The spirit, coastline, and landscapes of Sicily won us over within hours of arriving. From that first day, this Mediterranean island felt unlike anywhere else we’d been before.
No two days were alike. We explored ancient ruins, sampled local wines on the slopes of Mount Etna, lingered over coffee in grand piazzas, browsed artisan boutiques, and relaxed on the beach. Sicilian cuisine, shaped by Italian, Arab, Greek and Spanish influences, is worth the trip alone. Fresh seafood, handmade pasta, pistachio-crusted cannoli, and granita (a semi-frozen dessert often served with a warm brioche for breakfast) made every meal memorable. We still can’t figure out why granita in a brioche isn’t a breakfast staple everywhere.
Although Sicily is a large island, one week is the perfect amount of time to sample many of its highlights without feeling rushed. After months of research, we mapped out a “best of highlights” itinerary through Palermo, Cefalù, Agrigento, Ortigia, Mount Etna, and Taormina. For my husband and me, Sicily quickly became one of our favorite trips, and we’d return in a heartbeat.
Here are some practical tips:
Getting Around: This itinerary includes one short train ride and a rental car for several days avoiding driving into any large cities. Despite reports to the contrary, we found driving on highways between cities in Sicily to be easy, with well-maintained roads, clear signage, and no issues navigating. Driving in some of the cities can be challenging, mainly because of narrow streets.
TIP: Use Waze for directions and keep some cash handy for tolls.
When to Go: May through October offers the best chance for warm weather and open attractions and restaurants. July and August are the busiest and hottest months, while the “shoulder seasons” of May, June, September, and October bring smaller crowds, milder temperatures, and often better hotel rates.
DAY 1 Palermo
Where to Stay: Nestled in Palermo’s historic Kalsa district, Bastione Spasimo is a peaceful oasis minutes away from the busy city center. Originally built in the 16th century as part of Palermo’s defensive fortifications, Bastione Spasimo beautifully blends history with modern comforts and offers guests a tasty gourmet breakfast.
What to Do: After a long flight, for a stress-free start, we booked Transport Airport Palermo, a highly rated private car service. Our friendly driver was promptly waiting with a sign, took care of our luggage, and drove us to our hotel in a luxury vehicle. Along the way he pointed out landmarks and shared stories about Palermo, warmly welcoming us to Sicily.
After checking in, we decided to hit a few highlights including the lively Ballarò Food Market (best visited early in the day), the glittering mosaics inside the Cappella Palatina at the Palazzo dei Normanni, and the architectural grandeur of the Quattro Canti (the four corners) Baroque-styled square that stands as the picturesque crossing point of the center of the city .
For lunch we set out to discover Palermo’s incredible culinary scene on a top-rated food tour by Streaty Food Tours. We spent three delicious hours with our engaging guide exploring atmospheric back alleys, bustling markets, and locals-only spots while learning about Sicilian cuisine and everyday life in Palermo.
Along the way, we saw hidden areas of the city and sampled regional specialties including crispy panelle (chickpea fritters, my favorite!), arancina (deep-fried rice balls, my husband’s favorite), cazzilli (potato croquettes), sfincione (Sicilian-style focaccia), traditional meat dishes, cheeses, local olives, cannoli, and, for the adventurous eaters in the group, stigghiola (grilled intestines). We enjoyed getting to know fellow travelers while breaking bread (and more).
TIPS: Come hungry, and when you book the tour, be sure to let the company know about any dietary restrictions, and they will try their best to accommodate you! It’s helpful to know that in eastern Sicily, arancini are often cone-shaped, while in western Sicily, they are called arancina and are usually round.
Next, we were dazzled by the majestic interior of the Cathedral of Palermo, which houses the ashes of its patron saint, Rosalia. Be sure to climb to the rooftop, where we were rewarded with sweeping city views. We wrapped up our sightseeing with a fascinating 40-minute tour of Teatro Massimo. Opened in 1897, Italy’s largest opera house is known for its magnificent auditorium and for its cameo in The Godfather Part III.
Piazza Magione in La Kalsa is a fun place to explore dinner options, with a wide variety of cafés and pizzerias lining the public square. Exhausted after a long day, we returned to the Bastione Spasimo Hotel to recount our adventures with a glass of wine while sitting outside in the garden under the stars.
