Discovering the Many Faces of Chablis — The Wine Chef



Although the two wineries are located only minutes apart, the wines were noticeably different, reflecting the influence of vineyard location, vintage, farming, and winemaking.

Racine described the 2024 Daniel Dampt as a classic expression of the appellation: crisp, steely, and unoaked. The organically farmed 2023 Isabelle et Denis Pommier, on the other hand, is from clay-rich vineyards and spent longer aging on its lees, giving it added texture and a richer mouthfeel.

The vintages also contributed to their different personalities. The cooler 2024 vintage produced a leaner, brighter wine with higher acidity, while the warmer 2023 vintage yielded a rounder, more generous style. Side by side, the two wines showed that even within Petit Chablis, there’s far more diversity than many people expect.

However, both wines’ bright acidity and mineral backbone paired beautifully with lobster beignets topped with Kaluga caviar and a chèvre tart.

  • Chablis: The Heart of the Region

The next step up the ladder was the 2023 Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis ($28), the appellation that accounts for roughly 65 percent of the region’s production. If most Petit Chablis are bright and easygoing, Chablis offers greater depth, more concentration, and a longer finish, while retaining the region’s classic freshness.

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