I lived in London for two years before I moved to Amsterdam. And I fly into London at least twice a year to visit family and friends. But the idea of writing a London restaurant guide has always felt intimidating: the city is just so damn big. To reduce London’s dining scene to just a handful of restaurants is undoubtedly to do a disservice to a city that has come on in culinary leaps and bounds since the British food we all knew and hated in the 1980s. It’s the definition of a melting pot: serving up everything from authentic Sri Lankan curries to modern British nose-to-tail dining.
It was too much of a task to take on by myself, so I enlisted the help of some London foodies. They range from close family and friends to food writers and vloggers – and, most importantly, I trust all of them to give you the real scoop on where to eat in London as a local.
Since the city is so big, I’ve split this guide according to geography: starting in the tourist centre, working out to the Circle Line tube stops, and finishing up in some of the neighbourhoods where locals actually live. I will no doubt add to all of these over time…
Planning your visit to London
Before we dive into the list, here are a few trip essentials:
- Getting there: London is served by five airports, so it’s worth checking which one your flight lands at before you book accommodation. Heathrow (west) is the main hub for long-haul and international flights – British Airways, American Airlines, United, Delta and Virgin Atlantic all fly direct from major US cities. Gatwick (south) also handles plenty of transatlantic and European routes. Stansted (northeast) and Luton (north) are mainly budget-airline territory – easyJet, Ryanair and Wizz Air – for those connecting via Europe, while London City (east) is the most central but has limited routes. Compare flights across all of them on Expedia or Omio. If you’re coming from continental Europe, Eurostar is a good alternative – direct trains from Amsterdam, Paris and Brussels arrive right in central London at St Pancras.
- Getting around: The Tube is the backbone of getting around London, and a contactless card (or Oyster) will get you the same capped fares as locals – no need to buy anything in advance. Central London is also very walkable once you’re there.
- Where to stay: Given how spread out this guide is, where you base yourself will shape which restaurants are easy versus a trek. Booking.com has the full range, from central hotels to apartments further out.
- Tours & experiences: As a first-hand recommendation, Eating Europe runs excellent food tours. I’ve done both their East End Food Tour (Spitalfields Market, Brick Lane, Shoreditch) and their Twilight Soho Food & Drinks Tour, and can vouch for both.
- Further reading: Planning a trip to the UK? Check out my restaurant guide to Edinburgh, Scotland.
Restaurants in Central London: Soho, Covent Garden and thereabouts
It’s unclear whether I qualify as a tourist in London having spent 20 years abroad, but tourist or not, I often find myself gravitating towards the labyrinth of historic streets in Soho, the buzz of Covent Garden, and the majesty of Piccadilly Circus and Mayfair. Perhaps uncharacteristically for such a high-tourist-traffic area, there are good restaurants around every corner. Here are some local favourites:
Andrew Edmunds (Soho)
“Andrew Edmunds is one of my all-time favourite restaurants in London,” says Rowena Tolley, my friend of 35 years and chartered trademark attorney. “It’s in a cosy 18th-century townhouse in the heart of Soho, packed with character – the kind of place you want to settle into for one of those all-afternoon lunches (or a lengthy romantic dinner!). It has a hand-written, seasonal menu of modern British dishes that are utterly unfussy: think smoked ham hock terrine and chalk-stream trout. They also have two private dining rooms, both gorgeous, with options for set menus as well as wine tastings. If you’re after an intimate setting, with stonkingly good food and wine plus charming service, look no further!”
Polpo (Soho)
Specialising in Venetian cicchetti (shareable snacks) and handily located between Oxford Circus and Piccadilly Circus, Polpo is a good little Italian spot to have in your back pocket. I’ve often met friends there, because the cicchetti concept makes it easy to order as much or as little as you like and to accommodate friends who arrive late or need to leave early. Try their croquettes, crostini, spritzes and Italian wines. Note: Polpo has a second location in Chelsea, but I’ve only been to their Soho branch.
Cocktail o’clock at Polpo
Bone Daddies (Soho)
Bone Daddies has been one of Soho’s go-to ramen spots since it first opened in 2012. Their signature is a 20-hour pork bone broth, best sampled in the tonkotsu or the spicier tantanmen (or do as I did and order the tonkotsu and add your own chilli oil to taste). Beyond ramen, the gyoza, soft shell crab and bao are all worth ordering as well. Note: Bone Daddies now has several branches across London, but the original Soho spot is the one with the cult following.
Tonkotsu ramen at Bone Daddies
Flesh & Buns (Covent Garden)
Hidden in a basement just off Seven Dials, Flesh & Buns is an izakaya-style Japanese restaurant based around build-your-own steamed hirata buns, filled with anything from wagyu sirloin to crispy pork belly (which is what I ordered – see picture below). It’s a sister restaurant to Bone Daddies but unlike ramen, the format is designed for sharing: expect a table full of small plates, from sashimi to Korean fried wings, alongside the main event. The low lighting and buzzy atmosphere make it a good pick for a lively dinner with friends, or a pre-theatre bite given the Covent Garden location.
