The delectable biodynamic wines of Shukhrat Khakimov of Alicante, Spain – Wine blog UK

The wines have a theme of vibrant acid and tannic structure upon which the bright characteristics of each grape variety are suspended; sensationally rich and fresh with concentrated flavours.

Of his grape selection process he says, “Learn some history about the zone, see the names of the grape varieties that have a relationship with the place, then it is important to speak with the old viticulturists. They give you a lot of information about local grapes … [then] you just follow the ancient methods.”

The transience of time and appreciation of life are also represented by his young children’s drawings that he uses for labels on the Teo range of wines. The Gaspi range is named after his son, Gaspi, meaning ‘guardian of treasure’.

Local climate in Comtat, Alicante

With an average of 200 sun-days per year, the sub zone of Alicante, Comtat, is becoming increasingly drought prone. Shukhran is reliant on the rains feeding the soils prior to the hot summer in order to create the right biological system. He uses ancient agricultural techniques to maintain terraces, called bancales, that retain water from the rains on the roots of the vines. 

He says that 2021 was not so good. There was a lot of humidity. The grapes were high in acidity and the micro flora and fauna was not so present. ’23 was also a bad year with a drop off in insect life and a loss of yield.

Regarding the vines themselves, Shukhrat says, “First of all we need to focus our attention on grapes that don’t need a lot of water … We don’t irrigate, we don’t have access to water but we have a chance to be at 600m of altitude.” This altitude provides a decent range of high and low temperatures that keep the vines healthy.

Shukhrat describes their work as 80% focussed in the vineyard and 20% in the vinification process. They start with biodynamics as a goal, helping to reduce the human impact on viticulture but he stresses that it is not an absolute, saying, “If you want to arrive at some point, you need to start with something.” The pressures of climate and terrain combined mean that vigilance and adaptability are necessary, making up that 80% of vineyard focus.

In the winemaking process, he uses CO2 to avoid risk of oxidation and preserve the integrity of the flavours. He also prefers ageing in bottles to further reduce the external influences on the wine.

‘Shukhrat Khakimov & Viticultores’ Wines:

Teo range: