
The path does not go upward; it goes down which for some reason is a surprise. I guess I’m so used to paths in the mountains I’m not sure exactly what to do with one that enters a valley. I’m carrying my camera and one wide angle zoom lens hidden under my raincoat. It pours; then unpredictably changes to sunbreaks or a fine drizzle. A few people are exiting as I enter the trail and then all is quiet, all except for the water. The rain is coming down with big drops falling from the trees, syncopating the stillness. And behind that music there is another, also of water, flowing in rivulets down the hill.
You’ll have to imagine, if you haven’t walked this path yourself, a thick rainforest, one in a national reserve halfway between Tofino and Ucluelet on the west coast of Vancouver Island. As I walk into the first part of the trail I stop to read a sign warning about wolves in the area. There have been sightings.
And then the path, barely a hundred yards in and which has been a wide gravel affair, splits into a loop of continuous, kilometer long boardwalk with stairs plunging down into a forest that otherwise would be impassable so dense is the foliage.
Part of me would surely welcome seeing a wolf. They are predators, of course, and have been known to kill small dogs in the area, but we do understand, don’t we, that it’s really their park, not ours and we might be interfering with their routines. And it also makes me wonder about what kind of instinctual predator energies still linger in me. I think perhaps the sign should have read, “Watch for wolves — you’ll be very lucky if indeed you see one so be smart and grateful. If you run into them you might want to pick up your children so they can get a better view and so the wolves also know they belong to you.”
I’m walking now on the wet boardwalk. I’m not as steady as I used to be and I’m alone so I’m careful, measuring what might happen if I slip or trip and fall off into the forest proper. It looks to be the sort of place after a misstep that like a Venus Flytrap might quickly close in around you. Nobody said the journey was going to be safe exactly.
It’s not, perhaps, but it is certainly perfectly beautiful. The air is rich with the earth and its mingling scents of life becoming and dying. Deep clusters of ferns, mosses, mushrooms; leaves fluttering on drenched autumn branches and in the rain some also fluttering down. The boardwalk goes up and down and down again and down further still into a valley among the towering trees, and all the time the sound of water now louder as the rivulets converge. Once in awhile I can actually see the water break out of the ferns growing thickly beside it but mostly the plants are so dense it’s just the sound that announces the little creeks that are passing around me or under the boardwalk itself.
It takes a moment to recognize the design of the path is an intentional thing showing off the layers of the forest’s ecology and its cycles, at least that seems the theme of the markers along the way. It takes a further moment for me to recognize the other metaphor. I’m going down and deeper in. My heart seems to slow. I stop and stand and listen to the implied refrains. My brain stops humming with the usual dross of anticipations, concerns, plans, what if’s, the constant broken record of thinking so that now I’ve forgotten some of how to do that. I’m seeing again, instead and for real; hearing again.
A moment further along I look down once more and I see I’m at the bottom, crossing a deep stream black with tannins from its run across the decaying forest. I look down into that black stream for a long time, merging with it perhaps for an instant or two, and am reminded I’ve come here to encounter in one more way my own soul. To drink from it is to drink the dark tea of my own life and a larger life beyond us all.
After awhile, I am free to move on. The rain is coming down once more and I try to dry my camera as much as possible with my shirt and hide the delicate technology under my coat. The camera, too, is a symbol and the lens, but that’s for a later reflection.
I turn toward the rest of the boardwalk, climbing the stairs uphill past a cedar thought to be over 800 years old. What must living that long be like? How many creatures in that time have rested as I am, nestled next to its massive roots? We come. We go. And the tree lives on, it’s branches in the wind and its roots patiently gathering minerals from the soil for say, 300,000 days.
I climb more stairs and more. The clouds clear away for the late light of the season. My legs are hurting from the climb and I’m sweating. I open my coat to a cool, humid breeze. I walk along more easily, stronger now that the forest has flattened out. Soon I find I’ve completed the loop. I am thinking now that the design of this path with its stairs and boardwalks, its journey down and down to that black stream and then returning to its origin is also the design of a poem. Perhaps one day I’ll write one, I say to myself. In the meantime I say goodbye and trust that the wolves I didn’t see were there hidden all along and heard me whistle to them in the fading light.


