Colombia is a big country. There are mountains, coffee regions, colorful towns, major cities, beaches, jungles, and countless places people had recommended to us before we arrived.
Yet during our time there, we stayed entirely along a small stretch of the Caribbean coast.
We based ourselves in Rodadero, visited Santa Marta several times, spent some time exploring Cartagena, and escaped to the mountains of Minca for a change of scenery. That was pretty much it.
Years ago, that realization might have bothered me. I probably would have looked at a map and immediately started listing all the places we missed: Medellín, Bogotá, the Coffee Region, Guatapé, and dozens of others.
Instead, I found myself feeling something completely different: content.
Not because we had seen everything Colombia had to offer, but because we had stopped trying to.
One of the biggest changes that has happened during over eight years of full-time travel is that somewhere along the way, I stopped measuring a destination by how much of it we managed to see. Instead, I began focusing more on living in a place, enjoying the simple everyday moments, and getting a deeper feel for it. Less about seeing all the sights and learning all the history, and more about experiencing the place as it is today and becoming part of its rhythm, even if only for a little while.
These days, I find myself paying attention to different things.
How did it feel? Did we enjoy our time here? Did we have time to breathe? Did we leave feeling connected to the place and to each other?
When I think back on our time in Colombia, those are the things I remember most. Not the destinations we missed, but the small corner of the country we got to know a little better.
So here is our little Colombia itinerary. It may not cover much of the country, but the places we did visit were filled with memorable experiences, beautiful scenery, and moments that made us glad we chose to slow down, stay awhile, and create memories there.
Our Home Base: Rodadero
For the first three weeks we chose to base ourselves in Rodadero, a beachside area just south of Santa Marta.
Our apartment was in one of the taller buildings overlooking the coastline. From our terrace, we could see the Caribbean Sea on one side and the green mountains rising behind the city on the other. It was the kind of view that constantly reminded us where we were, whether we were enjoying our morning coffee, working on our various projects, or watching the sunset at the end of the day.
Before arriving, we had read that Rodadero was known for its beaches and was one of the most popular vacation destinations on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. While Santa Marta often attracts visitors interested in history, culture, and access to nearby destinations like Tayrona National Park and Minca, Rodadero has built its reputation around the sea. Families from all over the country come here to enjoy the beaches, waterfront restaurants, and relaxed holiday atmosphere.
What appealed to us most was its simplicity.
Everything we needed was within easy reach. Grocery stores, restaurants, cafés, the beach, and transportation were all nearby. After nearly eight years of full-time travel, we have learned that practical details often matter just as much as famous attractions. A place can have incredible sights, but if daily life feels complicated, it can quickly become exhausting. Rodadero made everyday life easy.
Most mornings started quietly. I would work, the kids would focus on their own projects, and at some point, we would decide whether it was a beach day or an exploring day.
The Beaches
Since we had heard so much about the beaches in the area, we made it our mission to try several of them during our stay. We even made a whole video comparing them.
The most famous, of course, is Playa Rodadero itself. Its long stretch of sand and calm waters make it especially popular with families. It was often busy, particularly on weekends, but there was always something enjoyable about watching the activity unfold around us. Vendors wandered the beach selling everything imaginable, families gathered under umbrellas, or more accurately, under large tent-like shade structures, children played in the shallow water, and boats moved back and forth across the bay.
What was more challenging for us was the noise. Everyone seemed to bring their own speaker and play their own music, often very loudly. We love music, but when dozens of different songs are competing with each other at the same time, it becomes difficult to relax or enjoy any of them. It was definitely a different beach culture than what we are used to.
For a quieter atmosphere, we found ourselves drawn to Playa Bello Horizonte. The beach seemed to stretch endlessly and felt much less crowded than Playa Rodadero. There was more space to walk, more room to spread out, and a calmer atmosphere overall. The beach is also close to the airport, so while sitting there you can watch planes flying in and out.