Pork belly buns at Flesh & Buns
Dishoom (Covent Garden)
Modelled on the Irani cafés of old Bombay, Dishoom Covent Garden is where it all began back in 2010, and remains the smallest and most atmospheric of the now-sizeable chain. The all-day menu ranges from breakfast naan rolls through to evening grills and curries, but my favourites were the street food snacks: the house chaat comprises fried sweet potato smothered in yoghurt, pomegranate, raw julienned veggies, tamarind and green chutney, while the keema pau comes in the form of two soft, sweet buns, ready to fill with a spicy minced lamb and pea mixture. Note: Dishoom now has locations across London and the UK, but Covent Garden is the original.
Dishoom’s flagship restaurant at Covent Garden
Gymkhana (Mayfair)
I asked fellow food writer Jeffrey Merrihue, author of popular Substack Xtreme Foodies, for his take on Britain’s cuisine capital. “London is one of the world’s great gastronomic melting pots,” he says. “India, Pakistan, China, Southeast Asia, Japan and every corner of Europe are all represented here. Some even argue that the Indian cuisine in London, produced by expatriate chefs combining traditional techniques with excellent local and imported ingredients, is better than what you will find in India itself. For a glamorous feast, you can’t do better than Gymkhana in Mayfair. With two Michelin stars, this elite Indian restaurant offers a high-end dining experience with world-class spice profiles – but be warned, it requires deep pockets and booking months ahead.”
Masala Zone (Piccadilly)
The newest and grandest of the Masala Zone group, Masala Zone Piccadilly occupies the opulent old Criterion restaurant building, with its gold mosaic ceilings and Indian decorative flourishes. It feels luxurious, but the prices are still affordable. The format is pan-Indian home cooking – thalis, regional curries, biryanis and street food-style chaat – offering a broad introduction to Indian cuisine. It’s a good pre-theatre option given the location, and the thalis are an easy way to sample several dishes at once (which is exactly what I did last time I was there). Note: Masala Zone has other branches around London, but the Piccadilly location wins on pure opulence.
Gilded ceilings and epic thali at Masala Zone
Fallow (Haymarket)
When I told my friend and fellow foodie Laura Honickberg that I’d been debating between Fallow and another restaurant, but had plumped for the alternative for public transport reasons, her words were: “You’re making a big mistake – Fallow is one of the best restaurants in London!” It’s modern British cuisine, built around a conscious gastronomy concept: sustainability-focused, nose-to-tail, root-to-stem cooking, and a zero-waste policy. Signature dishes include things like lamb’s tongue, cod’s head and salmon belly. “The corn ribs are life-changing,” according to Laura; “who knew such a thing existed? They were so good, I ordered a second helping for dessert and bought three jars of the kombu seasoning to take home!” Final advice: book a seat at the open-kitchen counter for the best views of the chefs at work.
Hélène Darroze at The Connaught (Mayfair)
I’ve only been to Hélène Darroze’s restaurant at The Connaught once, for my parents’ 50th wedding anniversary, but it was so good that I still remember it fondly. (I also remember a couple at a nearby table stealing the teaspoons! But that’s a story for another day.) As you might imagine from a Michelin three-star restaurant, the dining room alone is pretty lavish, while the menu incorporates modern French cuisine with international influences drawn from Darroze’s travels – Isle of Mull lobster with tandoori spices, for example. The signature dessert is the ‘Baba’, served with a choice of Armagnacs from Hélène’s brother Marc – the restaurant has a dedicated Armagnac Room next door, with more than 250 different Armagnacs. In addition to the multi-course tasting menu, there’s now also seasonal à la carte lunch menu if you want something shorter and simpler. But either way, this is pure fine dining for a special occasion territory.
Restaurants on London’s Circle Line
Whenever I’m in London, I seem to find myself endlessly hopping on and off the Circle Line: the yellow underground route that loops around the city’s major sights. It’s the Tube’s oldest line, but still its most useful: connecting major stations like King’s Cross (north), Liverpool Street (east), Victoria (south) and Paddington (west). As such, it’s helpful to have a handful of go-to restaurants along the way.
Hoppers (King’s Cross)
Part of the cult Sri Lankan restaurant chain, Hoppers King’s Cross takes its interior design cues from the coastal journey between Colombo and the old Dutch trading town of Galle – warm wood, glass lanterns and woven fabric panels. True to its name, the hopper (a bowl-shaped, fermented rice-and-coconut-milk pancake) is the thing to order, and I can vouch for pairing it with the black pork kari – Tamil for curry – rich, dark and warmly spiced. The devilled paneer is another good pick if you’re after something with a chilli kick. Note: Hoppers now has branches elsewhere in London, but King’s Cross is the biggest and most spacious of the bunch.
