A Winery in Lipari That’s Making Some of Sicily’s Most Exciting Wines — The Wine Chef

Tenuta di Castellaro Bianco Pomice 2024 ($31). An expressive blend of 60% Malvasia delle Lipari and 40% Carricante, the heady aromas of apricot, orange peel, and honey lead into a dry, lean, zesty palate with notes of lemongrass, grapefruit, and green apples. An intriguing blend of saline minerality, florality, and a lingering, briny finish. Unique and delicious. Take it out of the fridge about 20 minutes before pouring and serve with a caper and olive-studded seafood salad. 

Tenuta di Castellaro Eúxenos 2022 ($43). 100% Malvasia delle Lipari grapes macerated in clay amphorae. The name comes from a 2,000-year-old amphora found on the Lipari seabed, stamped eoxenos (ancient Greek for ‘friendly to foreigners’), a word that felt like a message to Lentsch, an outsider who was welcomed to Lipari by the locals. Aromas of candied fruit, followed by a bone-dry palate with delicate minerality; round and textured; notes of apricot, lemon, and thyme. Try it slightly chilled with shrimp and scallop pasta with roasted cherry tomatoes.

Tenuta di Castellaro Nero Ossidiana Rosso 2021 ($38). 90% Corinto Nero, 10% Nero d’Avola. “Ossidiana” means obsidian and refers to the dark, shiny volcanic glass found on the island of Lipari. Aromas of subtle red and dark berry fruits (ripe cherries and plums) and Mediterranean herbs (thyme, sage). The palate is light-bodied with dusty, soft tannins; fresh, savory, and mineral with a mouthwatering tanginess. Serve slightly chilled with grilled or seared tuna steaks with caper sauce or cumin-spiced pork tenderloin.