We also spent time at Playa Salguero, which was much closer to Rodadero. Like Bello Horizonte, it was far less crowded and quickly became one of our favorite beaches for a relaxed afternoon. It felt more residential and less touristy, and there were noticeably fewer vendors walking by. Sometimes that alone was enough to make us stay longer.
One of the beaches we were most curious to visit was Playa Inca Inca. Unlike the others, getting there was part of the adventure. We took one of the small taxi boats that shuttle visitors along the coast. Most people continue on to Playa Blanca, which sits just next door and is one of the most popular beaches in the area, but we decided to spend our time at Inca Inca instead.
There was something about it that I really liked. Nestled between the mountains and the sea, it felt smaller and more intimate than some of the other beaches we visited. The water was beautiful, and the surrounding greenery made it feel like a little hidden corner of the coast.
One thing that stood out to us on many of the beaches around Rodadero was the unique shade structures covering the lounge chairs. Instead of rows of umbrellas, many beaches use large thatched coverings that create entire shaded sections. They became a welcome escape from the strong Caribbean sun, especially during the hottest part of the day.
We also quickly learned that beach prices can vary quite a bit depending on where you are. Something as simple as renting chairs and shade could cost significantly more on one beach than another. It was one of those small local details we only discovered after spending time exploring different parts of the coastline. I did try to haggle a few times, especially once I had a better idea of the going rates, although I can’t say I always got my way!
More than anything, the beaches became part of our daily rhythm. Some days we spent hours by the water, while other days we simply stopped for a walk along the shore before heading back home. Having so many different beaches within easy reach gave us plenty of variety without ever needing to travel far from our base in Rodadero.
The Dive
One of the reasons we chose this part of Colombia was because we were hoping to do quite a bit of diving. All of us have our dive certifications except Luca, and he was excited about the possibility of getting started on his own. We imagined spending several days exploring the underwater world together.
Unfortunately, the weather had other plans.
Strong winds affected the coast for most of our stay, and we kept postponing our dives week after week, hoping conditions would improve. Finally, during our last week, the winds eased enough for us to head out.
We chose a dive center that focused on the waters surrounding Tayrona National Park. Tayrona is one of Colombia’s most famous natural attractions, known for its jungle-covered mountains, secluded beaches, and dramatic coastline where the Sierra Nevada mountains meet the Caribbean Sea. We knew before arriving that we probably wouldn’t have enough time to properly explore the park itself, so diving nearby felt like a good way to experience at least a small part of it.
In the end, Emma decided to skip the dive. She simply wasn’t feeling it, and one thing we have always encouraged our kids to do is listen to their instincts. There will always be another dive.
For the rest of us, it was a great experience. The visibility wasn’t as good as we had hoped due to the recent winds, and even in the more sheltered areas the water remained fairly murky. After that dive, we decided not to book additional ones since we knew the conditions were unlikely to improve much before we left.
Still, it was a wonderful day. Luca got a little more exposure to the diving world, while Cosimo and I enjoyed getting back underwater again after some time away. It may not have been the diving experience we originally imagined, but it was another memory added to our month here.
Exploring Santa Marta
Although we stayed in Rodadero, we ended up visiting Santa Marta several times during our stay. Being only a short drive away made it an easy outing whenever we felt like exploring a little more of the area.
One of the first things we did was hop on a Chiva tour. If you’ve never seen one before, these colorful open-air buses are hard to miss in Colombia. Originally, Chivas were used to transport people, goods, and even animals through rural areas where regular buses couldn’t easily travel. Their bright colors and decorations made them instantly recognizable, and over time, they became an icon of Colombian culture. Today, many are still used for transportation, but in cities like Santa Marta they have also become sightseeing buses during the day and lively party buses at night, complete with music and dancing.
For us, it was a fun way to get a feel for the city and learn a bit more about its history before wandering around on our own.
