a classic range of Indonesian dishes – including some that are properly spicy.
Jordaan
Perhaps the most postcard-worthy neighbourhood in Amsterdam, the Jordaan is a tangle of tiny streets, each brimming with shops and eateries. Once a working-class quarter, it has now been thoroughly gentrified, though it hasn’t lost its village feel. I love the Jordaan – but so do all the Instagram and TikTok influencers! You have been warned.
Where to stay in the Jordaan
- Hotel Mercier – set in a former community centre on Rozenstraat, Hotel Mercier has vintage details throughout (mosaic-tiled bathrooms, handmade tapestries) and an excellent vegan fine-dining restaurant, Bonboon.
- Mr Jordaan Hotel – a budget-friendly boutique option right on the picture-perfect Bloemgracht, spread across two canal houses with exposed brick and retro 60s/70s furniture. No restaurant or bar on site, but you won’t need one given Mr Jordaan Hotel’s neighbourhood.
Where to eat in the Jordaan
- Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat, Tweede Tuindwarsstraat and Tweede Anjeliersdwarsstraat (plus their dwarsstraat neighbours) make up what I call “restaurant street” – packed with good independents. Regulars of mine: La Perla (wood-fired pizza, importing proper buffalo mozzarella since 2009), La Oliva (a Basque pintxos bar) and Rosario (creative modern Mexican).
- Madre – plant-based Mexican and cocktail bar on Westerstraat, so good most people (including my husband) don’t clock it’s fully vegan. Go for the Chef’s Choice sharing menu.
- Fou Fow – one of Amsterdam’s original ramen spots, still my go-to. Rich, porky tonkotsu, equally good tantanmen, always-oozy egg yolks.
De Pijp
Once a working-class quarter, then a scruffy student hood, De Pijp has been gentrified more recently than the Jordaan but it hasn’t lost its youthful vibe. It’s loved by locals and visitors alike for its market (the famous Albert Cuypmarkt), bars and restaurants. But if you’re a light sleeper, be warned: bars can stay noisy until the wee hours.
Where to stay in De Pijp
- Okura – a 23-storey high-rise on the southern tip of De Pijp, home to three Michelin-starred restaurants (including Ciel Bleu, up on the top floor with knockout views). Hotel Okura is a serene, very Japanese take on luxury.
- Pestana – set in De Pijp’s former 19th-century town hall on the banks of the Amstel, the Pestana Amsterdam Riverside comes with elegant, minimalist rooms and water views. Quieter than the neighbourhood outside its doors.
- Sir Albert – boutique hotel Sir Albert is in a converted diamond factory, with art-inspired rooms and IZAKAYA, its lively Japanese restaurant and bar, downstairs.
Where to eat in De Pijp
- De Pijp is the spiritual home of international brunch in Amsterdam. Try Little Collins (Antipodeans responsible for bringing brunch culture to the city, and my long-standing favourite), Eggs Benaddicted (eggs every which way) or Miri Mary (brunch done Indian-style).
- NAZKA – one of my all-time favourite restaurants in Amsterdam: bold, globally-inflected Peruvian food and inspired drinks pairings. The chef’s menu is always worth the splurge.
- Tsunarié – an intimate 10-seat counter restaurant doing kappo-style omakase, the chefs cooking right in front of you.
Oud-West and Westerpark
Quieter and leafier than the Jordaan or De Pijp, Amsterdam West was originally built as working-class housing in the late 19th century, and that unshowy character is still in evidence. Its heart is De Hallen, a former tram depot now packed with restaurants (including the ever-popular Foodhallen food court), a cinema and a library, while nearby Kinkerstraat and the Ten Katemarkt offer everyday shops and a lively market. Further north, Westerpark centres on the old Westergasfabriek gasworks – now a cultural complex of galleries, clubs and terraces. I lived in the Spaarndammerbuurt (just north of the park) for over 10 years and loved every minute.
Where to stay in Amsterdam West
- Morgan & Mees – a nine-room boutique hotel in a converted 1880s building, with a buzzing restaurant and terrace of the same name that’s worth visiting even if you’re not staying.
- Hotel Not Hotel – wonderfully quirky and aptly named: Hotel Not Hotel has rooms hidden behind a bookcase, inside an old tram, or built like a tiny house. A fun, budget-friendly choice if you don’t mind sharing a bathroom.
- SWEETS hotels – 28 former bridge-keepers’ houses across the city (several in West) turned into standalone one-bedroom suites, each with canal views. A night spent here could only happen in Amsterdam!
Where to eat in Amsterdam West
- Turkish and Middle Eastern food is one of Oud-West’s strengths. I love Beyrouth (a Lebanese institution since 1990), De Aardige Pers (unfussy, generous grilled meats), Night Kitchen (cosy, cocktail-forward) and Belly Pepper (Turkish brunch).