The eponymous hopper at Sri Lankan restaurant Hoppers
Mestizo (Euston Square)
“Being from Texas, I love my Mexican food, and Mestizo is one of the best in London,” says Amy LeJune, who has her own travel-focused YouTube channel, Journeys with LeJune. “The owners are actually from Mexico, and it shows: the decor is properly Mexican, right down to the mariachi band that sometimes plays. It’s spread across two floors but always busy, so you’ll want to book. It’s hard to go wrong with any of the starters – I personally love the tamales, because they’re so hard to find anywhere outside the southern US, and the guacamole is a winner too. Their house special is the molcajete, served sizzling in a volcanic stone bowl with a side of tortillas to build your own wrap – the only other place I’ve had it is in Mexico itself. The enchiladas are also delicious; enchiladas de mole is my personal favourite. And don’t skip the killer margaritas! Next door is their own little grocery store, where I always stop in for their frozen tamales to take home, plus some of the best corn tortillas around.”
Bouchon Racine (Farringdon)
“My understanding is that bouchon is used in Lyon as an equivalent to bistro,” says Tony Hampton (aka my Dad and foodie mentor!). “So from that you can guess the restaurant is determinedly French in style and equally determinedly unpretentious. Bouchon Racine’s general ambience and location is also far removed from what you might expect from a restaurant recently voted by peers and food writers as the best in the country. The room is quite small – probably not more than 30 seats – up a steep and rather gloomy staircase over a pub, The Three Compasses, close to Farringdon underground station. Henry Harris’s menu changes regularly to reflect the seasons and daily availability, and is simply written on a blackboard. Absolutely my favourite sort of restaurant!”
St John (Farringdon)
Opening in the 1990s near Smithfield Market, St John Restaurant is widely credited as the pioneer of nose-to-tail dining in the UK. Chef Fergus Henderson takes a no-frills approach to the menu, which is reflected in the restaurant’s minimalist décor as well. I’ve visited a couple of times, and remember vividly the glorious decadence of scooping out wobbling bone marrow with a spoon, and the sheer spectacle of a whole roast suckling pig being carved – crispy skin and all – at the table. This is not an experience for the squeamish.
St John’s signature bone marrow
Kolamba East (Liverpool Street)
“After we got back from Sri Lanka, we developed this new obsession with Sri Lankan food,” Amy says. “Kolamba East is pretty central, between Liverpool Street and Shoreditch, which makes it a handy place to recommend. For starters, we had the papadums and the beetroot cutlets, both super tasty. For mains, we went for the jackfruit string hopper biryani with dhal, and the spiced aubergine on the side – all delicious, and genuinely just as good as we remembered from our time in Sri Lanka.”
Lorne (Victoria)
Just around the corner from Victoria station, Lorne is a small, unassuming neighbourhood spot that punches well above its size. The modern British menu relies on seasonal, well-sourced ingredients, and I still think about the dish I ate: a beautifully pink, rolled saddle of lamb, served with a meaty jus, summer greens and aubergine compote. It’s no surprise the wine list is a highlight too, given co-founder Katie Exton trained as a sommelier at the likes of The River Café and Chez Bruce before opening Lorne herself: expect a well-curated, sensibly priced selection of wines designed to work with the menu.
Modern British cuisine at Lorne
Bondi Green (Paddington)
Is Bondi Green really one of London’s best restaurants? Perhaps not, but it’s certainly one of the best around Paddington station – which counts for a lot if you’re coming from Heathrow or meeting friends who live west of the city. It’s an Aussie concept, with a canal-side terrace and a big, airy dining space – great for group meet-ups. My friends and I always enjoy their cocktails (they do a killer Pornstar Martini) and Aussie classics like chicken parm, but they have good pizzas and veggie options as well (miso aubergine in pizza form – yes please!). A good staple, suitable for many an occasion.
Killer cocktails at Bondi Green
London restaurants outside the city centre
Outside of the Circle Line is where London starts to really sprawl, and each neighbourhood has its own character. Anyone who’s lived outside Zone 1 knows that popping over for a cup of tea at a friend’s house can require well over an hour and multiple forms of public transport. As such, these recommendations represent a handful of favourites from Crouch End in the north to Surbiton in the southwest.
Paesan (Crouch End)
Time to give Amy LeJune a proper introduction, since she’s my expert when it comes to north London restaurants. We met in Amsterdam many years ago, but she’s been working in London for the past decade or so and travelling the world in between times. Do check out her YouTube channel, Journeys with LeJune, because she has a knack for finding the best spots from South Africa to Slovenia! And now, on with the eats…
“Paesan in Crouch End is a local Italian favourite of mine,” says Amy. “It’s small, but that just makes it feel more intimate and cosy. They make fresh pasta and the menu changes regularly – each dish notes which part of Italy it comes from, which I think is a nice touch. For starters, the calamari and the zucchini fritte are both really tasty, and every pasta I’ve had has been amazing – the Norma, black ink spaghettoni, and tortelli di zucca are all dishes I’d order again. There’s a lovely little roof terrace too, though you’ll need to book ahead given how small the space is, and a good wine selection to go with it all.”