What I didn’t realize before arriving is that Santa Marta is actually the oldest surviving Spanish-founded city in Colombia. Founded in 1525 by Rodrigo de Bastidas, the city recently celebrated its 500th anniversary. It has survived pirate attacks, colonial rule, independence movements, and centuries of change, all while maintaining its position along Colombia’s Caribbean coast.
The tour took us to several of the city’s most important landmarks. We stopped at the Cathedral Basilica of Santa Marta, considered the oldest cathedral in the country. Inside, we learned that Simón Bolívar’s remains were kept here for a period of time before eventually being returned to Venezuela. It is always fascinating to stand in places that have witnessed so much history.
We also visited Plaza de Bolívar, where locals and visitors gather beneath the shade of the trees. Like many plazas throughout Latin America, it felt like a place where history and everyday life coexist. People sat chatting on benches while children played nearby, completely unaware of how many important events had unfolded around them over the centuries.
One stop that especially stood out was the Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino, the hacienda where Simón Bolívar spent the final days of his life in 1830. Although we only drove through the grounds during the tour, it gave us a glimpse into one of the most important figures in South American history. The property is known for its gardens, courtyards, and museums that tell the story of Bolívar and Colombia’s path toward independence.
The tour also brought us to the famous monument of Carlos “El Pibe” Valderrama. Even if you don’t follow football, it is hard not to recognize the giant statue with its unmistakable curly hair. El Pibe was born in Santa Marta and is considered one of the greatest Colombian football players of all time. We got a kick out of seeing such a large tribute to a local sports hero.
Another place we visited was the Casa de la Aduana, also known as the Tayrona Gold Museum. This is considered one of the oldest surviving colonial buildings in Santa Marta and dates back to the early years of Spanish settlement. Over the centuries it served as the city’s customs house, regulating goods arriving and leaving through the port. Today it houses exhibits about the indigenous Tayrona people, local history, and the colonial period. Walking through it offered an interesting contrast between the region’s indigenous heritage and the arrival of the Spanish.
As we explored the historic center, one thing became very noticeable: the colonial architecture. Many of the buildings date back hundreds of years, a reminder of Santa Marta’s importance during the Spanish colonial era. The city was one of the first Spanish settlements on the northern coast of South America, and many of the structures were built around courtyards with thick walls designed to keep the interiors cool in the Caribbean heat. Walking through the streets felt a bit like stepping back in time, even as modern life continued all around us.
We also went in the marina and waterfront area, which became a place we would return to more than once during our stay. Today it has restaurants, sailboats, and dive operators, but historically Santa Marta’s port played an important role in trade and exploration along the Caribbean coast. In fact, it was from the marina that we headed out on a few of our diving adventures.
One of the things full-time travel has taught me is that you will never see everything. No matter how long you stay somewhere, there will always be another museum, another beach, another town, or another experience that you didn’t have time for.
Santa Marta reminded me of that.
It wasn’t a city we tried to conquer or complete. It was simply a city we got to know a little better with each visit. We wandered its historic streets, learned some of its stories, visited its landmarks, and enjoyed returning whenever we felt like a change from beach life in Rodadero.
Escaping to the Mountains of Minca
After spending most of our time between Rodadero and Santa Marta, it was nice to escape into the mountains for a day, so I booked a tour to Minca.
Minca is located in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the highest coastal mountain range in the world. What surprised me most was how quickly the scenery changed. Within a relatively short drive, the beaches and busy streets gave way to winding mountain roads, lush vegetation, and cooler temperatures.
It felt like entering a completely different world.
Our first stop was a viewpoint overlooking the bay. From there, we learned a little more about the Sierra Nevada and why it is considered one of the most important natural areas in the country. The region is known for its incredible biodiversity and has long been home to indigenous communities who still consider these mountains sacred.
One of the reasons we chose to visit Minca was because we had heard it offered a different side of Colombia. While the coast is known for its beaches and Caribbean atmosphere, Minca has become popular for its coffee farms, waterfalls, hiking trails, and nature-focused experiences.
