Bijapur, the capital of the Adil Shahi dynasty

Exploring the heritage of the capital city of Bijapur Sultanate

The Bijapur Sultanate, ruled by the Adil Shah dynasty, was an early modern kingdom in the western Deccan of South India. Bijapur served as the capital of the sultanate that spanned from 1490 to 1686, during which 9 sultans ruled.

Heritage buildings of Bijapur
Top row (left to right): Ibrahim Rouza, Gol Gumbaz and Jod Gumbaz
Bottom row (left to right): Sanget Mahal, Malik e Maidan and Jahan Begum Tomb

Brief history of Bijapur Sultanate: Before 1490, Bijapur was a Bahamani Kingdom. In 1490, the Bahamani Kingdom disintegrated into 5 independent sultanates, which were known as the Deccan Sultanate. The 5 Deccan Sultanates:

Sangeet Mahal

Cannons of Upali Burz

1. Ahmadnagar (1490 – 1636)
2. Berar (1490 – 1574)
3. Bidar (1492 – 1619)
4. Bijapur (1490 – 1686)
5. Golconda (1512 – 1687)

Sultans of Adil Shahi dynasty:

1. Yusuf Adil Shah (1489 – 1510) (Founder)
2. Ismail Adil Shah (1510 – 34) (Son of Yusuf Adil Shah)
3. Mallu Adil Shah (1534, 6 months) (Son of Ismail Adil Shah)
4. Ibrahim Adil Shah I (1534 – 57) (Brother of Mallu Adil Shah)
5. Ali Adil Shah I (1557 – 1580) (Son of Ali Adil Shah)
6. Ibrahim Adil Shah II (1580 – 1626) (Nephew of Ali Adil Shah)
7. Muhammad Adil Shah (1627 – 55) (Son of Ibrahim Adil Shah II)
8. Ali Adil Shah II (1656 – 72) (Son of Muhammad Adil Shah)
9. Sikandar Adil Shah (1672 – 86) (Son of Ali Adil Shah II)

Heritage of Bijapur: For almost two centuries, Bijapur served as the capital of the Bijapur Sultanate. The 9 sultans of the Adil Shah dynasty turned the city into a fortified citadel complete with tombs, mosques, palaces and darghas. Today, Bijapur is the district headquarters of the district with the same name. It is a busy small town with chaotic traffic. Despite all odds, it still has the Sultanate charm and houses about two dozen protected monuments.

Mosque at Gol Gumbaz complex

Major heritage spots of Bijapur: Autos and tongas (horse carriages) offer a Bijapur city tour covering 8 major spots of Bijapur. They also provide a brief history of Bijapur and narrations of each site. The 8 spots are.

1. Gol Gumbaz
2. Jumma Masjid
3. Taj Bowdi
4. Jod Gumbaz
5. Ibrahim Rauza
6. Malik e Maidan
7. Upali Bruz
8. Bara Kaman

Gol Gumbaz (Google map location): The prime attraction of Bijapur the Gol Gumbaz is the mausoleum of Muhammad Adil Shah the 7^th sultan of Adil Shah dynasty. Built in 1659, it is topped with a 44m (eternal diameter) dome, which is the largest in India and the second largest in the world. The interior houses 5 cenotaphs (the original graves are in the crypt below). They belong to Muhammad Adil Shah, 2 of his wives, a mistress, a daughter and a grandson.

Gol Gumbaz

The square structure is flanked by 7-storied minarets in the four corners. Spiral staircases lead to the terrace, offering a grand bird’s eye view of the city.

From the terrace, passages led to the inner drum of the dome, housing the whispering gallery. The wishperring gallery is known for its amazing acoustics and echoing effects.

The complex also houses several other structures, including the mosque on the western side. The other major building in the complex is the Naqar Khana (drum house). This building once welcomed guests with the beating of drums and the blowing of trumpets, but today it houses the site museum.

Necessary information:

• Timings: 6 am – 6 pm. Museum: 9 am – 4:45pm
• Tickets: ₹25 for Indians, SAARC and BIMSTEC. ₹300 for other foreigners. (Childern below 15 free). Videography (Handycam, for personal use): ₹25. Photography (still): Free
• Photography: Allowed (cameras are not allowed inside the museum but mobile photography is allowed)

Jami Masjid (Google map location): Jami or Jama or Jumma Masjid, the congregational mosque of Bijapur was constructed by Ali Adil Shah, the 5^th sultan of Adil Shah dynasty. The construction of the mosque started in 1576. Over the years, the mosque has undergone several modifications and extensions.