- nNea – Neapolitan-style pizza with a 50-hour dough that’s basically a warm pillow. One of my favourite pizzerias in the city.
Oud-Zuid and Museum District
The ritziest part of town, Oud-Zuid is home to the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum and the Concertgebouw, plus the leafy expanse of Vondelpark and the designer shops of PC Hooftstraat. It’s quieter and more residential than the centre – a neighbourhood best suited to culture vultures and those with deep pockets.
Where to stay in Amsterdam Zuid
- The College Hotel – set in a converted 19th-century school, and staffed by hospitality students in training. High tea in the College Hotel lounge is good value, too.
- Park Plaza Vondelpark – a lovely location right by the Vondelpark, the Park Plaza is also home to Italian restaurant TOZI downstairs, serving excellent food (the tonnarelli cacio e pepe is a highlight).
- Mandarin Oriental Conservatorium – one of Amsterdam’s fanciest hotels, the Conservatorium is in a converted bank building (fittingly). Yotam Ottolenghi opened his first Dutch restaurant here in 2026, with veg-led sharing plates in a striking glass atrium.
Where to eat in Amsterdam Zuid
- Wils – Michelin-starred, and for good reason: everything’s cooked over wood fire, charcoal or burning embers, with real technical flair.
- Yuan’s Hot Pot – Chengdu-style hotpot, wonderfully authentic and great for sharing with a group. Spice fiends like me will love it!
- HORTA – a newer Spanish restaurant in the Zuidas from the team behind NAZKA, doing excellent Valencian paella and Catalan sharing dishes.
Plantage and Oost
I love the Plantage area around Artis Zoo and the Hortus Botanicus for its stately architecture and quiet, tree-lined streets. But the rest of Oost has plenty to offer too: multicultural markets, diverse restaurants, creative wine bars and plenty of parks to walk off all the calories afterwards. I now live just east of the Amstel river, so I make full use of all that Oost has to offer.
Where to stay in Amsterdam Oost
- InterContinental Amstel Amsterdam – Amsterdam’s grande dame, right on the river since 1867. More commonly known as the Amstel Hotel, it has an elegant afternoon tea and one of the best pools in the city.
- Pillows Maurits at the Park – a beautifully restored 1908 building overlooking Oosterpark, the rather lengthily named Pillows Grand Boutique Hotel Maurits at the Park is also home to Fitz’s – a gorgeous 1920s-style cocktail bar.
- The Social Hub – good value hotel on the Wibautstraat, the Social Hub Amsterdam City has excellent co-working spaces if you need to get some work done between sightseeing.
- Hotel Casa – where my parents always stay when they come to visit: Hotel Casa is no-frills, well-located near Amstel station, and easy on the wallet. Cool rooftop bar as well.
Where to eat in Amsterdam Oost
- Esra – Turkish-inspired, creative and ever-changing: a set sharing menu with no choices, which means you get whatever the kitchen’s excited about that day.
- Omri – a Mediterranean bistro on the underrated Krugerplein, with a sunny terrace and a short, well-curated wine list.
- I may be biased, but I think Oost has some of the best wine bars in the city: Clos (with a great terrace on Beukenplein), Bottleshop (natural wines on the Wibautstraat), and 4850 (Scandi-inspired with a huge collection) are all worth stopping for a glass.
Noord
When I first moved to Amsterdam, Noord was still covered in warehouses and shipyards (and the odd tower block for student accommodation). Unless you have a car, it’s only reachable by ferry across the IJ, which somehow kept it feeling like a world apart. But that same industrial land is now the city’s edgiest district, anchored by the old NDSM shipyard (now artist studios, flea markets and street art), the A’DAM tower (replete with revolving restaurant and rooftop swing) and the EYE Film Museum. Full of artsy events and craft beer, Noord rewards anyone willing to hop on that ferry (it’s free!).
Where to stay in Amsterdam Noord
- Botel – who wouldn’t want to stay on a boat?!
- Faralda Crane Hotel – or in a converted industrial crane, with just three rooms and panoramic views over the old shipyard.
- Various hostels – the cheaper accommodation in the city tends to be in Noord.
Where to eat in Amsterdam Noord
- Café Modern – one of Noord’s culinary pioneers, serving a seasonally changing surprise menu since 2011.
- Hotel de Goudfazant – despite the name, not a hotel: a huge former garage turned restaurant, with a relaxed vibe and reliably good French-Dutch cooking.
- Mexican food is thriving in Noord: Bacalar and Coba are both upscale examples, with excellent cocktails to match.
Thinking about a visit to Amsterdam? Don’t forget to consult my trip planner, and to download my restaurant and wine guides. Essential reading!