DAY 2 Cefalù
Where to Stay: For a luxury base in Cefalù, the top-rated Le Calette N°5 and Le Calette Bay both boast exceptional service, elegant accommodations, and thoughtful attention to detail. For a less expensive option close to town, Cefalù Sea Palace [https://cefaluseapalace.it/en/] has comfortable rooms, a beach across the road, a rooftop with spectacular views, and a generous breakfast buffet.
What to Do: It’s easy to take a quick, inexpensive, and scenic train ride from Palermo to Cefalù, a charming seaside town. We began by exploring the Lavatoio Medievale, a well-preserved medieval washhouse, strolling along the Lungomare with its harbor and beach views, and visiting the eclectic Museo Mandralisca and its famous Portrait of an Unknown Man by Antonello da Messina, whose smirk is often compared to that of the Mona Lisa.
For lunch, we joined the queue at La Cefalù Nostrana [https://www.lacefalunostrana.com/], where husband-and-wife owners prepare incredible focaccia sandwiches jam-packed with fresh local cheeses, vegetables, and meats. Definitely worth the wait. TIP: For a memorable picnic, eat your sandwiches on a bench overlooking the sea.
Next up, recharging at Le Calette Reef Club, a beautiful seaside hotel and beach club. Le Calette’s design connects to its surroundings, with manicured gardens, seaside terraces, and sweeping views. We spent hours relaxing on the comfy king-sized sunbeds, enjoying drinks, and taking in the incredible views of the turquoise water and the rugged coastline of Cadura Bay.
TIP: Day passes are available to non-hotel guests, and you can also book Thai massages.
After freshening up at our hotel, we headed to Le Terme, a unique fine-dining restaurant set within Roman-era thermal baths. Owner Alessio Burranco fulfilled his father’s vision by preserving the setting’s history while blending it with modern elements.
Dining at Le Terme feels like stepping into a living piece of Cefalù’s past. With a terrace overlooking the water, endless hospitality, and dishes focused on local ingredients, Le Terme is a memorable place to experience Sicilian cuisine. Guests can also choose from a tasting menu for a chance to sample the chef’s creations throughout the evening.
Highlights of our meal included a memorable scallop appetizer with potato cappuccino, two tasty pasta dishes (spaghetti with butter, lemon, and shrimp and linguine with pine nuts, candied lemon, anchovies, and summer zucchini mousse), and a standout entree: flavorful amberjack teriyaki with leek and a beurre blanc sauce. Be sure to save room for dessert. The heavenly tiramisu was to die for!
DAY 3 Cefalù
What to Do: We started our morning with some beach time (daybeds are available to rent, and some hotels provide them to guests). For a more active start to the day, consider hiking the 879-foot La Rocca, whose trail to the peak offers dramatic vistas and winds through greenery and past medieval walls.
For lunch, consider grabbing a table at a café in Cefalù’s buzzy main square, Piazza del Duomo. Next, we visited the dazzling Duomo with its magnificent mosaics, spent a few hours wandering the picturesque alleys lined with charming boutiques, and enjoyed an authentic gelato (Squagghio’s flavors were mouth-watering).
Begin your evening toasting with a drink while watching the sunset from the deck of Bordomari Sea Lounge Bar, perched right over the sea. For dinner, we kept things casual at Jureka, sitting outside and watching the sky erupt in vivid colors as the sun slipped into the sea.
Jureka’s menu offers Sicilian favorites, salads, charcuterie boards, schiacciatas (sandwiches on focaccia-like bread), bruschettas (caponata was our favorite), and a long list of inventive cocktails (they make a perfect Moscow Mule). Our waiter had us laughing from the moment we sat down, adding to an unforgettable night of delicious food and tasty beverages.
We then moved onto Kalapinta Craft Beer, a nearby taproom where locals gather both indoors and outdoors for homemade brews (creatively named after the Old Town gates), as well as a well-curated selection of wines, mocktails, and cocktails. We loved chatting with Anthony, one of the owners, who shared his passion for brewing beer with us.