Jami Masjid, Bijapur

The U-shaped mosque has a fountain and reservoir in the middle, which doubles up as a wuzu khana (place for ritual wash). The entrance is through a gate in the east. The northern side also has a gateway. The star attraction of the mosque is the decorative central mihrab. The gilded is decorated in blue, black and gold. It is dominated by Quranic epigraphy.

Necessary information:

• Timings: All day
• Tickets: Non-ticked. Free
• Photography: Allowed

Taj Bawdi (Google map location): A grand stepwell constructed by Ibrahim Adil Shah II, 6^th Sultan of Adil Shah dynasty, in honor of his wife Taj Sultana. It is the largest stepwell in Bijapur and was the primary source of water supply during the Bijapur sultanate period.

Gate of Taj Bawdi

The stepwell complex is approachable through a huge arched gateway on the north. Staircases lead down to the water. Inside, a narrow gallery runs along the four walls, adorned with arches, and connects to spacious rooms. The eastern and western wings double up as guest houses.

Necessary information:

• Timings: All day
• Tickets: Non-ticked. Free
• Photography: Allowed

Jod Gumbaz (Google map location): Jod Gumbaz, or the twin tombs, houses two tombs. The two tombs house the mortal remains of Khan Muhammad and his spiritual advisor, Abdul Razzaq Qadiri.

Jod Gumbaz

Khan Muhammad was a general of the Bijapur Sultanate. He betrayed and helped the Mughals. He was assassinated. His tomb was funded by Aurangzeb.

The tomb of Khan Muhammad is octagonal in shape and also houses the mortal remains of his son Khawas Khan. The tomb of Abdul Razzaq Qadiri has a square base.

To the western side of the twin tomb stands another tomb and next to it stands a small mosque.

The complex also houses a dargha and several other structures. It is an active religious place visited by a large number of devotees.

Necessary information:

• Timings: All day
• Tickets: Non-ticked. Free
• Photography: Allowed

Ibrahim Rouza (Google map location): It is located just outside the medieval fortification of Bijapur but within the present city limits. It houses the mausoleum of Ibrahim Adil Shah II, 6^th sultan of the Adil Shah dynasty.

Ibrahim Rouza

The complex is accessible via a gateway in the north. Constructed in 1626, it houses the mausoleum on the east and a mosque on the west. Both the mosque and the mausoleum stand on an elevated platform with a water cistern in the middle.

Necessary information:

• Timings: 6am – 6pm
• Tickets: ₹25 for Indians and ₹300 for foreigners
• Photography: Allowed

Malik e Maidan (Google map location): Malik e Maidan, literally translates into lord of the fields. It refers to a huge cannon standing atop a bastion on the western wall of the Bijapur Fort. It weighs 55 tons and is made up of pnchaloha, an alloy of 5 metals.

Malik e Maidan

The cannon was cast in 1549 by the Persian engineer Muhammad Bin Husain Rumi for Sultan Burhan Nizam Shah I of Ahmednagar. He presented it to his son-in-law, Sultan Ali Adil Shah.

The cannon played a leading role in the Battle of Talikot (1565), where the Bijapur Sultanate defeated the Vijayanagar Empire.

The cannon has a length of 4.45 m and has a calibre of 700mm. According to legend, a cannonball fired from the cannon can travel up to 500 metres.

The cannon has three inscriptions, out of which two mention the manufacturing details. The third inscription was added by Aurangzeb, after his conquest of Bijapur.

Necessary information:

• Timings: All day
• Tickets: Non-ticked. Free
• Photography: Allowed

Upali Burz (Google map location): Upali Burz is a 24 m tall towering structure located with the Bijapur fortification near the bastion housing the Malik e Maidan cannon.

Upali Burz

A winding stairways leads to the top of the tower housing two cannons. The top provides a great bird’s eye view of the Bijapur town.

Necessary information:

• Timings: All day
• Tickets: Non-ticked. Free
• Photography: Allowed

Bara Kaman (Google map location): Bara Kaman or Ali ka Rauza refers to the unfinished mausoleum of the 8^th sultan of the Bijapur Sultanate, Ali Adil Shah II. He planned to build a mausoleum of unmatched architectural quality.

