Masterclass & Tasting Notes • WineDivaa

On Monday, September 28, I stepped into the intimate, wood-fired enclave of Peasant for an exclusive masterclass dinner celebrating the soul, history, and terroir of Romagna Sangiovese. Hosted in partnership with the Consorzio Vini di Romagna, the room crackled with that unmistakable Manhattan energy: industry luminaries, clinking stems, and the intoxicating perfume of charred rosemary and wood smoke.

Leading our deep dive was Jeff Porter, Writer-at-Large and Italian reviewer for Wine Enthusiast. Having studied under Jeff across countless masterclasses in the city before his move to Italy, sharing a table with him in New York felt like a joyful reunion. Jeff’s passion is infectious. He moved across the Atlantic purely for the love of the country’s culture, and his deep respect for these ancient hills breathed vibrant life into every pour. While my palate travels globally, my heart persistently circles back to Italian wine, there is an earthy pulse and romantic tension in these bottles that simply speaks to my soul.

The Aperitivo Prelude: Native Albana & Hidden White Jewels

Before sitting down to our savory feast, we gathered for an energetic standing reception that proved Emilia-Romagna’s whites are anything but an afterthought. The grape Albana took center stage, flaunting its tannic architecture and golden depth alongside aromatic surprises.

• Tre Monti 2025 Anablà: Crisp, crystalline, and bursting with citrus blossom.
• Tenute Tozzi 2023 Tantalilli Romagna Albana: Textured with dried apricot, chamomile, and an elegant, saline grip.
• Fattoria Zerbina 2025 Bianco di Ceparano Romagna Albana: Pure sunshine with ripe yellow orchard fruits and a laser-sharp mineral finish.
• Cantina Maurizio Costa 2025 InOro: Golden-hued, offering toasted almonds and wild herbs.
• Marta Valpiani 2024 Madonna dei Fiori Romagna Albana: Ethereal and floral, displaying striking beeswax and salinity.
• Noelia Ricci 2024 Brò Romagna: Fresh, tension-filled Trebbiano showing green orchard crunch and flint.
• Drei Donà 2023 Tornese Origini Chardonnay Forlì IGT: Burgundian refinement meets Italian swagger, boasting hazelnut and white peach.
• Tenuta La Viola 2025 Frangipane Romagna Albana: Ripe stone fruit with dried sage and a structured phenolic bite.
• Celli 2024 Bron & Rusèval Romagna Albana: Richly layered with preserved lemon and savory Mediterranean brush.
• Tenuta Casali 2025 Famoso Mercato Saraceno Romagna: An intensely aromatic, hypnotic showstopper of jasmine, candied lime peel, and wild mint.

Spotlight on an Ancient Revival: The “Famoso” of Mercato Saraceno

Among the standout white pours, one glass stopped me dead in my tracks: Tenuta Casali 2025 Famoso Mercato Saraceno Romagna.

Famoso grape was a genuine revelation. Historically documented back to the 15th century and affectionately known locally as Uva Rambèla, this intensely aromatic white grape was almost completely wiped off the viticultural map. Believed extinct by the late 20th century, it was miraculously rescued in the early 2000s when a local grower identified a few surviving, gnarly vines right in Mercato Saraceno, sparking a passionate regional revival.

In the glass, Famoso is intoxicating. It bursts forth with heady aromas of sweet jasmine blossom, sage, ripe pear, and candied citrus peel, teasing the nose with hints of sweetness before surprising the palate with a bone-dry, electric shock of mountain acidity, crushed limestone, and wild savory herbs.

Much of that vivid energy comes from the family behind the label. Nestled in the high-elevation Savio Valley, Tenuta Casali is guided by a dynamic brother-and-sister team, Valerio and Silvia Casali (alongside brother Paolo). Continuing the legacy started by their grandfather Mario, they farm organically across steep, gravelly river terraces where dramatic diurnal temperature swings lock in pristine acidity and aromatic nuance. Their dedication to championing both the altitude-driven Sangiovese of Mercato Saraceno and rare heritage gems like Famoso made this one of the most memorable discoveries of the night.

Terroir Unveiled: Young Sangiovese Across the Subzones

As we settled into dinner, the focus shifted to the dynamic subzones (sottozone) of Romagna Sangiovese. Comparing these younger 2024 bottlings side-by-side shattered any lingering myth that Sangiovese begins and ends in Tuscany.

The first course introduced the lifted limestone minerality of Tenuta La Viola Il Colombarone 2024 (Bertinoro), brimming with sour pie cherry and violets, balanced against Tenuta Casali Vigna Baruccia 2024 (Mercato Saraceno), which delivered wild mountain berries, crushed gravel, and high-altitude freshness.

Moving into the second flight, Tre Monti Classe 33 2024 (Serra) offered juicy red plums and cracked white pepper alongside Marta Valpiani La Farfalla 2024 (Castrocaro), an absolute knockout of silky red currants, crushed rose petals, and delicate wild strawberry.

The third course ventured into Predappio and Brisighella. Tenute Tozzi Iko 2024 (Brisighella) showed profound balsamic lift and iron-rich cherries. Next, Noelia Ricci Il Sangiovese 2024 (Predappio) dazzled with its signature purity—translucent ruby, bright cranberry, and wet clay. Finishing the flight, Drei Donà Notturno 2024 (Predappio) delivered brooding blackberries, tobacco leaf, and supple, velvety tannins.

Aged Royalty: The Power of Riserva and the Convivial Table

Peasant’s rustic wood-fired hearth set the stage for our grand finale. While my table companions savored Peasant’s famous crispy, succulent wood-roasted suckling pig, the kitchen gracefully accommodated my pescatarian lifestyle with charred, pristine seafood that embraced the rich smoke of the room.

The aged flight proved the majestic aging capacity of Romagna’s noble grape:

• Celli Bron & Rusèval Romagna DOC Sangiovese Bertinoro Riserva 2022: Dark cherries, sweet leather, and cocoa dust backed by firm, regal structure.
• Cantina Maurizio Costa Cento Romagna DOC Sangiovese Modigliana 2022: A masterpiece of altitude: chiseled tannins, black tea, blood orange zest, and forest floor.
• Fattoria Zerbina Pietramora Romagna DOC Sangiovese Marzeno Riserva 2021: Dense, complex, and aristocratic; packed with macerated black plums, licorice, dried tobacco, and seamless, velvety depth.

More than just a technical tasting, this was an evening of authentic convivialità, colleagues leaning across the table, trading notes, and celebrating bottles that possess genuine soul.

Wine Lovers: it is time to shake up your cellar and look beyond the predictable labels. The next time you find yourself at your favorite wine boutique or scanning an Italian wine list, ask your sommelier for a Romagna Sangiovese, and if you can spot a bottle of Famoso, grab it immediately. Salud, and let’s keep sipping with intention!

Keep up with Consorzio Vini di Romagna here.