DAY 4 Agrigento
Where to Stay: Housed in a late 18th-century residence, the upscale Villa Athena is the only 5-star resort within the Valley of the Temples, with its own private entrance to the archaeological site. The hotel magically blends history with modern rooms and offers exceptional hospitality, with beautiful gardens, a lovely pool, spa and fitness facilities, a generous breakfast, impressive art, and even an on-site farm where guests can book ahead to share a gourmet meal with other guests.
What to Do: We woke up early in Cefalù, rented a car from Europcar, and drove less than two hours to Scala Del Turchi (Stairs of the Turks), named for the natural stone stairs that protected the island from raids by Turkish pirates. We carefully scaled the stunning white limestone cliffs, and sunbathed on the terraces overlooking the mesmerizing blue water.
TIP: Book a tourist “blue pass” ticket, and wear sturdy shoes.
A short walk along the beach brings you to the chic and picturesque Lounge Beach Scala dei Turchi, offering an elevated beach club vibe, alongside indoor and outdoor dining, with jaw-dropping views of the beach and of the Scala Del Turchi.
My husband devoured his juicy hamburger, and I enjoyed pasta with flavorful jumbo shrimp. We sipped our refreshing piña coladas while literally licking the plate clean of our deconstructed tiramisu. Mmm! Lounge Beach is the perfect place to visit any time of day.
We returned to Villa Athena to take a swim in the gorgeous pool. After a rest in the garden-like setting, we visited the Valley of the Temples, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the highlights of our entire week in Sicily. Walking among these remarkably-preserved, magnificent, and towering temples is humbling.
Highlights include the Temple of Concordia (one of the best-preserved Greek temples anywhere), the Temple of Juno, and the remains of the Temple of Hercules. We were in awe of these temples still standing more than 2,400 years later. Our late-afternoon visit was perfectly timed, enabling us to explore in daylight, experience the sunset over the ancient ruins, and stay until the temples were illuminated in the darkness of the night.
One of the best parts of staying at Villa Athena is dining at La Terrazza degli Dei, with the ancient temples as a backdrop and live music to set the mood. A surprise favorite dish was the Garden Vegetable Compose, a colorful mix of fresh fruits and vegetables from the hotel’s garden paired with fragrant black rice.
We also loved the Sicilian Lamb with pistachios, herbs, roast jus, caponata, and sautéed spinach. Definitely save room for one of their tempting desserts. After dinner, we shared a bottle of prosecco by the garden bar, with the glow of the lit-up temples in the distance. Simply magical!
DAY 5 Ortigia and Ancient Syracuse
Where to Stay: The five-star Grand Hotel Ortigia has been welcoming guests for more than 130 years and combines old-world charm with contemporary comforts. This elegant waterfront hotel offers a rooftop terrace, restaurant, and bar with stunning views. Guests can access the hotel’s spa and a private beach (open during the summer months).
What to Do: We drove a little over two hours to Ortigia, a tiny Baroque island and the compact historic center of Syracuse. For your morning, there are two great options. History lovers will want to explore nearby Syracuse’s Neapolis Archaeological Park, with well-preserved Greek and Roman ruins.
Top spots include the ancient Greek Theater, the Roman Amphitheater, and the Ear of Dionysius, a huge limestone cave carved into the hill with stellar acoustics. Having just toured ruins in Agrigento, we opted to stay in town to visit Castello Maniace, an impressive fortress perched at the tip of Ortigia. We walked along its thick stone walls, enjoying the sea views in every direction.
For a deep dive into Ortigia’s culinary scene, we booked a Do Eat Better food tour. Our guide, Giuseppe, a native Sicilian, led us through the bustling Ortigia Market, introducing us to family-run businesses and local specialties we never would have discovered on our own.
One of our favorite stops was a famous traditional salumeria, where we feasted on an incredible spread of cured meats, local cheeses, fresh mozzarella, marinated eggplant, sweet onions, olives, and warm bread for building our own sandwiches. Wow! Along the way, we sampled so many delicious dishes, including fried seafood served in a paper cone, humongous arancini with fillings of our choice, and Sicilian cheeses, as well as tasted local wines and liquors.
We finished with two classic Sicilian desserts: a ricotta-filled cannolo and a refreshing granita, which we enjoyed in one of Ortigia’s beautiful piazzas. The tour was about much more than food. With a background in history, Giuseppe regaled us with fascinating stories about Ortigia’s architecture, traditions, and everyday life.