Bara Kaman

The 12-storied structure was planned to rest on 12 arches divided into 12 columns and rows. However, for unknown reasons, the work on the structure was left incomplete. According to legend, the construction of the mausoleum was stopped because once completed, its shadow would touch the Gol Gumbaz. Today, only the first level of the structure stands.

Necessary information:

• Timings: All day
• Tickets: Non-ticked. Free
• Photography: Allowed

Lesser known heritage spots of Bijapur: Bijapur has something much more to offer than those shown by autowalas and tongawalas. From palaces to royal courts and from mosques to gateways, Bijapur has a long list of heritage sites. All these are non-ticketed monuments and are open throughout the day. Most cases photography is allowed.

Asar Mahal

Asar Mahal (Google map location): This building was constructed in 1646 by Mohammed Adil Shah. It served as a justice hall. On the eastern side lies a large water body. There are several ruined structures in the complex. Presently, the Asar Mahal functions as a mosque.

Gagan Mahal

Gagan Mahal (Google map location): Built by Ali Adil Shah I, the fifth ruler of Adil Shahi dynasty, in 1561. Gagan Mahal has two floors. The ground floor of Gagan Mahal was the place for the audience hall or durbar hall. The second floor of Gagan Mahal was used as a residence for the royal family. The front facade consists of a wide arch flanked by smaller arches. Today, the Gagan Mahal is beautifully restored with a large open space, which serves as a socializing place for locals and tourists.

A few more heritage sites from Bijapur:

1. Sat Mahal (Google map location):
2. Jal Mahal (Google map location):
3. Mehtar Mahal (Google map location):
4. Andu Masjid (Google map location):
5. Fateh Darwaza (Mongoli Base) (Google map location):

Beyond Bijapur: The heritage of Bijapur extends beyond the city limits with several structures on the eastern and western parts of the city.

East of Bijapur:

• Jahan Begum’s Tomb
• Ain-ul-Mulk’s Tomb (Chota Gol Gumbaz)

West of Bijapur:

• Sangeeth Nari Mahal
• Saat Kabar

Jahan Begum’s Tomb (Google map location): Jahan Begum was the wife of Muhammad Adil Shah, 7^th sultan of Adil Shah dynasty. The tomb is unfinished and lies in ruins. The tomb, made of black, polished granite, is enclosed inside an arched pavilion, whose roof has long since collapsed.

Jahan Begum’s Tomb

The four ruined minarets stand at the corner of the enclosure. The entire area is a walled complex with a mosque on the southern side, which the ASI mentions as Mosque No 366 (Google map location). A short distance away is the ruin of Jahan Begum’s Palace (Google map location).

Ain-ul-Mulk’s Tomb (Chota Gol Gumbaz) (Google map location): The tomb houses the mortal remains of Ain-ul-Mulk, a nobleman at the court of Ibrahim I. He rebelled against the sultan and was killed in 1556. The structure stands on a square base and is topped with a hemispherical dome.

Ain-ul-Mulk’s Tomb (Chota Gol Gumbaz)

Each of the four corners features a domed pavilion. The outer walls are decorated with intricate stucco work. The facade has two tiers of three recessed arches on all its sides. The huge complex also houses a mosque and several other ruined structures.

Sangeet Nari Mahal (Google map location ): Located on the eastern fringes of Bijapur, Sangeet Nari Mahal (or simply Sangeet Mahal) was a center for vibrant festivities and social gatherings. It was constructed by the 6^th sultan of the Adil Shah dynasty, Ibrahim Adil Shah II

Sangeet Nari Mahal

Himself an accomplished singer and poet, Ibrahim Adil Shah II, was a major patron of the arts, music, and literature. The Sangeet Mahal is encircled by a high octagonal wall and houses a large tank. It was once the performing stage for singers and dancers.

Saat Kabar (Google map location ): Saat Kabar (Literally meaning 60 graves) is believed to house the 63 graves of the wives of Afzal Khan, a general under Adil Shah II. According to legend, Khan had his wives murdered out of jealousy to prevent them from remarrying after he died in battle with Shivaji.

Saat Kabar

The graves are arranged in a rectangular formation, with a mosque on the western side. To the west of the grave complex lies a small step well.

Necessary information:

• Autos and tomgas offer a tour of the 8 major sites oBijapur. The tour duration will be 3 – 4 hours.
• To cover the lesser-known sites and the sites outside Bijapur a full day (8 – 9 hours) is required
• All sites are open from 6 am – 6 pm. Gol Gumbaz and Ibrahim Rouza are the only two ticketed monuments