Common Ground (Finsbury Park)
“Common Ground near Finsbury Park is one of my favourite brunch spots,” says Amy. “It’s a great place for vegetarians and vegans – I like that they do more than just your standard avocado on toast. There’s a lovely back garden, and we’ll happily wait in line rather than take a free seat inside just to sit out there, especially on a sunny day. The Latke Benny and the courgette and sweetcorn fritters are both excellent, and if you’re after something sweeter, the lemon curd French toast is delicious.”
Wandering Grapes (Camden Town)
In the always vibrant Camden Town, Wandering Grapes must be good because it’s where Amy celebrated her birthday recently. This French-Mediterranean wine bar on Inverness Street has a cosy, colourful feel and a serious wine list – over 200 labels, with a particular focus on natural and orange wines – paired with sharing plates like burrata, charcuterie and fresh pasta.
Polanco (Kensal Rise)
“Another Mexican restaurant, and this one’s in a neighbourhood where I used to live,” says Amy. “Polanco in Kensal Rise does every starter well, but the tuna tostada probably ranks at the top, and the guacamole is delicious too. The taco platter is my go-to: as pescatarians, we always order the Baja fish and the mushroom and cheese tacos. The beans, sour cream, queso fresco and tortilla chips side is also a favourite. They’ve got a huge tequila menu, and the Tommy’s margarita is excellent.”
The River Café (Hammersmith)
I’m lucky enough to have been taken to The River Café a few times by my parents, and I still remember the rosemary-roasted monkfish I ate on my very first visit in the 1990s. Since then, things have changed a lot, but the legacy of high-quality Italian cuisine left by Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers lives on. Signature dishes include chargrilled squid with chilli and wild rocket (on the menu for decades) and the famous chocolate Nemesis cake (which my Dad has recreated several times from The River Café Cookbook). The River Café is a veritable London icon that’s held a Michelin star since 1997, but it’s definitely worth the splurge.
The River Cafe’s signature chilli squid
Fladda Fish & Chips (Camberwell)
“If you’re like me, you’ll want to seek out the unapologetic local delicacies: fish and chips, jellied eels, steak and kidney pie, a full English breakfast and proper sausage rolls,” says Jeffrey Merrihue from Xtreme Foodies. “While many of the city’s international cuisines are quite easy on the system, traditional English food will hit you like a sledgehammer. For the best fish & chips, head south of the river to Camberwell. Fladda is a legendary London gem highly praised by purists for immense portions, incredibly fresh fish and perfectly crunchy batter. What a great way to be bludgeoned into bliss.”
Anchor & Hope (Waterloo)
Britain in general, and London specifically, is also the inventor of the modern gastropub: an informal public house, but with a high-end, chef-led menu. Jeffrey recommends the Anchor & Hope: “A frequently changing modern British menu is served in this no-reservations wooden-floored gastropub decorated with colourful art in Waterloo. Reservations are taken only for Sunday lunch, so expect to queue. Crowds form early for a chance at the dishes listed on the daily specials board, which might include a warm salad of snails and bacon, Middle White pork faggot and mash, grilled lemon sole with samphire, or fried ox cheek. It’s right in front of the Young Vic Theatre, making this a perfect night out.”
Khan’s (Brixton)
I lived in Brixton for two years before I moved to Amsterdam, and Khan’s is still hands-down my favourite curry house in London. It’s no-frills, cheap and cheerful, but the Indian and Punjabi food is a taste sensation. Having tried various curries over the years, nowadays I always order the chicken green masala – I’ve never found it anywhere else, except for Ravi’s in Dubai. Unlike many other Indian curries, the flavour comes from fragrant fresh herbs (coriander, basil and mint) rather than dried spices – giving it a totally different (and lighter) flavour profile. Khan’s also does takeaway and delivery, if you can’t make it to Brixton Water Lane.
The French Table (Surbiton)
According to my foodie friend Katriona Carter, “The French Table is arguably in suburbia, but I have not been to a better modern French restaurant in the UK (or possibly even in France). It should have a Michelin Star but I don’t think the owners are into all that fuss! It counts as fine dining but there’s no ponce, plus the service is incredibly friendly. The menu is totally delicious and pretty reasonable: think Limousin veal tartare in truffle vinaigrette, or Cornish stone bass with Palourde clams. And a chilli-chocolate ganache with a Thai curry ice cream, toasted coconut and fresh mango – absolutely to die for!”