He even took us to a workshop specializing in colorful, hand-painted Sicilian ceramics, where we spotted the perfect souvenirs. By the end of the tour, we felt like we’d experienced the real Ortigia.
Satiated, we then strolled through Via della Giudecca, the old Jewish Quarter, and toured the world’s best-preserved underground mikveh (a Jewish ritual bath). Next, we wandered along the waterfront promenades and down cobblestone streets, passing by some of the city’s top sights including the Temple of Apollo, the Fountain of Arethusa, and the Cathedral of Syracuse. The Cathedral is an architectural wonder which blends multicultural influences.
Before dinner, we marveled over the sunset while sipping aperitifs and nibbling a few gourmet bites on the opulent rooftop terrace of the Grand Hotel Ortigia. For dinner, we were excited to try Le Vin de l’Assassin Bistro, a romantic, laid-back, bohemian restaurant that blends French cooking techniques with Sicilian flavors.
We dined beneath the stars in an alley decorated with rainbow-colored lights, creating a cozy yet festive setting. We adored the charming handwritten menu-notebook, the extensive wine list, and the extremely reasonable prices.
We started with their show-stopping flavorful gazpacho topped with creamy burrata and finished with a drizzle of olive oil…we practically scraped the bowl clean. I was impressed by my perfectly cooked pasta, adorned with tasty eggplant topped with a rich red sauce with smoky cheese.
My husband flipped for the duck, served over sweet potato purée alongside broccoli and red fruit, describing it as “dreamy.” The dessert selection looked equally tempting, but this time we regretfully declined because we already exceeded our sweets quota during our food tour. The friendly waitstaff will assist you in selecting a wine to complement the flavors in your meal. And, if it’s on the menu, their tuna dishes and steak with gorgonzola sauce are house favorites.
For a special finale to our night, we embarked on a self-guided audio tour of the Palazzo Borgia Del Casale, a historic residence with ornate ceilings, sparkling chandeliers, and a strong feeling of nobility. This romantic experience was amplified by sipping a glass of Sicilian prosecco while wandering through the palace’s beautifully decorated rooms.
DAY 6 Taormina
Where to Stay: For the epitome of luxury, stay at the San Domenico Palace, Taormina, A Four Seasons Hotel, a Three Michelin Key hotel, and famously, the setting for the second season of HBO’s The White Lotus. For a less expensive price point, yet stellar ratings, check out Hotel Casa Adele which prides itself on a high level of service, updated and tastefully decorated rooms, a tasty breakfast, and a rooftop deck with a view.
The gracious owners, Giuseppe Cascios (the former historic director of the San Domenico Palace) and his wife, Adele, redesigned this grand residence into a boutique hotel. Both hotels are centrally located, enabling you to walk anywhere in town.
What to Do: We set out in the morning from Ortigia for the approximately 90-minute drive to heavenly Taormina. Spend the first day getting oriented to this magical place. Start by wandering the main pedestrian-friendly Corso Umberto, which runs through the heart of the city between two ancient stone gates, Porta Messina in the north and Porta Catania in the south.
Take your time popping into the upscale boutiques and find a café to sip a drink while people-watching. By the way, even the café options are luxurious. Dolce Gabbana has a hybrid cafe/store on the main square with striking colorful designs!
We started our time in Taormina by wandering through the lively piazzas, stopping for refreshing granitas at Bam Bar, sipping coffee in the vibrant piazza, and picking up a few beautiful leather souvenirs before heading to what would become one of the highlights of our trip: lunch at the five-star San Domenico Palace, Taormina, A Four Seasons Hotel. Set in a beautifully restored 14th-century convent, this hotel more than lives up to its reputation, with breathtaking gardens, elegant lounges, a cliff-top infinity pool, and unforgettable vistas of the sparkling sea below.
As devoted White Lotus fans, we reserved lunch at Anciovi immediately after booking our flights to Sicily. Overlooking both the Ionian Sea and the iconic infinity pool, with warm, personal, and polished service, our lunch was even more phenomenal than we’d imagined.