From the viewpoint, we started our hike through the surrounding hills. It wasn’t particularly difficult, but the heat was enough to make us appreciate the shade provided by the trees. Along the way, we enjoyed mountain views and learned a little more about the plants in this region.
One of our stops was a local coffee farm. This was something we were especially looking forward to. It wasn’t our first coffee farm visit, we had already learned a lot about the process during a tour in Costa Rica years ago (you can read about it here), but after all, Colombia is famous for its coffee, so there always something more to learn.
One thing we found particularly interesting was learning why coffee from this region is considered some of the best in the world. According to our guide, the combination of high altitude, mountain climate, and proximity to the Caribbean creates ideal growing conditions for coffee plants. The result is a rich, flavorful coffee that has made Colombia famous around the world.
Another important aspect is the Indigenous approach to farming. They believe in the importance of neighboring plants and the role they play in helping coffee thrive. Because of this, coffee plantations are often surrounded by cacao trees and a variety of local fruit plants, creating a more diverse and balanced ecosystem.
We walked through the plantation, saw the coffee plants growing on the hillsides, and learned how the beans are picked, processed, dried, and eventually transformed into the coffee we drink every day. No matter how many times I see the process, it always gives me a greater appreciation for how much work goes into a simple cup of coffee.
Of course, one of the highlights of the day was cooling off in one of Minca’s waterfalls.
After the hike, the water felt incredibly refreshing. Luca wasted no time jumping in. Two local boys were sitting on a higher rock and, every so often would launch themselves into the water below. Naturally, all three of my kids decided they needed to do the same thing. Before long, they were climbing up, jumping in, swimming back, and repeating the process over and over again.
There is something special about swimming beneath a waterfall surrounded by jungle. For a little while, it feels like the rest of the world disappears.
That final stop involved something that immediately caught the attention of the entire family: chocolate.
During this cacao experience, we learned how cacao is transformed from bean to chocolate, how it was used by the Maya and Aztecs, and how Europeans later modified it into the chocolate we know today.
I assumed we would be making some sort of chocolate treat to take home. Instead, we were each handed a small amount of cacao paste, mixed it with sugar, and ate it. Then we received a second handful of cacao paste, but this time it wasn’t for eating. We spread it all over our faces to create what the guide described as an amazing beauty mask.
Soon, all of us were sitting there with chocolate-covered faces, listening to the guide explain the benefits of cacao for the skin.
I have to admit, it was not what I was expecting. But it was fun.
The kids loved it, and it ended up being one of the most memorable parts of the day. After the masks, we learned a little more about the traditional process of turning cacao beans into chocolate by hand, giving us an even greater appreciation for one of the world’s favorite treats.
By the time we made our way back toward the coast, we felt like we had experienced a completely different side of the region. In a single day we had explored the mountains, learned about coffee production, cooled off beneath a waterfall, enjoyed local food, and discovered a little more about cacao and chocolate.
Minca may be only a short distance from Santa Marta, but it felt worlds away from the beaches and city streets we had been exploring. It provided the perfect change of scenery and reminded us just how diverse this small corner Colombia really is.
Our time in Cartagena
Our final stop a was Cartagena, where we spent about ten days exploring.
Unlike many visitors who stay within the historic center, we chose accommodation just a short walk outside the old town. It was close enough that we could easily walk into the city whenever we wanted, but far enough away that we could escape some of the crowds at the end of the day. Plus, it was right across from the beach, so we could go for a dip whenever we felt like it.
That being said, one thing we quickly noticed in Colombia is that almost every apartment building seems to have a pool. Ours did too, and to be honest, we probably spent more time cooling off there than we did at the beach.
Of all the places we visited, Cartagena felt the most different from Rodadero, Santa Marta, and Minca. The colorful colonial buildings, flower-covered balconies, lively plazas, and centuries-old walls gave it an atmosphere unlike anywhere else we had experienced during our month in the country.