Every dish showcased the exceptional ingredients Sicily is known for, from the wood-fired pizza and perfectly grilled fish of the day to an elegant tuna amuse-bouche, classic eggplant caponata, seasonal vegetables, and gelato bursting with fresh berries. After lunch, we lingered over cocktails in the peaceful cloister courtyard, soaking in the history and atmosphere of this remarkable property.
TIP: If you’re not a guest staying at the hotel, you’ll need a dining or bar reservation to access the property.
We then spent a few hours touring the Teatro Greco (the Greek Theater), a hillside theater originally constructed by the Greeks in the 3rd century BC. The theater’s views of the coast and city are breathtaking. For sunset, we joined tourists on the terrace of the black-and-white tiled heart of the city, the iconic Piazza IX Aprile, then strolled to the nearby Villa Comunale public gardens to watch the sky’s colors deepen over the sea.
For dinner, we made our way to the bright and cheery Italian restaurant Porta Messina, located just outside one of the main ancient gates. My husband and I had a great time eating huge portions of pasta and pizza (yes, our second pizza of the day!).
To cap off the day, we caught a “greatest hits” style performance by the Italian Opera Taormina. Although the threat of lightning moved the show from the outdoor Greek Theater to an indoor auditorium, the beautiful music made for a memorable introduction to Italian opera.
DAY 7 Taormina & Mt. Etna
What to Do: We headed out early for a scenic and windy drive to Mount Etna, Europe’s highest and most active volcano. The well-reviewed company Funivia dell’Etna offers several options to explore Mount Etna, ranging from easy walks around the lower craters to expert-guided hikes for more adventurous visitors.
You can ride the cable car up the volcano and, if conditions allow, continue even higher by 4×4 bus to explore the out-of-this-world volcanic landscape, lava fields, and summit area.
TIP: Your visit is entirely weather dependent. We arrived on a snowy, sleeting day, so the cable car wasn’t running. Fortunately, the buses were still operating, allowing us to still experience the volcano.
We then drove to the Gambino Winery on the eastern slopes of Mount Etna for one of our favorite lunches of the trip. The combination of volcanic soil, high elevation, and cool mountain climate produces distinctive wines unlike anywhere else in Sicily.
After a tour of the family-owned winery and learning about its rich history, our sommelier and waiter, Giuseppe, guided us through a relaxing tasting of seven wines. Each pour was paired with a fabulous view and local specialties, including dishes such as preserved vegetables, Sicilian cheeses, creamy soup, grilled sausage with potatoes and sautéed spinach, and, to finish, a ricotta-filled cannolo. We were fortunate to meet Francesco, one of the passionate sons of Maria Gambino, the founder of the winery, making the experience feel even more special and welcoming.
Upon our return to Taormina, we took the Taormina-Mazzarò cable car down from the main town to the beach. After strolling along the cafés and walking down many flights of steep stone stairs, we then slipped off our shoes to wade barefoot along a narrow pebble sandbar knee-deep through the sea to reach the untouched beauty of the Isola Bella Nature Preserve’s Museo Naturalistico Regionale di Isolabella, which includes abundant tropical plants and sweeping views of the city above.
TIP: To make your brief walk through the lapping water more comfortable, wear shorts or a dress that can easily be raised, and water shoes. Sitting on a bench, gazing back at Taormina, we soaked it all in, relishing the end of this spectacular vacation.
With a late-evening flight on our itinerary, we enjoyed our last gelato, drove to the Catania airport, dropped off our rental car, and began our trek home, connecting through Naples, where we spent the night. Our trip to Sicily ranks as one of our absolute favorites we have ever taken anywhere in the world.
DISCLAIMER
The author was provided with some discounted and/or complimentary passes and meals so that she could try the attractions/restaurants and review them for your information. All opinions are her own. Most images courtesy of Lisa Grabelle unless otherwise noted.
ABOUT AUTHOR
This guest post was written by Lisa Grabelle. Lisa, a freelance travel writer, has been traveling all her life…49 countries and loving it! Originally from the sunny skies of Miami, Lisa, a former big firm lawyer, lives near Philadelphia. Travel is her passion. As soon as one vacation ends, Lisa busily plans her next adventure for her non-stop family of adventurers. Lisa’s motto is “don’t just visit the destination…live it!” You can follow Lisa on Instagram.
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