Before arriving, I knew Cartagena was famous, but I didn’t fully appreciate just how important it had been historically. Founded in 1533, Cartagena became one of the most important ports in the Spanish Empire. Gold, silver, and other treasures from across South America passed through its harbor before making the long journey back to Europe. Its wealth attracted pirates from around the world, including the infamous Sir Francis Drake, who attacked the city in 1586 and demanded a huge ransom.
To protect itself, Cartagena built massive defensive walls and fortifications. Today, it is one of the best-preserved colonial cities in the Americas and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Walking through the city, it is hard not to be impressed by how much of that history still remains.
One thing that surprised me was how different Cartagena felt from Santa Marta, not just architecturally but culturally as well. Cartagena has a strong Afro-Caribbean influence due to its history as one of the major ports involved in the transatlantic slave trade. As we walked through the city, it felt like there was a much greater mix of cultures, traditions, and influences than we had experienced elsewhere during our month in Colombia.
One of my favorite things to do was simply wander. We spent hours exploring the historic center and Getsemaní, Cartagena’s two most famous neighborhoods. While the old town felt elegant and historic, Getsemaní felt artistic, colorful, and full of life.
What I found interesting is that Getsemaní wasn’t always the trendy neighborhood it is today. Historically, it was home to workers, freed slaves, artisans, and merchants rather than the wealthy elite who lived inside the walled city. It also played an important role during Cartagena’s fight for independence. Today, its colorful murals, street art, musicians, and lively plazas give it a completely different feel from the old town, and every street seems to have its own personality.
As we walked through the historic center, I couldn’t help but notice the beautiful wooden balconies overflowing with flowers. Many of the buildings date back hundreds of years, yet the city somehow manages to feel alive rather than frozen in time. People still live there, work there, and gather in the plazas just as they have for generations.
We also spent time walking along Cartagena’s famous walls, now one of the city’s most iconic landmarks. Built over centuries to defend the city from attacks, they stretch for several kilometers around the historic center. Today, visitors can walk along many sections of the walls, enjoying views of both the colorful old town and the Caribbean Sea.
Looking out over the water while imagining pirate ships approaching the harbor made it easy to understand why Cartagena became one of the most heavily fortified cities in the Americas. Walking where soldiers once stood guard gave us a small glimpse into the city’s fascinating past and the important role it played during the Spanish colonial era.
One of the highlights of our stay was a cooking class. As a family, we always enjoy experiences that connect us to a destination through food, and this one was no exception. We learned about local ingredients, prepared traditional dishes, and enjoyed a meal that tasted even better knowing we had helped create it ourselves.
One of our favorite foods from the class was patacones. Made from green plantains, patacones are a popular staple throughout Colombia and many parts of Latin America. The plantains are first sliced and lightly fried, then smashed into flat rounds before being fried a second time until they become golden and crispy on the outside while remaining soft inside. They are often served as a side dish, appetizer, or topped with meats, cheese, guacamole, or other local ingredients.
Emma had already tried making patacones on her own before, but during the class, she finally learned the trick she had been missing. It was fun watching her discover that sometimes all it takes is one small tip to completely change the outcome. By the end of the class, she was already talking about making them again at home. Since then, patacones have become one of those dishes that instantly reminds us of Colombia whenever we make them.
While we were there, we also took a day excursion to the Rosario Islands. Located about an hour from Cartagena by boat, this archipelago is made up of dozens of small islands surrounded by crystal-clear Caribbean waters. It was a beautiful day out on the water and a nice contrast to the busy streets of Cartagena.
One of my favorite moments came when we stopped to snorkel. The underwater world was stunning, and at one point a local paddled up to us in a kayak selling fresh mango. He cut it up right there on the spot while we floated in the warm Caribbean Sea. It was one of those simple moments that somehow becomes unforgettable.
Unfortunately, not every part of the day felt quite as magical. When lunchtime arrived, we were taken to a beach that was extremely crowded and filled with loud music. After the peaceful waters we had been enjoying, it felt a little overwhelming. I suppose this is one of the downsides of visiting popular destinations. Tourism brings many benefits to local communities, but it can also take away some of the tranquility that travelers often seek.
Thankfully, before returning to the port, our captain made one final stop in a quiet little bay. For about thirty minutes, we swam, floated, and jumped into the water without the crowds or noise. The calm turquoise water and peaceful atmosphere were exactly what we had been hoping for. It ended up being one of the highlights of the entire excursion and a perfect way to end the day.
Cosimo’s 17th Birthday
Cosimo’s 17th Birthday
But if I’m honest, when I think back on Cartagena, the first thing that comes to mind isn’t the colorful streets, the cooking class, or even the Rosario Islands.
It’s Cosimo’s birthday.
While we were there, Cosimo turned 17. As parents, those birthdays seem to arrive faster and faster every year. Somehow, the little boy who once needed help with so many things is now a young man who stands taller than both of us.
To make the celebration even more special, Mass surprised the kids by reuniting with us in Cartagena. Watching their reactions when he walked into the apartment was absolutely priceless and made the birthday even more memorable. We had been apart for two months, and Mass had worked hard to keep the surprise a secret because he wanted to make the reunion truly special. In the end, he was the greatest gift of all.
The destination suddenly became secondary.
What mattered was being together.
What I loved most was that Cosimo’s biggest wish for his birthday wasn’t presents, sleeping in, or spending the day doing nothing, although I’m sure a little extra sleep would have been appreciated. What he really wanted was to spend the day walking through the streets of Cartagena with all of us, even in the intense Caribbean heat.
That simple wish said a lot.
It reminded me that, after years of traveling together, the places we visit are only part of the story. The real memories are made in the moments we share along the way. And judging by how much Cosimo enjoyed Cartagena, I think this city will always hold a special place in his heart, and in ours.
Final Thoughts on Our Time in Colombia
As I look back on our month in Colombia, what stands out to me most is not how much we saw, but how little we felt the need to.
When we first arrived, there were countless places we could have added to our itinerary. Colombia is a country that could easily keep a traveler busy for months. There are mountains we never visited, cities we never reached, and experiences we never had time for.
And yet, I don’t feel like our trip was incomplete.
Instead of rushing from destination to destination, we spent our time getting to know a small corner of the country a little better.
We settled into life in Rodadero. We wandered through the historic streets of Santa Marta. We escaped into the mountains of Minca. We explored Cartagena and celebrated Cosimo’s seventeenth birthday.
Some days were filled with activities. Others were filled with nothing more exciting than grocery shopping, working, cooking dinner, or watching the sunset from our apartment. Those ordinary moments have become some of my favorite parts of full-time travel.
When we first set off in 2018, I often felt like every day needed to be extraordinary. I wanted to make the most of every destination and every opportunity.
Over the years, I’ve learned that meaningful travel doesn’t always come from doing more. Sometimes it comes from slowing down enough to notice where you are.
A beach you return to several times. A city that starts to feel familiar. A local café where you become a regular. A conversation with your children while walking through a place none of you had ever heard of a few months earlier.
Those moments rarely make it onto bucket lists, but they are often the ones I remember the most.
Colombia gave us beautiful beaches, colorful cities, mountain adventures, good food, and plenty of opportunities to learn. But more than that, it gave us another month together as a family, exploring the world at our own pace.
Will we return one day? Maybe. There is certainly plenty more to see.
But if we don’t, I am happy with the month we had. We didn’t see it all. We simply spent some time getting to know one small corner of it, and in return it gave us beautiful memories, family adventures, and another reminder that sometimes slower really is better. And for this chapter of our journey, that was more than enough.
